Camber setting method

[steve-v8s]

Just had a thought that may be completely flawed but.. To adjust the Camber settings I first find me a level surface to work on. Then take each wheel off, loosen the top joints move them all out too far and put the wheels back on. Then with the wheels sat back on the ground offer up the camber gauge and with a length of wood passed through the wheel, tap the top joint until the desired setting is achieved, hopefully not over shooting the mark. Then the wheels come off again to tighten the bolts.

Here is the idea. What if I make up four, wheel centre height metal plates with 108pcd holes and fit them instead of wheels. Then I can get at the bolts and adjust in both directions without keep taking the wheels off. Will that work or have I missed something ?

[spend]

I used wooden wedges (albeit on a laser system on a 4post ramp) & found them a useful way to set accurately the camber (only needed on the rears in my case). I cant see it working the other way round as you suggest.

The big problem I found is that when ever you torque any of the components its quite alarming how much the settings change. The settings also affect each other it seems that as you change the tracking the camber moves ~ to get these spot on you end up doing redoing... using divide by 2 adjustments. But then again maybe I was just too finnicky. However you do it it is a question of patience I reckon.

You might be more interested in getting the adjustable wishbones, this makes setting camber a doddle + you can premeasure defined cambers and keep a note of screw turns to set the desired camber. I would really like a set for the back end, but to be honest I'm not sure I would change the rear camber so much anyway so havent really bothered.

But you should completely ignore my post cos I dont know what Im talking about...

Dave

[shpub]

It's covered in the bible but basically. Measure camber with wheels on the ground. Work out the difference you need. Remove the wheel. measure the camber. Adjust the camber by the difference. Tighten up. Pop wheel on and check. Repeat as necessary.

[steve-v8s]

Steve, have your book so will re-read that bit, but please could you clarify; You are saying determine what adjustment you need to make (say –2 degrees). Take the wheel(s) off, presumably both sides at the same time and let the hubs hang. Then measure the camber against the hub and adjust what ever that is to – 2 degrees.

looks like I am going to end up with Radial Slicks to will have to dial in a bit more camber than the road settings

[the gazman]

To be honest its all a pain in the butt doing it with camber guages and I dread having to do it the hard way when for £75 I can take it to somebody like Kipling in Hemel Hempstead and put it on their gear which remembers the load values and enables you to adjust in full droop. About 10k bit of kit though which I can't afford
Bit of a no-brainer I reckon.

[spend]

I think the requirement is to change to slicks at the venue, isnt it?

Dave

[Ballistic Banana]

As well as Steves Guide in the " Bible " theres also a good guide here
sent to me by Nic Bowman.
BB

Edited by Ballistic Banana on Sunday 28th January 21:56

[the gazman]

I have read Nic's method and agree it would work but would just remind DIYers of the sequence of events to do full geo.
1) Tyre pressures
2) Ride height
3) Caster adjustment but not on Tivs
4) Camber adjustment
5) Toe adjustment.

[spend]

the gazman said:

I have read Nic's method and agree it would work but would just remind DIYers of the sequence of events to do full geo.
1) Tyre pressures
2) Ride height
3) Caster adjustment but not on Tivs
4) Camber adjustment
5) Toe adjustment.

Thats an excellent outline Deweck, but I think there are some minor omissions (in my limited knowledge) which could be added to enhance it.

Settle the car by rolling backwards and forwards a few feet

I believe a 'full geo' refers to getting rear wheels going the same way as the front, instead of crabbing.

It is NOT acceptable to simply set the front and rear tracking separately with say a set of Dunlop style gauges as it is imperative that the rear wheels are not only aligned correctly to each other but also relative to the pair of front wheels. If this is not done the car will not drive straight under any great throttle openings and indeed this is usually the first clue that the rear wheels, as a pair, are not correctly referenced to the front axle.

HTH, Dave

[the gazman]

Very true Dave,thats why I recomend getting the car on 4 wheel kit like Ian has at Middlewich, unless you go to somewhere like APM or Topcats who do it the old way with string and tape measures (and get the same results BTW)

[shpub]

steve-v8s said:

Steve, have your book so will re-read that bit, but please could you clarify; You are saying determine what adjustment you need to make (say –2 degrees). Take the wheel(s) off, presumably both sides at the same time and let the hubs hang. Then measure the camber against the hub and adjust what ever that is to – 2 degrees.

looks like I am going to end up with Radial Slicks to will have to dial in a bit more camber than the road settings

Yes. It can be quite time consuming. Not something I would want to do first thing in the morning. I would expect the radial slick camber settings to be very similar to road so why not set the camber to the slick value and simply bolt on the road tyres to the poodle to the event. Means you can change settings in your own time rather than add another job to the many that need to be done before a sprint.

[seasider]

spend said:

But you should completely ignore my post cos I dont know what Im talking about...

Dave

String, wood, spirit level & measuring device. Check, adjust

Check @ laser place when next that way "All spot on sir" i thank you

[steve-v8s]

Steve :-
Exactly, although I would prefer to Burble, to the event rather the Poodle. Poodleing sounds more like something you would do in an MG. The Hoosier people recommend 2.5 – 3 which is a bit (well a lot actually) more than I run with the A032rs

[trackcar]

nah that's not alot .. we run 4-5 degrees on our race car and much stiffer sprung with better camber control in roll than your car .. 3 degrees would be the minimu i'd be looking at .. i run 4 degrees on my S

[spend]

Steve, I believe there are few people with road settings not too far away from that (me included), so I would have thought it would be feasible for you try as your road setup. I still think its better to invest in adjustable wishbones ~ its much easier to just spanner in/out camber to suit (just count the turns/flats).

IMHO the camber is the 'worst?' of the standard rec. settings (I kind of imagine down to floppy bushing constraints), but I know nothing, just my 2p.

Dave

[steve-v8s]

All the 2Ps add up and eventually you have pound

[spend]

Sorry Joo, must have been writing simultaneously. I only followed Joos advise for this, its all credit to him in my case (any discredit goes down to me :-), never quite sure what the International Man of Mystery's trade secrets are ?

Dave