100 amp fuse link

[pupp]

Anyone know if the 100 amp bit is the blow rating or the flow rating?

Any anyone know if the little housings for them are still available (or if the thing can just be done away with... my preference)?

[that daddy]

i tell you what would replace this a treat if you want to keep a main fuse,honda accord/civic holder fuse assy,circa 1974/1981 just the ticket,and probably still available, Honda keep there parts available for ages.

[The AJP Griff]

pupp said:

Anyone know if the 100 amp bit is the blow rating or the flow rating?

Any anyone know if the little housings for them are still available (or if the thing can just be done away with... my preference)?

It should be the flow rating.Once over 100amps,how quickly it will blow will depend on how much over this value the current is,condition of fuse,conditions etc

[david beer]

I replaced the entire wire with a soldered fuse so as to remove the weak link, these do not blow(break) because of excess current ! Half way house would be to replace the short length from the starter to the fuse with a soldered fuse one end and just one bolt on the other end.

Edited by david beer on Saturday 24th February 19:25

[pupp]

david beer said:

I replaced the entire wire with a soldered fuse so as to remove the weak link, these do not blow because of excess current ! Half way house would be to replace the short length from the starter to the fuse with a soldered fuse one end and just one bolt on the other end.

Sorry David... I'm not that up on sparky stuff, what's a soldered fuse when it's at home? (apols for silly Q)

[david beer]

The standard fuse has two bolts, two crimped connectors, four "weak links". Take a 100 amp fuse and solder the wires direct onto the fuse, no weak links, guaranteed never to go again. All you need is some nice cable and a good soldering iron. Or if you want to stay awake at night, just bolt the two connectors together and forget the fuse !

[spend]

Why dont you just stick in a midi fuse ~ much more durable, or even better shift it inside the cabin like the latest cars?

Dave

PS On 2nd thoughts doesnt that screw up the power take off for your kits David?

Edited by spend on Saturday 24th February 20:32

[Paulathome]

The hundred amp fuse assembly is available from clever trevor.
Go to Chimaera/ electrical stuff.
Here's the address.
Cheers
Paul
www.clever-trevor.net/

[pupp]

Cheers for the replies guys... ok, what eventuality is this fuse protecting against? I may be wrong but I'm sure other cars/bikes I've had/got haven't got anything similar and I understand some early Grifs/Chimps do without?

[david beer]

[quote=spend]Why dont you just stick in a midi fuse ~ much more durable, or even better shift it inside the cabin like the latest cars?

Dave

PS On 2nd thoughts doesnt that screw up the power take off for your kits David?

To move the alternator fuse to inside would be a big job, do the latest cars really have it it inside ? And no. i take nothing from the alternator to starter cable ,only the main supply for the starter.
I think i know where you are coming from though !

[spend]

Supposedly the alternator, but TVR seem to put the fusebox 'downstream' of the alt in most installations, peops have reported other installations (in cabin). LR started deploying it ( 95/6 onwards IIRC ) between the alt & battery. Itis a common site ~ albeit as a maxi fuse ~ in modern cars.

Dave

[pupp]

spend said:

Supposedly the alternator, but TVR seem to put the fusebox 'downstream' of the alt in most installations, peops have reported other installations (in cabin). LR started deploying it ( 95/6 onwards IIRC ) between the alt & battery. Itis a common site ~ albeit as a maxi fuse ~ in modern cars.

Dave

Protect the alternator from what exactly... short? surge?

Sorry, making hard work of this I know....

[spend]

david beer said:

To move the alternator fuse to inside would be a big job, do the latest cars really have it it inside ?

It wasnt a big job in my case... Even without the fuse cabling went
Batery ===big red==== starter post === 2 x 50a N == alt ===== fusebox
I simply removed the starter to alt cabling, and used the alt - cabin cables to charge the battery, then added short battery to fusebox (as per LR wiring!) Only discovered this melee when incorporating oil temp sensor cabling into the engine loom a few years ago (and TBH couldn't believe it)

I've looked at several cars & it seemed to me like the few I saw with internal fuses were all later (but mine is v. early anyway)

david beer said:

And no. i take nothing from the alternator to starter cable ,only the main supply for the starter.
I think i know where you are coming from though !

OK, since that is connected to the battery directly ~ I just assumed you would take off supply behind the protection of the fuse. Or do you give welding tutorials as a sideline

Dave

[david beer]

Fuse ! no need, direct to any old good positive supply, the cable will eventually melt anyway.