Looking for a headlight & MOT blues
Discussion
Took the 350i down to Towerview for my annual visit and it's failed on rusty reflector, knackered front shocks, and 2 chassis cracks around the rear trailing arm mounts.
Mark dug out a couple of 2nd hand adjustable spax for me which I will fit this weekend.
Anyone know where to get a new headlight? I seem to remember them being off a landrover. When I changed them on my last Wedge a few years back I had to change the bowls as well. Is this still the case or has anyone got a decent one knocking around spare?
I'm going to leave the welding to Towerview - I don't trust my skills with my old arc welder for this!
Mark dug out a couple of 2nd hand adjustable spax for me which I will fit this weekend.
Anyone know where to get a new headlight? I seem to remember them being off a landrover. When I changed them on my last Wedge a few years back I had to change the bowls as well. Is this still the case or has anyone got a decent one knocking around spare?
I'm going to leave the welding to Towerview - I don't trust my skills with my old arc welder for this!
at www.limora.com you will get a headlamp for 12,-€!!!
30,-pound....daylight robbery!!!
towerview service:
wanted to order some trailing arm stay bars:
for that price i can let 4pcs fabricate here.
30,-pound....daylight robbery!!!
towerview service:
wanted to order some trailing arm stay bars:
for that price i can let 4pcs fabricate here.
Light units are generic 7inch lights used on most vehicles from the last quater of the last century. AC Cobra, Landrover, MGB, Mini, X1/9, Z.. no can't think of one beginning with Z but you get the point, hundreds of em......
Lucas, Wipac, Hella, Cibie, and I'm sure just about every other lighting manufacturer in existence have made them.
Available as a sealed beam unit or accepting an H4 halogen bulb.
I had some Lucas ones in my Mini which I replaced with Cibies they gave fantastic light and a crisp cut off when dipped. These got transferred to my next car (X1/9) and would have been kept for the TVR but unfortunately the ravages of time (and tin worm) got the better of them.
When I wanted better lights for the Wedge I looked out for Cibies again but eventually settled for some Wipac ones which are really quite good. I doubt the lens design is as good as the Cibie unit but they have the advantage that the reflector is plastic so will never rust. Light output was much improved over the old Hella units too. If you can get ones that don't have a sidelight bulb aperture as this tends to let water in when the pods are down (inverted) and I am sure this is why my trusty Cibies rusted away!
Where I got my Wipacs from
www.s-v-c.co.uk/SVCHEADLIGHTS.HTM
HTH
Leo
Lucas, Wipac, Hella, Cibie, and I'm sure just about every other lighting manufacturer in existence have made them.
Available as a sealed beam unit or accepting an H4 halogen bulb.
I had some Lucas ones in my Mini which I replaced with Cibies they gave fantastic light and a crisp cut off when dipped. These got transferred to my next car (X1/9) and would have been kept for the TVR but unfortunately the ravages of time (and tin worm) got the better of them.
When I wanted better lights for the Wedge I looked out for Cibies again but eventually settled for some Wipac ones which are really quite good. I doubt the lens design is as good as the Cibie unit but they have the advantage that the reflector is plastic so will never rust. Light output was much improved over the old Hella units too. If you can get ones that don't have a sidelight bulb aperture as this tends to let water in when the pods are down (inverted) and I am sure this is why my trusty Cibies rusted away!
Where I got my Wipacs from
www.s-v-c.co.uk/SVCHEADLIGHTS.HTM
HTH
Leo
Thanks for the info guys, a not so good wedge day is turning into a very bad wedge day.
Driving home the clutch pedal went to the floor with no pressure and when I released it it has gone rock solid in th up position. When I first got the car it did this and it ended up being the clutch fork/pivot - arrrghhhhh
Drove it home on the starter motor and stuck it in the garage........
Driving home the clutch pedal went to the floor with no pressure and when I released it it has gone rock solid in th up position. When I first got the car it did this and it ended up being the clutch fork/pivot - arrrghhhhh
Drove it home on the starter motor and stuck it in the garage........
danny hoffman said:
Thanks for the info guys, a not so good wedge day is turning into a very bad wedge day.
Driving home the clutch pedal went to the floor with no pressure and when I released it it has gone rock solid in th up position. When I first got the car it did this and it ended up being the clutch fork/pivot - arrrghhhhh
Drove it home on the starter motor and stuck it in the garage........
Driving home the clutch pedal went to the floor with no pressure and when I released it it has gone rock solid in th up position. When I first got the car it did this and it ended up being the clutch fork/pivot - arrrghhhhh
Drove it home on the starter motor and stuck it in the garage........
Clutch fork pivot: I had this, and ended up making and 'additional' access hole at the bottom of the bellhousing. Total repair can be done in less than half a day. Still need to make a plate to cover it back up again.....
Good luck.
Rob
Bought a couple of headlamps from Neil at tvrcarparts - £42 + vat
Chassis cracks they reckon a couple of hours a side, one was already patched when I bought the car 8 years ago, but Mark said he would sleave it properly. I'll have a look whist I'm under it this weekend and take some before photos if anyone is interested.
Not sure about hacking about the bellhousing (nice bit of lateral thinking though). I am hoping I can move the gearbox back far enough to get access to the release arm.
Thx for the offer Ian - I could drive up long as there aren't too many stops
Chassis cracks they reckon a couple of hours a side, one was already patched when I bought the car 8 years ago, but Mark said he would sleave it properly. I'll have a look whist I'm under it this weekend and take some before photos if anyone is interested.
Not sure about hacking about the bellhousing (nice bit of lateral thinking though). I am hoping I can move the gearbox back far enough to get access to the release arm.
Thx for the offer Ian - I could drive up long as there aren't too many stops
I nearly talked myself into Rob's "cutting an additional access hole" in the bell housing, but when I took off the slave cylinder the fork is pushed right back. When the fork/pivot went last time the fork was jammed forward. I am guessing that release bearing has broken (it's plastic from memory).
I looked at trying to pull the gearbox back but there doesn't appear to be enough clearance so have started to pull the engine out. Not having a hoist I'll be balancing it on the trusty trolley jack
I looked at trying to pull the gearbox back but there doesn't appear to be enough clearance so have started to pull the engine out. Not having a hoist I'll be balancing it on the trusty trolley jack
danny hoffman said:
I looked at trying to pull the gearbox back but there doesn't appear to be enough clearance so have started to pull the engine out. Not having a hoist I'll be balancing it on the trusty trolley jack
Not teaching egg-sucking, but put a board under the sump to stop the jack from crushing it...
Board even has a bit of carpet tacked to it!
Engines nearly out, and I think I can now see what the problem is. The release bearing appears to have spun 90 degress so that the lugs don't engage with the slipper pads anymore leaving the fork free to move back and forth
I can't see what has broken to allow it to spin though yet.
Picture in the Haynes manual tells me sod all
Engines nearly out, and I think I can now see what the problem is. The release bearing appears to have spun 90 degress so that the lugs don't engage with the slipper pads anymore leaving the fork free to move back and forth
I can't see what has broken to allow it to spin though yet.
Picture in the Haynes manual tells me sod all
Based on what I have seen during my clutch fix, expect that the spring holding the fork to the pivot probably became disconnected. Otherwise there is no space for the slip pads to come out of the bearing holder.
Bending of the fork could perhaps do it, but think that is unlikely. Although unlikely things seem to happen with our wedges as normal, and unfortenately you seem to experience a lot in one go...
Rob
Bending of the fork could perhaps do it, but think that is unlikely. Although unlikely things seem to happen with our wedges as normal, and unfortenately you seem to experience a lot in one go...
Rob
The release bearing seems to just be prevented from spinning by slipper pads holding it on a couple of flats on the plastic casing. Either the clutch fork has spread or the plastic has worn away.
The gap between the slippers on the fork is 43mm and the flats on the bearing are 42mm.
My local motor factor didn't have a release bearing so has anyone got new ones they can measure so I can work out whether to change the fork as well. I am going to change the bearing as it is possible it jammed under load and forced it self out of the fork.
The gap between the slippers on the fork is 43mm and the flats on the bearing are 42mm.
My local motor factor didn't have a release bearing so has anyone got new ones they can measure so I can work out whether to change the fork as well. I am going to change the bearing as it is possible it jammed under load and forced it self out of the fork.
Got the new bearing today and it certainly has a bit more meat on it the the old one. There still was a fair amount of play (about 1mm) so I have fitted a couple of washers behind the slipper pads to take up the slack. It still moves freely so hopefully will prevent the same thing happening again.
The old bearing feels fine but I suppose it must have been seizing up under load.
Anyway the engines back in, just needs connecting up.
New headlamps don;t fit though - may need to get new bowls as well
The old bearing feels fine but I suppose it must have been seizing up under load.
Anyway the engines back in, just needs connecting up.
New headlamps don;t fit though - may need to get new bowls as well
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