manifold gaskets

[Paul V]

Where is the best place to buy them from? also how awkward will they be to change? engine has only been in a year and done about 4k so hoping the studs shouldn't snap.

Thinking I can hammerite the chassis too while they are off.

[barreti]

YHM about the gaskets.

I've just done a manifold swap and repainted the chassis while I was in there, Don't underestimate how long it takes to scrape off the old crap!
I've used Electrox to paint the chassis - after reading up on it and POR-15
I'll also overpaint it with chassis black, where I can reach it now I've refitted the new manifolds.

[Paul V]

Cheers, a decent set of gaskets would be good, I did the outriggers and front of the chassis so don't have too much to do. Been tempted by the decat pipes but think that's a bit extravagant at the moment

[Ballistic Banana]

I got mine from ACT clicky

apparently you can change them without taking the whole manifold off. just undo lever away from engine slide old out and slid new in. I havent tried it myself but have heard that it can be done that way.

BB

[GreenV8S]

If you're talking about the exhaust manifold, the best ones I've found are twin metal composite gaskets, I usually get mine from RPI but there are plenty of other RV8 and TVR specialists that will supply them. Don't forget to get a set of ARP K head bolts while you at it, if you haven't already converted.

[johno]

Definitely get composite gaskets as others have expeanded on ... Don't bother with anything else....

I have to contest ARP studs though .... If you're not careful you'll upreade very bolt. Th manifold bolts are perfectly good enough if you take them out and put them back in sensibly .... Also may want to look at bending a 1/4" spanner, or getting a 'C' spanner as it does fit ...

[Paul V]

I'll get the gaskets ordered before I start taking anything apart. I have ratchet spanners but not sure if they will get in there. 1/4" sounds a little small, I'll try and dig about in my old tool box and find one to bend.

I'll make sure Johno stays away, last time he helped me with manifolds he came over, took half the engine apart then went home lol.

[spend]

IIRC there are about 4 you cant even get a ring spanner on (the flats are just too close to the tubes) and I'm pretty sure 2 of those you can only get an open ended half on for the same reason. This is why people advocate the ARP bolts, the smaller heads allow you to get a tool on and more leverage on.

Dave

[Griff Boy]

Ballistic Banana said:

I got mine from ACT clicky

apparently you can change them without taking the whole manifold off. just undo lever away from engine slide old out and slid new in. I havent tried it myself but have heard that it can be done that way.

BB

Hi,

Just to clarify this, as I need to change my manifold gaskets as well, is the version from ACT the composite version you all reccomend? and if so which kit do I order - ACTMS17 or ACTMS22 ? Does anyone know if they supply the revised bolt head options as well?

Final question, being a mechanical numpty is this a job I can do myself? Has anyone done a guide for the project?

cheers

Ian

[that daddy]

ARP bolts are a must the heads are 3/8 much easier to spanner,i have just used them with quality Reinz exhaust gaskets.I purchased the Victor Reinz gaskets from Ian on here,ill be back with hes EMAIL ADDRESS,he does the ARP bolts too.

[seasider]

Griff Boy said:

Final question, being a mechanical numpty is this a job I can do myself? Has anyone done a guide for the project?

as long as you have double jointed elbows and lots of sticky plasters


Seriously, yes, its just big meccano even Burriana could do it

Edited by seasider on Friday 16th February 08:59

[talkwrench]

Al "Jag Head Gasket Boy" Burriana?



Oh, come on! I know its simple but.....

[GreenV8S]

johno said:

I have to contest ARP studs though .... If you're not careful you'll upreade very bolt.

I take your point, but this is not just replacing bolts for the sake of it. The ARP bolts really do make the job much easier and are well worth using.

[that daddy]

yes Green v8s,i got those ARP bolts on yours and others recommendation and they are a far better job,cheap too.Highly recommended must have.

[barreti]

If you don't mind I'll give you the benefit of a couple of tips from my recent work.

Watch out for the bolt lengths as you take them out. I'm SURE I had at least one bolt which was shorter than the others and had to put an extra split washer on when I put the new ARB bolts on mine.
Get a bit of card or wood and drill some 9.5mm holes in it and as the bolts come out put them into it like this


When you've got the manifolds off, run the bolts in and out of their holes a couple of times to clean them and the threads up. Watch for any odd angles as they go in so you know how they fit.
A bit of Copaslip on the bolts when they go back in will help get them out in the future.
Oh, to get to the OS bottom manifold bolts you'll probably have to take off the starter. If you do you will certainly need a short socket extention bar and one of these..


Most of all, good luck.

[that daddy]

Ian its a struggle,but i managed to leave starter in place and did all the bolts from above,but this kinda thing is what i do for a living, so if i cant then i need to look for another career.good post buy the way you cant beat good pics.

[GreenV8S]

I suspect that there must be more room on the V8S because it's far harder to get at them from below than from above. I do have to take the alternator off to get access underneath the manifold on that side though.

[That Daddy]

Ian baretti,slightly off topic is that paint finish on your chassis the electrox or have you overpainted that finish?looks clean.

[barreti]

Thats Electrox you can see, well spotted. Looks quite bright eh. The gumph that comes with it says you can polish it to a Zinc plate like appearance with wire wool! (although it does actually state "Electrolux can be polished..." )

[Paul V]

Cheers for the info Barreti.

What is electrox? Don't want to go too far with this but would like some better protection for the chassis.