Changing pads on GT3 MKII
Discussion
Changing pads is easy.
For fronts Jack car up using front jacking point. Do one side at a time. Starting with driver side turn steering wheel hard to the left, this makes it easier to get to the pads. Undo retaining bolt, if possible use 3/8inch drive ratchet and the corect size socket. The retaining pin has a hexagonal bolt head on the inside. Oce undone remove the blt head part of the pin and using abrake pad punch, punch pin out from the inside to the outside of the caliper. The spring plate will also flick off at this stage. I would clean the spring plate at this stage with a wire brush. Next get a pair of adjustable boiler/tank pliers - the one's with the stepped openning jaws. Place the jaws of the pliers(closed) in between the two upright lugs on the brake pads and open the jaws outwards, as you do the pads will be prised apart and away from the disc surface. You should now be able to pull the pads up and out from the caliper. If they are stuck then you may have the anti squeel shims on the back. These can be prised off when in situ and tossed away. IMHO they are a pain in the arse. If you still have the wear indicators attached to the pads snip the ends off and tie the wires together. IMHO if you care for your car you won't be needing the indicators again as you'll monitor your own pads using you eyes. By tieing the wires together you maintain the elctric circuit and don't trigger the low brake disc warning light - so you need to watch your pads in future. Alternatively you can fit new wear indicators if you've got money to waste. Make sure pistons are firmly back in the calipers before fitting new pads. Best way to do this is to use backing plate of one of the old pads, if necessary remove as much of the old pad wear surface as possible with a bolster and hammer. stick old back plate in where pad is to go and lever back with a smallpiece of wood/screwdriver/spanner or whatever else takes you fancy. Put some copper slip on weach o the pad backing plates and insert. You may need to push the pistons back again for the second pad after fitting the 1st pad. Once pads are in place, reinsert retaining pin, not forgetting to place the retaining spring on top of pads/over the disc - you may need a big screwdriver to do this. Tap retaining pin home until it won't go any further. Refix the end of the retaing pin with the bolt head on until it is tight. Refix wheel an don't forget to torque the lug nuts after wheel is back on the ground. Move to the passenger side and repeat the process.
The rear replacement is very similar except that the pad retaining pin has a split pin on the end to stop it moving, as opposed to a nut head as on the front calipers.
Golden rule number one. When finished, sit in car and turn the engine on. Pump the brakes like buggery until the new pads meet the disc. Failure to do this may well result in a sever brown trouser moment when you venture out onto the highway and come to apply the brakes for the first time.
Good luck, it really is a piece of piss....
For fronts Jack car up using front jacking point. Do one side at a time. Starting with driver side turn steering wheel hard to the left, this makes it easier to get to the pads. Undo retaining bolt, if possible use 3/8inch drive ratchet and the corect size socket. The retaining pin has a hexagonal bolt head on the inside. Oce undone remove the blt head part of the pin and using abrake pad punch, punch pin out from the inside to the outside of the caliper. The spring plate will also flick off at this stage. I would clean the spring plate at this stage with a wire brush. Next get a pair of adjustable boiler/tank pliers - the one's with the stepped openning jaws. Place the jaws of the pliers(closed) in between the two upright lugs on the brake pads and open the jaws outwards, as you do the pads will be prised apart and away from the disc surface. You should now be able to pull the pads up and out from the caliper. If they are stuck then you may have the anti squeel shims on the back. These can be prised off when in situ and tossed away. IMHO they are a pain in the arse. If you still have the wear indicators attached to the pads snip the ends off and tie the wires together. IMHO if you care for your car you won't be needing the indicators again as you'll monitor your own pads using you eyes. By tieing the wires together you maintain the elctric circuit and don't trigger the low brake disc warning light - so you need to watch your pads in future. Alternatively you can fit new wear indicators if you've got money to waste. Make sure pistons are firmly back in the calipers before fitting new pads. Best way to do this is to use backing plate of one of the old pads, if necessary remove as much of the old pad wear surface as possible with a bolster and hammer. stick old back plate in where pad is to go and lever back with a smallpiece of wood/screwdriver/spanner or whatever else takes you fancy. Put some copper slip on weach o the pad backing plates and insert. You may need to push the pistons back again for the second pad after fitting the 1st pad. Once pads are in place, reinsert retaining pin, not forgetting to place the retaining spring on top of pads/over the disc - you may need a big screwdriver to do this. Tap retaining pin home until it won't go any further. Refix the end of the retaing pin with the bolt head on until it is tight. Refix wheel an don't forget to torque the lug nuts after wheel is back on the ground. Move to the passenger side and repeat the process.
The rear replacement is very similar except that the pad retaining pin has a split pin on the end to stop it moving, as opposed to a nut head as on the front calipers.
Golden rule number one. When finished, sit in car and turn the engine on. Pump the brakes like buggery until the new pads meet the disc. Failure to do this may well result in a sever brown trouser moment when you venture out onto the highway and come to apply the brakes for the first time.
Good luck, it really is a piece of piss....
Edited by paulburrell on Sunday 28th January 16:23
Edited by paulburrell on Sunday 28th January 16:23
Worthwhile removing the top off the brake master cylinder to ensure someone hasn't topped the brake fluid level up when the pads were low too. Failure to do this can result in the brake fluid squirting all over the place under the bonnet.
I have mixed feelings about throwing the anti squeal (stickies) away, agreed they're a rip off financially, but any car (especially an expensive one like a Porsche) sound hideous if it rolls to halt with its brakes squealing like a bus !
If you have time on your hands I'm sure the existing anti squeal shims could be cleaned up and re-used with the aid of some double sided tape ?
I have mixed feelings about throwing the anti squeal (stickies) away, agreed they're a rip off financially, but any car (especially an expensive one like a Porsche) sound hideous if it rolls to halt with its brakes squealing like a bus !
If you have time on your hands I'm sure the existing anti squeal shims could be cleaned up and re-used with the aid of some double sided tape ?
Jason
Changing the pads is a really easy job, believe me, once you've done it once you'll realise that you never need pay a garage to do it ever again. Not only that, but you can drive the car safe in the knowledge that if you've done the brakes, the garages 17 year old YTS apprentice hasn't. I know which alternative makes me sleep more comfortably at night.
Changing the pads is a really easy job, believe me, once you've done it once you'll realise that you never need pay a garage to do it ever again. Not only that, but you can drive the car safe in the knowledge that if you've done the brakes, the garages 17 year old YTS apprentice hasn't. I know which alternative makes me sleep more comfortably at night.
paulburrell said:
Slippy
I have MK1 rattler Alcons on my GT3 and so any squealing noise is drowned out by the coffee grinding sound coming from up front. Seriously though, I use Wurth spray on copper slip and my RS29 pads never squeal at all.
Steve
I have MK1 rattler Alcons on my GT3 and so any squealing noise is drowned out by the coffee grinding sound coming from up front. Seriously though, I use Wurth spray on copper slip and my RS29 pads never squeal at all.
Steve
Good point Paul.
My hatred of squealing brakes stems from my first 964 RS having Pagids fitted, which sqeaked like b
d all the time on the road. I hated them ! Another option for getting the pads/pistons back into the caliper is to use the adjustable grips you mentioned, but to use them on the inner face of the pads and the outside of the calliper. If you do do this make sure you use a piece of thick rubber or plywood to protect the paint finish to the outside of the caliper.
slippydiff said:
[quote=paulburrell]Slippy
I have MK1 rattler Alcons on my GT3 and so any squealing noise is drowned out by the coffee grinding sound coming from up front. Seriously though, I use Wurth spray on copper slip and my RS29 pads never squeal at all.
Steve
I have MK1 rattler Alcons on my GT3 and so any squealing noise is drowned out by the coffee grinding sound coming from up front. Seriously though, I use Wurth spray on copper slip and my RS29 pads never squeal at all.
Steve
Good point Paul.
My hatred of squealing brakes stems from my first 964 RS having Pagids fitted, which sqeaked like b
d all the time on the road. I hated them ! Slippy
I bet they were the Pagid oranges were they? Mine used to make a hell of a din with oranges fitted.
Steve
the calipers in the photos on this FAQ are nearly identical to the 911 calipers and helped me first time.
www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel23.shtml
Should help with Steve's excellent write up.
www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel23.shtml
Should help with Steve's excellent write up.
sapltagain said:
Oh, and i have the brembos as well, so no need for the anti Squeel thingy............
You might think twice about that if you use them on the road - I put mine back in to try and get the noise down (not squeeling, but the rattling)... I got sick of everyone thinking I was driving a traction engine!
Steve
Edited by Merritt on Sunday 28th January 18:45
paulburrell said:
Jason
Changing the pads is a really easy job, believe me, once you've done it once you'll realise that you never need pay a garage to do it ever again. Not only that, but you can drive the car safe in the knowledge that if you've done the brakes, the garages 17 year old YTS apprentice hasn't. I know which alternative makes me sleep more comfortably at night.
Changing the pads is a really easy job, believe me, once you've done it once you'll realise that you never need pay a garage to do it ever again. Not only that, but you can drive the car safe in the knowledge that if you've done the brakes, the garages 17 year old YTS apprentice hasn't. I know which alternative makes me sleep more comfortably at night.
I think thats the key...I'm not that much of a dunce really but would rather have someone show me first time around rather than make a hash of it and put myself into some barrier as a result....
slippydiff said:
Worthwhile removing the top off the brake master cylinder to ensure someone hasn't topped the brake fluid level up when the pads were low too. Failure to do this can result in the brake fluid squirting all over the place under the bonnet.
Worth putting a rag into the top of the reservoir too to soak anything up so it doesn't drip out everywhere.
Hardest bit of fitting pads is getting the pistons open. If you keep the old pads and knock the material off, they make a good tool to push against the pistons.
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