I can't get it off - 400SE centre console
Discussion
I've got a dodgy heater switch and the fuel guage comes and goes and the clock light doesn't work. So I need to get behind the centre console.
I have undone the two M10 nuts roughly level with the radio and removed them and the penny washers, but it just doesn't want to come out.
The bottom will shift by almost a centimetre but the top seems to be stuck at around where the air vents are. Are there any other nuts and bolts? I hope not cos I can't get my hand up that far.
The other weird thing is that the beading that goes around the centre console (which I think is attached to the wood) is stuck to the leather along the top edge. So even if I get it out it'll have to swivel upwards and be supported while I work on the electrics. Does this sound familiar?
I have undone the two M10 nuts roughly level with the radio and removed them and the penny washers, but it just doesn't want to come out.
The bottom will shift by almost a centimetre but the top seems to be stuck at around where the air vents are. Are there any other nuts and bolts? I hope not cos I can't get my hand up that far.
The other weird thing is that the beading that goes around the centre console (which I think is attached to the wood) is stuck to the leather along the top edge. So even if I get it out it'll have to swivel upwards and be supported while I work on the electrics. Does this sound familiar?
Mine came out after removing the radio and vents, mirror switch etc.. The veneer panel was lifted out before the plate holding the switches and clocks. Then the plate has the vent controls bolted to it and they need to be undone from memory. Fiddley but not hard. Sure there were some more fixings but all apparent when the veneer is shifted out........ CAREFULLY, don't want to crack it do you
My beading fits to the veneer and comes out with it.
My beading fits to the veneer and comes out with it.
Edited by jmorgan on Saturday 27th January 17:09
adam quantrill said:
I see what you mean - but the air vents on mine are innies - behind the veneer.
I know I don't want to pull too hard - I have had bad experiences with cracking on 350i's.
Can anyone else confirm that it's just two bolts for the veneer bit?
I know I don't want to pull too hard - I have had bad experiences with cracking on 350i's.
Can anyone else confirm that it's just two bolts for the veneer bit?
That sounds odd, on my 400 the vents need to come out before you can remove the veneer panel. They can be quite a tight fit if not removed for a while. Should only be 2 bolts fixed to the rear of the veneer panel - IIRC they are M5 or M6, not M10 - thats huge. Just take of the nuts from the rear.
7.
Sorry - 10mm nuts, not M10!! I'll take another look at the vents.
OK - as you can see, they are behind the veneer panel. I am wondering if the beading round the edge has got stuck to the leathercloth over time, and needs a thin metal blade worked all around the edge with some vaseline to lube it up and get it slipping in and out smoothly.
OK - as you can see, they are behind the veneer panel. I am wondering if the beading round the edge has got stuck to the leathercloth over time, and needs a thin metal blade worked all around the edge with some vaseline to lube it up and get it slipping in and out smoothly.
Edited by adam quantrill on Saturday 27th January 19:21
All I can say is mine is free. I haven't even bolted the veneer back in as its such a tight fit with the beading. I will take pics next time I do it for future ref.
I did notice that my vents would appear to fit either side but didn't look right under the veneer. I assumed that they are to fit outside.
I did notice that my vents would appear to fit either side but didn't look right under the veneer. I assumed that they are to fit outside.
Phew - success at last! I had to sneak a pallet knife out of the kitchen, and ease it down on the outside of the beading on both sides, aided with some vaseline, then smuggle the pallet knife back into the kitchen drawer! There was definitely some adhesive in there as well - maybe to stop creaking etc.
Unfortunately the fact that the beading is stuck to the car at the top means that it sort of swivels up - but won't clear the handbrake. Lets see if there is enough room to get the inside gubbins out.
Unfortunately the fact that the beading is stuck to the car at the top means that it sort of swivels up - but won't clear the handbrake. Lets see if there is enough room to get the inside gubbins out.
Yeah I resisted getting the chainsaw out and teased it away with a screwdriver. Then I put some thick copper wire down the beading so it would stay in place when replaced on the dash.
I found a bad soldering job inside the petrol gauge which explained the zero reading, however having sorted that in now reads full! I wonder if I cocked something up - there's about half a tank. The sender is working fine (I read it with an ohmmeter).
Anyway I fixed the heater switch - one of the spring-loaded thingamies had snapped, so I put a mini self-tapper in there. And the clock bulb actually works - it just seems very dim. Perhaps a green LED would put out more light?
P.S. Does anyone know if there's a wiring diagram for the 400SE (around '89 would be best) as it seems different to the 350i diagram I have.
I found a bad soldering job inside the petrol gauge which explained the zero reading, however having sorted that in now reads full! I wonder if I cocked something up - there's about half a tank. The sender is working fine (I read it with an ohmmeter).
Anyway I fixed the heater switch - one of the spring-loaded thingamies had snapped, so I put a mini self-tapper in there. And the clock bulb actually works - it just seems very dim. Perhaps a green LED would put out more light?
P.S. Does anyone know if there's a wiring diagram for the 400SE (around '89 would be best) as it seems different to the 350i diagram I have.
Edited by adam quantrill on Sunday 28th January 23:03
adam quantrill said:
I found a bad soldering job inside the petrol gauge which explained the zero reading, however having sorted that in now reads full! I wonder if I cocked something up - there's about half a tank. The sender is working fine (I read it with an ohmmeter).
Edited by adam quantrill on Sunday 28th January 23:03
I had the same problem with my 400se - readinf full all the time. The wiring on the fuel gauge was wrong. Basically, 3 wires on the fuel gauge (can't remember colours).
Top and bottom swapped, now works fine.
If you don't sort it, let me know and I'll have a look at which colour wire should go where.
L33.
adam quantrill said:
P.S. Does anyone know if there's a wiring diagram for the 400SE (around '89 would be best) as it seems different to the 350i diagram I have.
Adam I have an original diagram(s), one for the injection system and one for the other wiring. email me you details and I will post you a copy, as soon as I can find an A3 copier.
badredwedge said:
adam quantrill said:
P.S. Does anyone know if there's a wiring diagram for the 400SE (around '89 would be best) as it seems different to the 350i diagram I have.
Adam I have an original diagram(s), one for the injection system and one for the other wiring. email me you details and I will post you a copy, as soon as I can find an A3 copier.
Darren, YHM.
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