Immobiliser Problems - Please Help
Discussion
Dear all
I have a slight dilemma. Recently I have been having problems with the Meta alarm immobiliser on my Griff 500. Let me set the scene. If I go the the garage and use the immobiliser key to dis-arm then she starts first time. I then go out for a spin and stop to fill with fuel and then go back to the car and she will not start either with the immobiliser key or by arming and dis-arming with the fob. The fob locks the doors etc but neither of them dis-arm the immobiliser and allow for the fuel pump to kick in and prime. If I leave for about 5 mins then she is fine with either and away we go again. This is becoming very frustrating as a fuel stop takes forever and is very embarrassing as the ques build behind me in the service station.
Any helps would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance
I have a slight dilemma. Recently I have been having problems with the Meta alarm immobiliser on my Griff 500. Let me set the scene. If I go the the garage and use the immobiliser key to dis-arm then she starts first time. I then go out for a spin and stop to fill with fuel and then go back to the car and she will not start either with the immobiliser key or by arming and dis-arming with the fob. The fob locks the doors etc but neither of them dis-arm the immobiliser and allow for the fuel pump to kick in and prime. If I leave for about 5 mins then she is fine with either and away we go again. This is becoming very frustrating as a fuel stop takes forever and is very embarrassing as the ques build behind me in the service station.
Any helps would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance
This sound like the classic Hot Start problem, do a search on this you’ll find loads of info.
In my opinion there is one problem that can manifest itself in two ways. The problem is that the starter solenoid is energised via the immobiliser which when the starter starts to wear a little and then gets hot needs a little bit more current to kick it into action (problem one). Also the immobiliser is not really up to the job of delivering the required current (problem two) and it doesn’t like getting warm. So the first thing to do is fit David Beer’s Mod-wise Hot start kit, which is basically an additional relay in the starter circuit.
I fitted the Mod-wise kit which did help some of the time, though did not sort my problem completely however it does fix the majority of cases. Also once fitted it makes it very straight forward to by-pass the immobiliser should you ever need to (I’ll mail you direct should you need this)
The immobiliser apparently has three small circuit board relays, one for the Fuel pump, starter solenoid and ignition circuit. These are not really up to the job especially the starter one, hence David’s kit. The immobiliser unit is fully potted in and can not be repaired, if one fails completely the unit can be bypassed but not permanently for insurance purposes, to maintain Thatchem CAT 1. If you want to replace the unit talk to Metaman on Piston Heads (Carl from car and bike installation, I think, should be in his profile though). Carl is the man where the alarm is concerned. Replacement isn’t cheap as the new unit must be synchronized to the rest of your system.
However all is not lost, since mine worked when cold, I assume this is the same for you, the immobiliser unit is not dead yet.
I could get at mine in the Griff by removing the radio and vent ducts, the immobiliser is a black plastic box with a red label having T99 (I think) on it and a lot of all black wires coming from one end, about 2 x 4 inches. It was sat directly on top of the bellhouseing cover and getting fried. The wires are long and all bundled up, if you cut the tie wraps there should be enough wire to move the unit to a cooler location behind the dash. This is what I did and now I only have the occasional problem on very hot days after a short journey for the last couple of years, but when it dose fail it just take a quick fiddle with the new starter relay and she bursts back into life, not a problem.
Hope this helps,
Simon.
In my opinion there is one problem that can manifest itself in two ways. The problem is that the starter solenoid is energised via the immobiliser which when the starter starts to wear a little and then gets hot needs a little bit more current to kick it into action (problem one). Also the immobiliser is not really up to the job of delivering the required current (problem two) and it doesn’t like getting warm. So the first thing to do is fit David Beer’s Mod-wise Hot start kit, which is basically an additional relay in the starter circuit.
I fitted the Mod-wise kit which did help some of the time, though did not sort my problem completely however it does fix the majority of cases. Also once fitted it makes it very straight forward to by-pass the immobiliser should you ever need to (I’ll mail you direct should you need this)
The immobiliser apparently has three small circuit board relays, one for the Fuel pump, starter solenoid and ignition circuit. These are not really up to the job especially the starter one, hence David’s kit. The immobiliser unit is fully potted in and can not be repaired, if one fails completely the unit can be bypassed but not permanently for insurance purposes, to maintain Thatchem CAT 1. If you want to replace the unit talk to Metaman on Piston Heads (Carl from car and bike installation, I think, should be in his profile though). Carl is the man where the alarm is concerned. Replacement isn’t cheap as the new unit must be synchronized to the rest of your system.
However all is not lost, since mine worked when cold, I assume this is the same for you, the immobiliser unit is not dead yet.
I could get at mine in the Griff by removing the radio and vent ducts, the immobiliser is a black plastic box with a red label having T99 (I think) on it and a lot of all black wires coming from one end, about 2 x 4 inches. It was sat directly on top of the bellhouseing cover and getting fried. The wires are long and all bundled up, if you cut the tie wraps there should be enough wire to move the unit to a cooler location behind the dash. This is what I did and now I only have the occasional problem on very hot days after a short journey for the last couple of years, but when it dose fail it just take a quick fiddle with the new starter relay and she bursts back into life, not a problem.
Hope this helps,
Simon.
Dear all
Thanks for your help. I have just spoken with Carl and as others have said he seems to be the guru on this matter. He was really helpful and it would appear to be the immobiliser breaking down under heat as Simon mentioned. He will be replacing it later this week hopefully. Finger crossed.
Thanks again. :-)
Thanks for your help. I have just spoken with Carl and as others have said he seems to be the guru on this matter. He was really helpful and it would appear to be the immobiliser breaking down under heat as Simon mentioned. He will be replacing it later this week hopefully. Finger crossed.
Thanks again. :-)
tedj,
Did the replacement of the immobiliser resolve your start issues. I have recently been caught out with the same problem. Thought it was the fuel pump circuit part of the immobiliser but at the weekend heard that kick in when trying to start but it still didnt turn over so looks like two of the 3 circuits are on their way.
Would be good to know if replacement was the resolution as I need to do the same... very embarassing when filling up and becoming a pain.
Thanks
David
Did the replacement of the immobiliser resolve your start issues. I have recently been caught out with the same problem. Thought it was the fuel pump circuit part of the immobiliser but at the weekend heard that kick in when trying to start but it still didnt turn over so looks like two of the 3 circuits are on their way.
Would be good to know if replacement was the resolution as I need to do the same... very embarassing when filling up and becoming a pain.
Thanks
David
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