Clutches-what's the latest flavour?

[The AJP Griff]

Hi all,i'm wondering what clutch to go for,and have come across two brands,both of which sound good,so i'm looking for recommendations please.The clutches i'm considering are a Superclutch and a Raceproved one.My priority is how light it is to use,as i'm thinking of my wife primarily.I would choose a lighter clutch that only lasted 15k,over a heavy one which lasted 30k for example.Having owned both a 4 litre Tuscan and 3 RV8 TVR's,i'm really after the featherlight tuscan style as much as poss.All experiences greatly appreciated,cheers,Mike

Edited by The AJP Griff on Saturday 24th February 22:04

[Guillotine]

Hey mike,

anything thats raceproved will be effin heavy. it depends mainly on the release plate, so I would guess std cerby kit would be best, but many are going for centre slave superclutches atm due to availability.

andy
monster

[The AJP Griff]

Cheers Andy.Anyone else had experiences of either of these brands of clutch please?

[mad mark]

Guillotine said:

Hey mike,

anything thats raceproved will be effin heavy. it depends mainly on the release plate, so I would guess std cerby kit would be best, but many are going for centre slave superclutches atm due to availability.

andy
monster

Totally disagree with you there.
The clutches from Raceproved / Clever Trevor are, if not lighter than standard are the same as. But with apparently a higher clamping rate. And will far out last the standard equipment.
I suggest you give them a call and explain your requirements as they may have different options available to suit your needs.
http://raceproved.hintonmedia.net/
www.clever-trevor.net

[amazon]

Have literally just had a Raceproved fitted, collected the car on Friday. Feels great. Not heavy. Smooth as butter. Okay it's only been three days, but I have clocked up 300 odd miles. Hope that helps you with your decision.

[Guillotine]

Aha, just looked up raceproved...and it isn't really is it. race proved that is.

trade name for general TVR sales, if its tilton it'll depend on type/material/loading.

I'd guess its an organic with light friction plate spring hub.
many aftermarket ones available now as factory spares are rare.

Tiltons fine as a make. one of the better ones really

andy
monster

[mad mark]

I think jools will be better at explaining the materials than me.

[Guillotine]

organic = standard type material. gives good slip for ease of take up
sintered = metal material. very strong and light. race use only. take up is immediate (mine)
metalised = combined material. inbetween the above. not so harsh, but still sharp. track/race use.

anything other than organic is a nightmare on the road.

"heavy" bit comes from the spring plate/hub that pushes the plate onto the flywheel.
more power = more spring = heavier.

so long as you stay with a standard sized clutch an organic will do fine. race cluches are smalle to reduced weight and momentum as you can use a lightweight flywheel etc giving more ATW power and accelleration.

getting away from the point tho, std type replacement organic clutch by a main manufacturer like Tilon/Helix will be fine on an AJP. not hard to hold 400bhp on a full size cluch. they'll also be cheaper than original unless you are replacing the plate too. even then, still maybe.

andy
sorry for the earlier confusion. My Goof.

[jensena]

RaceProved and Clever Trevor clutches are one and the same, and I've heard nothing but good reports about them.

[Cooky]

Guillotine said:

organic = standard type material. gives good slip for ease of take up
sintered = metal material. very strong and light. race use only. take up is immediate (mine)
metalised = combined material. inbetween the above. not so harsh, but still sharp. track/race use.

anything other than organic is a nightmare on the road.

"heavy" bit comes from the spring plate/hub that pushes the plate onto the flywheel.
more power = more spring = heavier.

so long as you stay with a standard sized clutch an organic will do fine. race cluches are smalle to reduced weight and momentum as you can use a lightweight flywheel etc giving more ATW power and accelleration.

getting away from the point tho, std type replacement organic clutch by a main manufacturer like Tilon/Helix will be fine on an AJP. not hard to hold 400bhp on a full size cluch. they'll also be cheaper than original unless you are replacing the plate too. even then, still maybe.

andy
sorry for the earlier confusion. My Goof.

How much mileage will you get from metalised, in a road and track car? or should i say how many track days? and how 'difficult' is it on a daily driver?
having mine done and considering options...thanks

[Guillotine]

Cooky said:

Guillotine said:

organic = standard type material. gives good slip for ease of take up
sintered = metal material. very strong and light. race use only. take up is immediate (mine)
metalised = combined material. inbetween the above. not so harsh, but still sharp. track/race use.

anything other than organic is a nightmare on the road.

"heavy" bit comes from the spring plate/hub that pushes the plate onto the flywheel.
more power = more spring = heavier.

so long as you stay with a standard sized clutch an organic will do fine. race cluches are smalle to reduced weight and momentum as you can use a lightweight flywheel etc giving more ATW power and accelleration.

getting away from the point tho, std type replacement organic clutch by a main manufacturer like Tilon/Helix will be fine on an AJP. not hard to hold 400bhp on a full size cluch. they'll also be cheaper than original unless you are replacing the plate too. even then, still maybe.

andy
sorry for the earlier confusion. My Goof.

How much mileage will you get from metalised, in a road and track car? or should i say how many track days? and how 'difficult' is it on a daily driver?
having mine done and considering options...thanks

again, it depends on the clutch assembly. to get 400bhp thru a 7" clutch with a balanced a lightened flywheel - I had to go to twin plate Race AP. Its fantastic on the track. bites like feck and don't let go...ever...jumping kerbs etc. mainly went that route due to better accelleration/power as i said earlier.

on the road its a nightmare. not as bad as when we ran fully sintered triple (that was a switch, cold or hot) but its still a nightmare causing loads of judder and only two or three hits before it heats enough to be a switch too. awful in traffic but mine s set up for track.

on a normal clutch, single plate, full size (9"+) a metalised should be ok, it'll just be a touch more "nippy" but to be honest theres no point as the std cluch is fine. getting this wrong is one of the worst mistakes you can make in driveability, it can ruin your drive!
someone earlier said that he had one of the "raceproved" clutches (a Tilton one by all accounts and you can buy them direct and cheaper) checkout the www.demon-tweaks.co.uk spec sheets. so if he's happy with it i'd go with that.

the confusion only came with the name "raceproved" if its actually race spec...see above.

Edited by Guillotine on Monday 26th February 08:05

[brooksie]

I have to say the level of service you get at Clever Trevor (i've been dealing with Keith Burgess) is quite simply 2nd to none, they have been absolutely fantastic with me, thoroughly reccomended.

Steve

[southendpier]

I'm running a Raceproved AP rebuild put in last Monday. I have been impressed with it's light and smooth operation. It is just taking a while to bed in so I am getting a litle vibration when it starts to bite. This will get better with a few miles under the clock I'm sure. Maybe I am being too gentle with my left foot! Cerbera clutches for fecks sake!!

[jensena]

brooksie said:

I have to say the level of service you get at Clever Trevor (i've been dealing with Keith Burgess) is quite simply 2nd to none, they have been absolutely fantastic with me, thoroughly reccomended.

Steve

I'll second that - They really do give excellent service.