Replacing Radiator
Discussion
Relatively easy to do.
You'll need both bonnets and grille off before you start.
Wait til car has cooled down!
Disconnect 2 rad fan plugs.
Place some form of drainage tray underneath.
Undo bolts holding rad.
7mm socket to undo worm fasteners from 2 hoses.
Catch what coolant you can and dispose of.
Get someone to help you lift it out (ideally). Fairly heavy and you don't wanna risk scratching anything!
Most important thing putting new one back in is using a vacuum tool to suck new coolant back in. This will eliminate air locks which will give you gurgling noises and won't cool the engine as efficiently.
You'll need both bonnets and grille off before you start.
Wait til car has cooled down!
Disconnect 2 rad fan plugs.
Place some form of drainage tray underneath.
Undo bolts holding rad.
7mm socket to undo worm fasteners from 2 hoses.
Catch what coolant you can and dispose of.
Get someone to help you lift it out (ideally). Fairly heavy and you don't wanna risk scratching anything!
Most important thing putting new one back in is using a vacuum tool to suck new coolant back in. This will eliminate air locks which will give you gurgling noises and won't cool the engine as efficiently.
Hi
I did mine about 2 months ago and it's pretty straight forward. I replaced mine with a leven Rad. The leven rad has a bleed nipple in the top left hand corner when looking from the from to remove air locks which I'm not sure the std one does - so follow previous advice. The one thing that took the most time was getting the front bonnet off. There isn't much room to turn the allan key to remove the two bolts holding this on. My advice would be get a rachet allan device as it took me nearly 45 mins to remove these two bolts !!! (they were a bit rusty). Be a bit carefull disconnecting the fans from the wiring loom as the connectors are a bit "delicate". The fans and fan housing are removed after the rad in taken out of the car (yup you guessed - I tried with rad in situ - doh !).
Last thing - replace your top hose ( left hand when looking from front of car). This hose tends to catch the body work over time and can be worn. Mine was quite thin in places.
Good luck
Cheers
Phil
I did mine about 2 months ago and it's pretty straight forward. I replaced mine with a leven Rad. The leven rad has a bleed nipple in the top left hand corner when looking from the from to remove air locks which I'm not sure the std one does - so follow previous advice. The one thing that took the most time was getting the front bonnet off. There isn't much room to turn the allan key to remove the two bolts holding this on. My advice would be get a rachet allan device as it took me nearly 45 mins to remove these two bolts !!! (they were a bit rusty). Be a bit carefull disconnecting the fans from the wiring loom as the connectors are a bit "delicate". The fans and fan housing are removed after the rad in taken out of the car (yup you guessed - I tried with rad in situ - doh !).
Last thing - replace your top hose ( left hand when looking from front of car). This hose tends to catch the body work over time and can be worn. Mine was quite thin in places.
Good luck
Cheers
Phil
P7 TUS said:
Has anyone tried to replace the Rad on a Mk1 Tuscan. Just purchased one from Racing Green and going to give it a go this weekend. Any tips would be great.
Just had a stone pentrate middle of rad on my tusc II, I have been told it is poss aluminium, was yours? if so any idea on price? Or can they be re-cored?
Cheers
Richie
TV05CAN said:
P7 TUS said:
Has anyone tried to replace the Rad on a Mk1 Tuscan. Just purchased one from Racing Green and going to give it a go this weekend. Any tips would be great.
Just had a stone pentrate middle of rad on my tusc II, I have been told it is poss aluminium, was yours? if so any idea on price? Or can they be re-cored?
Cheers
Richie
£217.00 from Racing Green (standard not alloy). However I had to return my old one to them.
Give leven tech a call their alloy rad i think is around £350.
They can be re-cored, however I think its best to spend a bit more and get a new one
Edited by P7 TUS on Tuesday 24th April 09:43
P7 TUS said:
TV05CAN said:
P7 TUS said:
Has anyone tried to replace the Rad on a Mk1 Tuscan. Just purchased one from Racing Green and going to give it a go this weekend. Any tips would be great.
Just had a stone pentrate middle of rad on my tusc II, I have been told it is poss aluminium, was yours? if so any idea on price? Or can they be re-cored?
Cheers
Richie
£217.00 from Racing Green (standard not alloy). However I had to return my old one to them.
Give leven tech a call their alloy rad i think is around £350.
They can be re-cored, however I think its best to spend a bit more and get a new one
Edited by P7 TUS on Tuesday 24th April 09:43
The earlier Tuscan rads can be re-cored however I belive the later ones with the plastic ends can't.
P7 TUS said:
TV05CAN said:
P7 TUS said:
Has anyone tried to replace the Rad on a Mk1 Tuscan. Just purchased one from Racing Green and going to give it a go this weekend. Any tips would be great.
Just had a stone pentrate middle of rad on my tusc II, I have been told it is poss aluminium, was yours? if so any idea on price? Or can they be re-cored?
Cheers
Richie
£217.00 from Racing Green (standard not alloy). However I had to return my old one to them.
Give leven tech a call their alloy rad i think is around £350.
They can be re-cored, however I think its best to spend a bit more and get a new one
Edited by P7 TUS on Tuesday 24th April 09:43
Thanks for help guys, not as bad as I thought, may as well get new one, especially as Le-Mans is getting nearer, looks like your Tusc is Cham blue also, can`t see from exhaust pic,
southgate said:
Relatively easy to do.
You'll need both bonnets and grille off before you start.
Wait til car has cooled down!
Disconnect 2 rad fan plugs.
Place some form of drainage tray underneath.
Undo bolts holding rad.
7mm socket to undo worm fasteners from 2 hoses.
Catch what coolant you can and dispose of.
Get someone to help you lift it out (ideally). Fairly heavy and you don't wanna risk scratching anything!
Most important thing putting new one back in is using a vacuum tool to suck new coolant back in. This will eliminate air locks which will give you gurgling noises and won't cool the engine as efficiently.
You'll need both bonnets and grille off before you start.
Wait til car has cooled down!
Disconnect 2 rad fan plugs.
Place some form of drainage tray underneath.
Undo bolts holding rad.
7mm socket to undo worm fasteners from 2 hoses.
Catch what coolant you can and dispose of.
Get someone to help you lift it out (ideally). Fairly heavy and you don't wanna risk scratching anything!
Most important thing putting new one back in is using a vacuum tool to suck new coolant back in. This will eliminate air locks which will give you gurgling noises and won't cool the engine as efficiently.
Just finished replacing my alloy rad and I can not find a bleed screw on the engine side of the thermostat. There is one on the top front of the rad, which is OK to get the air out of the rad, but what bout the engine. There must be a bleed butterfly thingy like there is on the V8`s but dammed if I can find it, dare`nt run it up till I find a soulution, I am tempted to loosen the return side of the heater hose as that is the highest point, any suggestions? I dont have a vacuum tool, unless the penis enlargment tool that I no longer need will do the trick........ooooooops dammmm I let that one slip
quick where is the delete button. Need to replace the rad on my T2, but there's a pipe union (for the air-con by the looks of it) right in front of the one of the mounting tabs. I can get the nut off but the hard pipework prevents the rad from being lifted, and there's not enough give in the hardpipes to move them sufficiently.
Is there a trick I'm missing, or should I just set myself up to lose all my refridgerant?
Is there a trick I'm missing, or should I just set myself up to lose all my refridgerant?
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