changing radiator, maybe aluminium one?

[danfrith]

Hi Guys, in the process of changing radiator. Local company said they could re-furb it for me. Now ive spent a while getting to it, so now im wondering if i should replace it for an aluminium radiator? has anyone done this did it improve system? ive find one company that sells one, does anyone know who else sells them?

any feed back would be geat.

cheers

Dan

[byker28i]

I've seen them somewqhere but can't find them now. Racetech do normal ones:
www.racetechdirect.co.uk/product-subsection.asp?MakeID=1&ModelID=6&CATID=8&SUBCATID=63

[byker28i]

Ah found it - Leven Tech in their news section.

Leven said:

RADIATORS

For all Griffith, Chimaera and Cerbera cars, we can offer 2 options.

1) A coventional steel/brass all metal re-cored radiator with the largest core possible in the standard frame size. These represent very good value. Please note they are normally sold on an exchange basis.

2) An all alloy racing style radiator offering improved cooling. This unit is suppled with the fan shrouds already fitted as part of the radiator. It looks the part and works as well as it looks. Essential for the Griffith, ideal on th Chimaera and Cerbera and especially for trips abroad to hotter climates or track days.

Both the above radiators incorporate the provision for the otter switch in the side tank (supplied with plug if not required). We can supply the radiators or offer a fitting service if required.

[danfrith]

great thanks is that leven tech in basildon?

cheers

[byker28i]

Oh and Act

www.actproducts.co.uk/hoses.php

AR002 TVR Griffith/Chimaera/Cerbera, Built by RADTEC special offer price £375.00

Just google leven tvr for their address

Cheers

[Tangoed]

Its not worth putting an Ali rad in unless your going to do serious mileage, you wont get the benefit. Get your original one refurbished it will cost about £100.00. The old rads get clogged up in side after a number of years and so aren't as efficient, at best old rads work on about 60-70% efficiency. Change the rad and there will be a big difference in the temp/cooling.

[danfrith]

main reason for changing rad is because it is broken! can be fixed, but at the same time, would be nice to sit in traffic with out the worry of over heating, mine does like to creep up to 110 and then will come back down however i laptop gives a reading 10 degrees lower than the car sensor! but..... think its a good idea to get the current rad fixed first at least!

cheers

[brummiewedge]

It wont run cooler in traffic just because its alloy, it has to have air passing through it to be more effective, so might be a little better once the fans kick in but thats it. More cores, increasing surface area in any material will have a better heat exchanging effect.

[byker28i]

I thought the alloy radiators transfereed the heat better, hence for the same number of cores were more efficient at dispersing heat. Or have I been listening to the marketing talk too much?

[Tangoed]

They are more efficient, but at three times the price of a recon. A manual switch on the fans would be a better way of saving money.

[brummiewedge]

Only when the air is flowing over the cores will it become more efficient, so when just sat there in traffic with stagnent air around it there will be hardly if any differance.

[edhorne]

HI Dan

I had my original recored. It is a Range Rover core with TVR's own end plates.

I replaced my coolant pipes with ACT ones and had to reomve the water temp gauge sender. I took the opportunity to reroute the capillary away from the exhaust manifold and over the inlet manifold where it is not affected by the heat from the exhaust. My gauge now reads almost exactly the same as the ECU now.

Overall the temperature is much more stable and rock solid at 80degC on the motorway tonight only rising to around 90 through the traffic. Obviously its a cold night.

Cheers

Ed

[DanFrith]

cheers ed, i will e-mail u, sounds like you have done what i need to do now!

many thanks

Dan

[DanFrith]

hi ed, just noticed you dont receive e-mails.

can you clarify what this part is i need, its has 2 sensors connected to it!

http://ph.uncle-dave.co.uk/upload/ima

cheers

Dan

[byker28i]

Tangoed said:

They are more efficient, but at three times the price of a recon. A manual switch on the fans would be a better way of saving money.

brummiewedge said:

Only when the air is flowing over the cores will it become more efficient, so when just sat there in traffic with stagnent air around it there will be hardly if any differance.

Ah thanks

[Tangoed]

The sensor on the left of the picture is for the temp gauge and the one on the right is your stat for the fans basically.

[Tangoed]

Looking at Edhorne's reply, yes the cores are off Range rovers/Land Rovers. But the ends are different so you can't just put one of theres in.

[danfrith]

hi, its not the actual senors i need. its the steel part the connectors etc are on, the rusty bit.

thanks

Dan

[Scrooloose]

both the above radiators incorporate the provision for the otter switch in the side tank (supplied with plug if not required). We can supply the radiators or offer a fitting service if required.



What's an otter switch? Does it have anything to do with the badger flange?

[whatever]

Scrooloose said:

both the above radiators incorporate the provision for the otter switch in the side tank (supplied with plug if not required). We can supply the radiators or offer a fitting service if required.



What's an otter switch? Does it have anything to do with the badger flange?

It is, iirc, the thermostatic switch which controls the rad fan operation on the Griff / Chim.

It switches the fans on when it gets 'otter and 'otter (best said in a Lancashire accent).