Brake pads and how to replace them
Discussion
Quite an easy job. I used Green stuff pads. Opinions seem to vary on them, But I have no issues (not a track driver) Pads for the whole car were about £75.00
Front pads are retained by a hex head bolt through the top of the caliper, rear pads are held in by 2 split pins. These may have rusted and it is probably worth replacing them too (cost about 50p each. There are some small springs slid over the split pins. One of mine had rusted and snapped, so I replaced these too. The price of these was rather high for what looks like the spring out of a biro! (several pounds each IIRC) It is worth bonding the pads in at the rear with silicone or double sided tape to stop them rattling. There are several threads on here about that.
Jon H
Front pads are retained by a hex head bolt through the top of the caliper, rear pads are held in by 2 split pins. These may have rusted and it is probably worth replacing them too (cost about 50p each. There are some small springs slid over the split pins. One of mine had rusted and snapped, so I replaced these too. The price of these was rather high for what looks like the spring out of a biro! (several pounds each IIRC) It is worth bonding the pads in at the rear with silicone or double sided tape to stop them rattling. There are several threads on here about that.
Jon H
jon h said:
Quite an easy job. I used Green stuff pads. Opinions seem to vary on them, But I have no issues (not a track driver) Pads for the whole car were about £75.00
Front pads are retained by a hex head bolt through the top of the caliper, rear pads are held in by 2 split pins. These may have rusted and it is probably worth replacing them too (cost about 50p each. There are some small springs slid over the split pins. One of mine had rusted and snapped, so I replaced these too. The price of these was rather high for what looks like the spring out of a biro! (several pounds each IIRC) It is worth bonding the pads in at the rear with silicone or double sided tape to stop them rattling. There are several threads on here about that.
Jon H
Front pads are retained by a hex head bolt through the top of the caliper, rear pads are held in by 2 split pins. These may have rusted and it is probably worth replacing them too (cost about 50p each. There are some small springs slid over the split pins. One of mine had rusted and snapped, so I replaced these too. The price of these was rather high for what looks like the spring out of a biro! (several pounds each IIRC) It is worth bonding the pads in at the rear with silicone or double sided tape to stop them rattling. There are several threads on here about that.
Jon H
Agree with the above...changed mine several times trying to eliminate 'pad-squeel'. Hardest part of the job, was getting a trolley jack uner the car to get it off the ground!
satman said:
jon h said:
Quite an easy job. I used Green stuff pads. Opinions seem to vary on them, But I have no issues (not a track driver) Pads for the whole car were about £75.00
Front pads are retained by a hex head bolt through the top of the caliper, rear pads are held in by 2 split pins. These may have rusted and it is probably worth replacing them too (cost about 50p each. There are some small springs slid over the split pins. One of mine had rusted and snapped, so I replaced these too. The price of these was rather high for what looks like the spring out of a biro! (several pounds each IIRC) It is worth bonding the pads in at the rear with silicone or double sided tape to stop them rattling. There are several threads on here about that.
Jon H
Front pads are retained by a hex head bolt through the top of the caliper, rear pads are held in by 2 split pins. These may have rusted and it is probably worth replacing them too (cost about 50p each. There are some small springs slid over the split pins. One of mine had rusted and snapped, so I replaced these too. The price of these was rather high for what looks like the spring out of a biro! (several pounds each IIRC) It is worth bonding the pads in at the rear with silicone or double sided tape to stop them rattling. There are several threads on here about that.
Jon H
Agree with the above...changed mine several times trying to eliminate 'pad-squeel'. Hardest part of the job, was getting a trolley jack uner the car to get it off the ground!
Particular part number for Green stuff guys?
I know what you mean. I had to put a scissor jack under mine and then the trolly afterwards last time.
Cheers all
Use EBC Reds as they work well from cold thanks to the new compound.
IMHO Greens are unsuitable for the Cerb'
Check the part numbers thread under FAQ tab at the top of the page.
Don't forget to use copper slip on the back of the pads and bolts to stop everything seizing and squeeling.
Good luck
Tim
IMHO Greens are unsuitable for the Cerb'
Check the part numbers thread under FAQ tab at the top of the page.
Don't forget to use copper slip on the back of the pads and bolts to stop everything seizing and squeeling.
Good luck
Tim
Interesting - What's everyones recommendation for pads.
Green stuff is definately not recommended but red stuff ones are apparently.
Choices from what I can see are:
Red Dot from Clever Trever at approx £150 - www.clever-trevor.net/category2/brakes/1/
EBC Red Stuff - DP3002C front £55 - DP3102C rear £45
Mintex are approx £60 front, £40 rear
Or original TVR ones are £150 front, £115 rear
www.racetechdirect.co.uk/product-subsection.asp?MakeID=1&ModelID=6&CATID=1&SUBCATID=78
Green stuff is definately not recommended but red stuff ones are apparently.
Choices from what I can see are:
Red Dot from Clever Trever at approx £150 - www.clever-trevor.net/category2/brakes/1/
EBC Red Stuff - DP3002C front £55 - DP3102C rear £45
Mintex are approx £60 front, £40 rear
Or original TVR ones are £150 front, £115 rear
www.racetechdirect.co.uk/product-subsection.asp?MakeID=1&ModelID=6&CATID=1&SUBCATID=78
byker28i said:
Does anyone have any comments on brake pad materials/recommendations etc. There's a wide variety of prices. Is it the more expensive the better?
There's also some Ferodo ones...
There's also some Ferodo ones...
No, I don't think it is.
I've used OE AP Racing pads and EBC Reds and I would say that there's little to choose between them.
I sprinted the Cerb' last year at 8 events and took part in 2 track days using the EBCs and they worked very well from cold and still have plenty of meat left on them.
For the price they're hard to beat!
Tim
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