Discussion
Hi all
In the process of probably doing a deal on a 993 Carrera 4S, in Artic Silver
£71K MILES, FPSH, Lux pack stunning nick 3 owners etc etc.
Anything specific i need to be looking for?, currently on my 3rd 911 so know the basics, but never had a 4WD version and havent got a clue on 993's or the 4 wheel drive.
Looks like me Cab is going
Help appreciated
Ed
In the process of probably doing a deal on a 993 Carrera 4S, in Artic Silver
£71K MILES, FPSH, Lux pack stunning nick 3 owners etc etc.
Anything specific i need to be looking for?, currently on my 3rd 911 so know the basics, but never had a 4WD version and havent got a clue on 993's or the 4 wheel drive.
Looks like me Cab is going
Help appreciated
Ed
Shamelessly cut and pasted from the Buying FAQ on the PCGB 993 forum. A lot of it is, of course, general stuff that you'll probably be familiar with as the owner of previous 911s.
Door checks and tired suspension are probably the two big ones that immediately spring to mind.
#1 As many do low mileage, annual services should be done and documented. Check all paperwork thoroughly, map out the history. Get a thorough independent inspection.
#2 Low miles commands a premium, but can sometimes cause trouble, see 1. Check aircon functionality and all electrics.
#3 You're not 100% safe with an OPC or reputable specialist, but as fully warranted as possible is a pretty good start, adds 2k-10k to the price. Not much trouble would get repair bills of that order! Hard to find 993s at an OPC now …
#4 Carrera 2, 4, S, 4S and TTurbo, RS, TTS prices rank in more or less ascending order, but they are all great cars.
#5 Drive both 2 & 4 to decide that one. 4wd will understeer rather more. Targa and Cabriolet to taste .... Targa roof will require maintenance and alignment, all Cabs had a recent (Dec 2004) recall for safety issues.
#6 VRam (96 on) gives a wider torque spread, 13 more bhp when fully functional. More flexible, less peaky. Better for the 4 speed Tiptronic and the taller ratio /20 gearbox methinks.
#7 Downside of later N/A (96 on) cars is the gearbox change to the US ratios (G50/20), but only really noticeable on the track. G50/21 is 'busier' cruising on the motorway, closer ratios.
#8 Get the best car you can afford, with the options you really want. Adding them later costs big time.
#9 Cars up to early 96 should have had their engine wiring loom checked – if on the OPC VIN list it should be replaced - official recall and no charge, although sometimes things seem to go wrong afterwards .....
#10 Only some '95 Coupes and Cabriolets are eligible for the steering rack brace retro-fit to enable fitment of 18” wheels, strictly speaking. See FAQs.
#11 Factory shocks (especially Monroe) last 20-40K miles only before their performance degrades significantly - check for replacement.
#12 M030 (sports suspension option) gives excellent ride / crisp handling with progressive rate front springs and thicker anti-roll bars – M033 (lowered suspension M030/TT height) fitted as standard to S models – shocks for either no better. RS gets Bilsteins, ‘nuf said.
#13 Big Red brakes (4S, TT, RS) are great, but the standard Brembos are outstanding anyway, and lighter. RS and TT/4S are different setups ..
#14 Oil used should reflect the value of the car – fully synthetic oils mandatory. Shorter change intervals are no substitute, annual changes also necessary, more frequent if tracking. Likewise petrol should be 98 RON always, not just special occasions !
#15 Suspension alignment is critical to handling – 993 multilink rear suspension requires extra setting of kinematic toe – special tools required – OPC or specialist only. Look for uneven wear patterns, feathering, especially inside edge. Be careful of cheap 'upgrades' like lowering springs - they are often incompatible with the shocks and can indicate skimping.
#16 LHD gets better driving position along with usual ‘difficulties’ like toll booths, parking barriers.
#17 Options sticker should be inside front lid - if not, could well be repaint/replace job.
#18 Run your finger down the rain gutter, it should tighten towards rear of cabin - if not could be major body stuff.
#19 The seam beads in front of either side of the windscreen should not be brittle - indicates oven treatment without full strip down.
#20 All Cabriolets subject to roof recall (see other FAQ). Targas based on Cab platform, less structural rigidity than coupe. 18 inch wheels are not approved for Targas, or pre '96 Cabriolets, see other FAQ.
#21 Cars with remote control alarm / immobiliser fobs should come with two black remotes AND one red one - this last is the master, and can be used to program replacement black ones. Hamilton & Palmer can sort it all out, tho'. Be wary of after market alarms and audio fitments.
#22 We've certainly talked about it, but pay close attention to the door check strap mounting brackets. They should be solidly mounted to the front wing - as they were only lightly welded, they frequently loosen before detaching themselves, causing a loud click when the door is half way open / closed. Proper repair is expensive (wing off), and OPCs now unlikely to fix this gratis despite it being one of the few design faults of the 993. Doors generally should shut cleanly with a really solid quality thunk !
#23 Pay close attention to windscreen and rear screen fitments. They are structural items, bonded to the car. Check for poor replacement procedures, rust from scrapes etc. Squeaking can be a problem, but there is a teflon tape cure.
#24 Always check for complete toolkit including compressor.
#25 All tyres should be matching type and N spec number - mandatory in OPCs ...
Door checks and tired suspension are probably the two big ones that immediately spring to mind.
#1 As many do low mileage, annual services should be done and documented. Check all paperwork thoroughly, map out the history. Get a thorough independent inspection.
#2 Low miles commands a premium, but can sometimes cause trouble, see 1. Check aircon functionality and all electrics.
#3 You're not 100% safe with an OPC or reputable specialist, but as fully warranted as possible is a pretty good start, adds 2k-10k to the price. Not much trouble would get repair bills of that order! Hard to find 993s at an OPC now …
#4 Carrera 2, 4, S, 4S and TTurbo, RS, TTS prices rank in more or less ascending order, but they are all great cars.
#5 Drive both 2 & 4 to decide that one. 4wd will understeer rather more. Targa and Cabriolet to taste .... Targa roof will require maintenance and alignment, all Cabs had a recent (Dec 2004) recall for safety issues.
#6 VRam (96 on) gives a wider torque spread, 13 more bhp when fully functional. More flexible, less peaky. Better for the 4 speed Tiptronic and the taller ratio /20 gearbox methinks.
#7 Downside of later N/A (96 on) cars is the gearbox change to the US ratios (G50/20), but only really noticeable on the track. G50/21 is 'busier' cruising on the motorway, closer ratios.
#8 Get the best car you can afford, with the options you really want. Adding them later costs big time.
#9 Cars up to early 96 should have had their engine wiring loom checked – if on the OPC VIN list it should be replaced - official recall and no charge, although sometimes things seem to go wrong afterwards .....
#10 Only some '95 Coupes and Cabriolets are eligible for the steering rack brace retro-fit to enable fitment of 18” wheels, strictly speaking. See FAQs.
#11 Factory shocks (especially Monroe) last 20-40K miles only before their performance degrades significantly - check for replacement.
#12 M030 (sports suspension option) gives excellent ride / crisp handling with progressive rate front springs and thicker anti-roll bars – M033 (lowered suspension M030/TT height) fitted as standard to S models – shocks for either no better. RS gets Bilsteins, ‘nuf said.
#13 Big Red brakes (4S, TT, RS) are great, but the standard Brembos are outstanding anyway, and lighter. RS and TT/4S are different setups ..
#14 Oil used should reflect the value of the car – fully synthetic oils mandatory. Shorter change intervals are no substitute, annual changes also necessary, more frequent if tracking. Likewise petrol should be 98 RON always, not just special occasions !
#15 Suspension alignment is critical to handling – 993 multilink rear suspension requires extra setting of kinematic toe – special tools required – OPC or specialist only. Look for uneven wear patterns, feathering, especially inside edge. Be careful of cheap 'upgrades' like lowering springs - they are often incompatible with the shocks and can indicate skimping.
#16 LHD gets better driving position along with usual ‘difficulties’ like toll booths, parking barriers.
#17 Options sticker should be inside front lid - if not, could well be repaint/replace job.
#18 Run your finger down the rain gutter, it should tighten towards rear of cabin - if not could be major body stuff.
#19 The seam beads in front of either side of the windscreen should not be brittle - indicates oven treatment without full strip down.
#20 All Cabriolets subject to roof recall (see other FAQ). Targas based on Cab platform, less structural rigidity than coupe. 18 inch wheels are not approved for Targas, or pre '96 Cabriolets, see other FAQ.
#21 Cars with remote control alarm / immobiliser fobs should come with two black remotes AND one red one - this last is the master, and can be used to program replacement black ones. Hamilton & Palmer can sort it all out, tho'. Be wary of after market alarms and audio fitments.
#22 We've certainly talked about it, but pay close attention to the door check strap mounting brackets. They should be solidly mounted to the front wing - as they were only lightly welded, they frequently loosen before detaching themselves, causing a loud click when the door is half way open / closed. Proper repair is expensive (wing off), and OPCs now unlikely to fix this gratis despite it being one of the few design faults of the 993. Doors generally should shut cleanly with a really solid quality thunk !
#23 Pay close attention to windscreen and rear screen fitments. They are structural items, bonded to the car. Check for poor replacement procedures, rust from scrapes etc. Squeaking can be a problem, but there is a teflon tape cure.
#24 Always check for complete toolkit including compressor.
#25 All tyres should be matching type and N spec number - mandatory in OPCs ...
Edited by Lurking Lawyer on Monday 5th February 21:40
Lurking Lawyer said:
Shamelessly cut and pasted from the Buying FAQ on the PCGB 993 forum. A lot of it is, of course, general stuff that you'll probably be familiar with as the owner of previous 911s.
Door checks and tired suspension are probably the two big ones that immediately spring to mind.
#1 As many do low mileage, annual services should be done and documented. Check all paperwork thoroughly, map out the history. Get a thorough independent inspection.
#2 Low miles commands a premium, but can sometimes cause trouble, see 1. Check aircon functionality and all electrics.
#3 You're not 100% safe with an OPC or reputable specialist, but as fully warranted as possible is a pretty good start, adds 2k-10k to the price. Not much trouble would get repair bills of that order! Hard to find 993s at an OPC now …
#4 Carrera 2, 4, S, 4S and TTurbo, RS, TTS prices rank in more or less ascending order, but they are all great cars.
#5 Drive both 2 & 4 to decide that one. 4wd will understeer rather more. Targa and Cabriolet to taste .... Targa roof will require maintenance and alignment, all Cabs had a recent (Dec 2004) recall for safety issues.
#6 VRam (96 on) gives a wider torque spread, 13 more bhp when fully functional. More flexible, less peaky. Better for the 4 speed Tiptronic and the taller ratio /20 gearbox methinks.
#7 Downside of later N/A (96 on) cars is the gearbox change to the US ratios (G50/20), but only really noticeable on the track. G50/21 is 'busier' cruising on the motorway, closer ratios.
#8 Get the best car you can afford, with the options you really want. Adding them later costs big time.
#9 Cars up to early 96 should have had their engine wiring loom checked – if on the OPC VIN list it should be replaced - official recall and no charge, although sometimes things seem to go wrong afterwards .....
#10 Only some '95 Coupes and Cabriolets are eligible for the steering rack brace retro-fit to enable fitment of 18” wheels, strictly speaking. See FAQs.
#11 Factory shocks (especially Monroe) last 20-40K miles only before their performance degrades significantly - check for replacement.
#12 M030 (sports suspension option) gives excellent ride / crisp handling with progressive rate front springs and thicker anti-roll bars – M033 (lowered suspension M030/TT height) fitted as standard to S models – shocks for either no better. RS gets Bilsteins, ‘nuf said.
#13 Big Red brakes (4S, TT, RS) are great, but the standard Brembos are outstanding anyway, and lighter. RS and TT/4S are different setups ..
#14 Oil used should reflect the value of the car – fully synthetic oils mandatory. Shorter change intervals are no substitute, annual changes also necessary, more frequent if tracking. Likewise petrol should be 98 RON always, not just special occasions !
#15 Suspension alignment is critical to handling – 993 multilink rear suspension requires extra setting of kinematic toe – special tools required – OPC or specialist only. Look for uneven wear patterns, feathering, especially inside edge. Be careful of cheap 'upgrades' like lowering springs - they are often incompatible with the shocks and can indicate skimping.
#16 LHD gets better driving position along with usual ‘difficulties’ like toll booths, parking barriers.
#17 Options sticker should be inside front lid - if not, could well be repaint/replace job.
#18 Run your finger down the rain gutter, it should tighten towards rear of cabin - if not could be major body stuff.
#19 The seam beads in front of either side of the windscreen should not be brittle - indicates oven treatment without full strip down.
#20 All Cabriolets subject to roof recall (see other FAQ). Targas based on Cab platform, less structural rigidity than coupe. 18 inch wheels are not approved for Targas, or pre '96 Cabriolets, see other FAQ.
#21 Cars with remote control alarm / immobiliser fobs should come with two black remotes AND one red one - this last is the master, and can be used to program replacement black ones. Hamilton & Palmer can sort it all out, tho'. Be wary of after market alarms and audio fitments.
#22 We've certainly talked about it, but pay close attention to the door check strap mounting brackets. They should be solidly mounted to the front wing - as they were only lightly welded, they frequently loosen before detaching themselves, causing a loud click when the door is half way open / closed. Proper repair is expensive (wing off), and OPCs now unlikely to fix this gratis despite it being one of the few design faults of the 993. Doors generally should shut cleanly with a really solid quality thunk !
#23 Pay close attention to windscreen and rear screen fitments. They are structural items, bonded to the car. Check for poor replacement procedures, rust from scrapes etc. Squeaking can be a problem, but there is a teflon tape cure.
#24 Always check for complete toolkit including compressor.
#25 All tyres should be matching type and N spec number - mandatory in OPCs ...
Door checks and tired suspension are probably the two big ones that immediately spring to mind.
#1 As many do low mileage, annual services should be done and documented. Check all paperwork thoroughly, map out the history. Get a thorough independent inspection.
#2 Low miles commands a premium, but can sometimes cause trouble, see 1. Check aircon functionality and all electrics.
#3 You're not 100% safe with an OPC or reputable specialist, but as fully warranted as possible is a pretty good start, adds 2k-10k to the price. Not much trouble would get repair bills of that order! Hard to find 993s at an OPC now …
#4 Carrera 2, 4, S, 4S and TTurbo, RS, TTS prices rank in more or less ascending order, but they are all great cars.
#5 Drive both 2 & 4 to decide that one. 4wd will understeer rather more. Targa and Cabriolet to taste .... Targa roof will require maintenance and alignment, all Cabs had a recent (Dec 2004) recall for safety issues.
#6 VRam (96 on) gives a wider torque spread, 13 more bhp when fully functional. More flexible, less peaky. Better for the 4 speed Tiptronic and the taller ratio /20 gearbox methinks.
#7 Downside of later N/A (96 on) cars is the gearbox change to the US ratios (G50/20), but only really noticeable on the track. G50/21 is 'busier' cruising on the motorway, closer ratios.
#8 Get the best car you can afford, with the options you really want. Adding them later costs big time.
#9 Cars up to early 96 should have had their engine wiring loom checked – if on the OPC VIN list it should be replaced - official recall and no charge, although sometimes things seem to go wrong afterwards .....
#10 Only some '95 Coupes and Cabriolets are eligible for the steering rack brace retro-fit to enable fitment of 18” wheels, strictly speaking. See FAQs.
#11 Factory shocks (especially Monroe) last 20-40K miles only before their performance degrades significantly - check for replacement.
#12 M030 (sports suspension option) gives excellent ride / crisp handling with progressive rate front springs and thicker anti-roll bars – M033 (lowered suspension M030/TT height) fitted as standard to S models – shocks for either no better. RS gets Bilsteins, ‘nuf said.
#13 Big Red brakes (4S, TT, RS) are great, but the standard Brembos are outstanding anyway, and lighter. RS and TT/4S are different setups ..
#14 Oil used should reflect the value of the car – fully synthetic oils mandatory. Shorter change intervals are no substitute, annual changes also necessary, more frequent if tracking. Likewise petrol should be 98 RON always, not just special occasions !
#15 Suspension alignment is critical to handling – 993 multilink rear suspension requires extra setting of kinematic toe – special tools required – OPC or specialist only. Look for uneven wear patterns, feathering, especially inside edge. Be careful of cheap 'upgrades' like lowering springs - they are often incompatible with the shocks and can indicate skimping.
#16 LHD gets better driving position along with usual ‘difficulties’ like toll booths, parking barriers.
#17 Options sticker should be inside front lid - if not, could well be repaint/replace job.
#18 Run your finger down the rain gutter, it should tighten towards rear of cabin - if not could be major body stuff.
#19 The seam beads in front of either side of the windscreen should not be brittle - indicates oven treatment without full strip down.
#20 All Cabriolets subject to roof recall (see other FAQ). Targas based on Cab platform, less structural rigidity than coupe. 18 inch wheels are not approved for Targas, or pre '96 Cabriolets, see other FAQ.
#21 Cars with remote control alarm / immobiliser fobs should come with two black remotes AND one red one - this last is the master, and can be used to program replacement black ones. Hamilton & Palmer can sort it all out, tho'. Be wary of after market alarms and audio fitments.
#22 We've certainly talked about it, but pay close attention to the door check strap mounting brackets. They should be solidly mounted to the front wing - as they were only lightly welded, they frequently loosen before detaching themselves, causing a loud click when the door is half way open / closed. Proper repair is expensive (wing off), and OPCs now unlikely to fix this gratis despite it being one of the few design faults of the 993. Doors generally should shut cleanly with a really solid quality thunk !
#23 Pay close attention to windscreen and rear screen fitments. They are structural items, bonded to the car. Check for poor replacement procedures, rust from scrapes etc. Squeaking can be a problem, but there is a teflon tape cure.
#24 Always check for complete toolkit including compressor.
#25 All tyres should be matching type and N spec number - mandatory in OPCs ...
Edited by Lurking Lawyer on Monday 5th February 21:40
#22 We've certainly talked about it, but pay close attention to the door check strap mounting brackets. They should be solidly mounted to the front wing - as they were only lightly welded, they frequently loosen before detaching themselves, causing a loud click when the door is half way open / closed. Proper repair is expensive (wing off), and OPCs now unlikely to fix this gratis despite it being one of the few design faults of the 993. Doors generally should shut cleanly with a really solid quality thunk !
Thanks Mark appreciate the info, not sure i understand the above though (section 22)?
ED965 said:
Thanks Mark appreciate the info, not sure i understand the above though (section 22)?
The door check stays - the bits of metal that stop the door swinging open too far - are a known weakness with the 993. In an unusual bit of cost-saving in a car which is reputedly so over-engineered, Porsche attached the stay to the wing with a flimsy weld that is prone too wearing and eventually letting go if care is not taken to stop it swinging out too hard when opening the door.
It can be expensive job to put right so it's best to avoid a car with symptoms of failing stays in the first place - or factor the potential repair cost into the purchase price.
There's plenty about it on here. 15 mins with the search function will serve you well.
(I'd add more myself but I didn't get much beyond the basics in my own research!)
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