Starting problems now it's cold again.....
Discussion
Scrooloose said:
simonsparrow said:
what are the symptoms?
Everthing as normal.
Except the bugger won't start.
I'm convinced that it's battery related, but she wouldn't start with the booster attached either
Gonna fit a new battery this weekend, see what happens
If by "everything as normal" you mean it turns over with the starter but just doesn't start up, then I'd suspect the battery (especially as battery capacity is degraded by cold weather)
I'd also examine the coil packs for cracking and moisture ingress if a (presumed good) supply still won't start it (especially as the colder weather would increase condensation).
Why would changing the battery help if your car will not start with the booster attached? If the car will only start with the booster attached, then I'd suggest your battery is giving up (not capable of maintaining the necessary voltage under starting load). If your car will not fire up with or without the booster attached that suggests either a fuel issue (too much or not enough) or a poor or lacking spark. I'd have a look at the condition of the plugs after attempting to start your car and also check the HT leads and coil packs.
Steve.
Steve.
You wont start the car off one of those piddly booster things alone. Judging by the weight of them, I reckon they've got a battery in them of less than 10amps, and got only knows what cranking capacity.
They might help out a battery, that's got a slightly low voltage, but they'll have absolutely no effect whatsoever on a battery with knackered cells.
In fact if the cells are dried out, you'll probably be sending a dead short back up the booster.
ETA Steve, I reckon the booster is helping the battery when it's cells are warm, but not helping it enough when the cells are cold.
Think touching your tongue on a dead 9 volt battery, then warming the battery & retesting.
Did anyone else have parents who were too tight to buy rechargeables ?
They might help out a battery, that's got a slightly low voltage, but they'll have absolutely no effect whatsoever on a battery with knackered cells.
In fact if the cells are dried out, you'll probably be sending a dead short back up the booster.
ETA Steve, I reckon the booster is helping the battery when it's cells are warm, but not helping it enough when the cells are cold.
Think touching your tongue on a dead 9 volt battery, then warming the battery & retesting.
Did anyone else have parents who were too tight to buy rechargeables ?
Edited by RUSSELLM on Wednesday 24th January 14:16
Makes sense. Perhaps worth trying starting with jumper cables connected to a decent battery to test the theory. We have a calcium battery in Mrs_T's car, which claims 590 cranking amps, whatever it's not failed to start the Cerb yet when the battery's died. BTW, I'm not having a dig at anyone who's suggested the battery option, I'm just trying to think the problem through before quite a few quid is spent on a new battery only to find the problem persists.
Cheers,
Steve.
Cheers,
Steve.
Edited by Steve_T on Wednesday 24th January 14:27
Funny how you can trick yourself into assuming it isn't the battery, I did this. Not saying this is the case for you but I'm sure this tale has affected many a Cerb owner.
Before Christmas, car wouldn't start, would spin for ages until the battery died
. On trickle chargers every night, next day i would open the car hoping it would work
.
It got worse and worse. So there is me thinking new alternator + major work = ££s - i EVEN considered getting the multimeter out.
I thought in the end - eff this - and got a new battery from Halfords £80 squids down, but the Cerb has started on the button every single time since. Haven't even used the charger. Best £80 - of the several thousand - i spent over Christmas.
.
Before Christmas, car wouldn't start, would spin for ages until the battery died
. On trickle chargers every night, next day i would open the car hoping it would work. It got worse and worse. So there is me thinking new alternator + major work = ££s - i EVEN considered getting the multimeter out.
I thought in the end - eff this - and got a new battery from Halfords £80 squids down, but the Cerb has started on the button every single time since. Haven't even used the charger. Best £80 - of the several thousand - i spent over Christmas.
. FWIW, I sell lots of alarm batteries at work, and all the multimeter will tell you is the voltage, which is frequently OK, it's the amperage that dies before the voltage.
We have the test meters from "ACT", all be it I need a new one, and their meter, checks the ambient temperature, puts the battery under a load, and gives you the voltage & more importantly the amperage of the battery.
We have the test meters from "ACT", all be it I need a new one, and their meter, checks the ambient temperature, puts the battery under a load, and gives you the voltage & more importantly the amperage of the battery.
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