Zetec demist system
Zetec demist system
Author
Discussion

rtasker

Original Poster:

36 posts

257 months

Saturday 27th January 2007
quotequote all
Hi,
I was wondering if anyone could offer some advice on getting the demist system on my Fisher Fury to work, as this part of my build is leading me towards despair.

I have a 2 litre Zetec engine and am using the Stafford Vehicle Components 'Norway' heater unit. This is very agricultural in appearace, consisting of nothing more than a matrix in a steel box with an electric fan and some air ducts. There are no control valves, so coolant should always be free to flow through the unit.

The problem is that when I run the engine, no heat at all reaches the matrix. I have run the engine up to full operating temperature and can feel lots of heat in the radiator, but the heater unit matrix remains stone cold.

I have filled the cooling system through a bleed on the matrix inlet to ensure that the matrix is full of water. I have tried disconnecting the supply and return pipe and blown though them to ensure the matrix is not blocked.

Finally, this morning I fitted a section of clear tubing in the matrix feed pipe. With the cooling system filled, an air pocket remained in this pipe. By raising this section of the pipe slightly, it was possible to create a large bubble separating the water on the thermostat housing side from the water on the matrix side. I then fired up the engine and could see that no water is flowing through this pipe. Revving the engine produced a little pressure surge but definitely no flow.

So has anybody else experienced this kind of problem, and how did you overcome it? Does it sound like there could be a fault with the thermostat housing? A fault with the water pump maybe (which is a new unit, bought to spin in the right direction)? Can't think what else it could be. Any other ideas?

Any help would be very much appreciated.





kevp

587 posts

275 months

Saturday 27th January 2007
quotequote all
I had similar problem with my Zetec. I plumbed it up the way I thought it should go, not having seen an instalation.
The take off to the heater comes from the engine stat (so the heater will work if engine not up to temp). The return T's into the bottom rad hose just before the engine pump.

Does this help?

Mine is also a 2l, but I did not change the pump - was advised by some engine people (Raceline?) that it wasnt nesassery. I have run it for 2 years in a westfield & 2 in a Stylus with no overheat problems.


Edited by kevp on Saturday 27th January 16:44

rtasker

Original Poster:

36 posts

257 months

Saturday 27th January 2007
quotequote all
Interesting. My plumbing is set up a bit different to this. The heater is connected to either side of the thermostat housing. The coolant expansion tank feeds the T-junction near the water pump. It was actually set up like this by Fisher when I had them do some work for me, but perhaps this is the problem.

The thermostat housing has three connections:
A big pipe, which on my car connects straight to the top of the radiator.
A smaller (16mm) pipe on the same side (the exhaust side of the engine). On my car this receives the return flow from the heater.
Another 16mm pipe on the other side. On my car, this feeds the heater.

Which of these pipes feeds your heater, and does youe expansion tank connect to the other?

Richard

gefopsman

260 posts

263 months

Saturday 27th January 2007
quotequote all
Richard,

Your plumbing is incorrect. All three pipes from the thermostat housing are outlets. None is for incoming. The way your's is pipes, both feeds will be pushing against each other so you will have no flow through your engine until the thermostat opens and them everything will go through the top hose to the rad.

You should have three outlets. Big top hose. 19mm outlet on same side as top hose and 16m outlet on inlet side.

Top hose goes to rad.

19mm can either plumb into top hose or bottom hose. Bottom will warm up quicker as it will feed around the engine but not through the rad. Top will feed through the rad at a restricted volume so will take longer to warm up.

16mm should feed through your heater and them return back into bottom hose. You can tee from this hose into your expansion tank if you wish.

I personally have both going to the bottom hose as I want it to warm up quickly. IIRC there is a diagram on the Westfield site.

Try re-piping and it should sort your problem.

rtasker

Original Poster:

36 posts

257 months

Sunday 28th January 2007
quotequote all
Thanks very much for that, I can see a way forward now. I was considering replacing the heater with an electric unit, so it's quite a relief to find a solution which avoids this.

steve_d

13,801 posts

282 months

Sunday 28th January 2007
quotequote all
When you get it working come back and talk about controls. You may find that the unit has no way of shutting off the air flow so throughout the summer you will be cooking. You should consider a simple inline water valve.

Steve

rtasker

Original Poster:

36 posts

257 months

Monday 29th January 2007
quotequote all
Thanks, sounds like a good idea.

stevebubs

47 posts

289 months

Thursday 8th February 2007
quotequote all
Omega has what looks to be a suitable valve....located at the back left of the engine bay under the scuttle...

rtasker

Original Poster:

36 posts

257 months

Monday 12th February 2007
quotequote all
Got it working this weekend so thanks to all who helped. I rerouted the plumbing as suggested, then ran the engine for a while and the heater matrix was soon too hot to touch.

Next thing is that I am interested in fitting some kind of valve. The pipes supplying the unit have a 16mm bore. Any ideas where I might find something suitable to fit?

Who are 'Omega'? I did a ggogle search but couldn't find anything likely.

Graham-P

1,548 posts

270 months

Monday 12th February 2007
quotequote all
If you go to www.nfauto.co.uk (Car Builders Solutions)they have a simple plastic in line valve, either run the hose behind a panel that you can reach whilst driving or a brass valve that can be remote located and operated via a choke cable affair (had this in the Ultima) but I changed it to an electronic valve out of a Fiesta, I'm now in the process of trying to get it to work via a 'pot' to vary the temp.
I think Stevebubs was talking about the car Vauxhall Omega.

Graham