Servicing To-Do list
Discussion
I'm about to take my '98 Griffith 500 for its annual service. The car was services before I bought it last year and since then I have replaced the sump gasket so its had new oil. This is the list I have compiled so far :
Engine Mounts check
Rear Diff bush's check
MOT
Full Service including :
Oil
Brake Fluid
wheel alignment
Gearbox & Diff oil
Waxoil
Drive belt
Main Fuse check/replace
Plug Leads check/replace
Anything else anyone would add ??? The car is running great but what else needs checking on a 9 year old car ???
Engine Mounts check
Rear Diff bush's check
MOT
Full Service including :
Oil
Brake Fluid
wheel alignment
Gearbox & Diff oil
Waxoil
Drive belt
Main Fuse check/replace
Plug Leads check/replace
Anything else anyone would add ??? The car is running great but what else needs checking on a 9 year old car ???
Errr if the place doing the servicing doesn't know what to do, should they be servicing the car?
The servicing schedule is in the bible. I think it is also on the Griffith Pages.
Apart from the waxoyl, these are included in the standard schedules.
The servicing schedule is in the bible. I think it is also on the Griffith Pages.
Apart from the waxoyl, these are included in the standard schedules.
Edited by shpub on Sunday 25th February 09:39
Steve, its the "extra" things to do/check/replace that I'm interested in. For example, I read a comment that the main fuse should be changed once per year - good idea or not ? Should HT leads be replaced every 6 years regardless of mileage ? get my drift ??
Edited by esdavey on Sunday 25th February 10:03
I understand.
I'm all for checking everything and yes if it only costs a few pounds, it might be worth changing the fuse or alternatively keep a spare in the car.
The problem is the costs can quickly ramp up if everything gets changed on a 'irrespective of mileage' basis. A good garage should be able to give advise on what to change or where things may need replacing.
I'm all for checking everything and yes if it only costs a few pounds, it might be worth changing the fuse or alternatively keep a spare in the car.
The problem is the costs can quickly ramp up if everything gets changed on a 'irrespective of mileage' basis. A good garage should be able to give advise on what to change or where things may need replacing.
You obviously have not suffered the "car won't start because the battery is flat/alternator is not charging and I'm stuck in the middle of nowhere" problem caused by the exposed 100AMP fuse that protects the alternator failing due to corrosion?
Neither have I but many have, and the precaution of changing it regularly is a small price compared to the potential hassle it can cause.
Neither have I but many have, and the precaution of changing it regularly is a small price compared to the potential hassle it can cause.
as was the person who put the fuse where it is... The housings have been known to crack & fall apart when trying to replace the fuse ~ inspection is a wise precaution IMHO. esdavey said:
Steve, its the "extra" things to do/check/replace that I'm interested in. For example, I read a comment that the main fuse should be changed once per year - good idea or not ? Should HT leads be replaced every 6 years regardless of mileage ? get my drift ??
Edited by esdavey on Sunday 25th February 10:03
Change the plug leads for some nice fancy ones! The Magnacour leads I put on dear old GTF made a big difference to the performance, and a recent W Lancs rolling-road session showed a 30HP increase on a Chimeara when the old std leads were swapped for a nice new set of Magnacours ("borrowed" off the RO's 400SE).
You can do this job yourself - saving the labour to offset the cost of better leads!
Neil (bruised and battered after changing radiator fans today, etc)
shpub said:
Errr if the place doing the servicing doesn't know what to do, should they be servicing the car?
The servicing schedule is in the bible. I think it is also on the Griffith Pages.
Apart from the waxoyl, these are included in the standard schedules.
The servicing schedule is in the bible. I think it is also on the Griffith Pages.
Apart from the waxoyl, these are included in the standard schedules.
Edited by shpub on Sunday 25th February 09:39
Having waxoyl'd my chassis last year, I now consider that to be a job well worth paying someone else to do!
spend said:
GreenV8S said:
Best to keep that pesky fuse in a dry, clean, vibration-free environment such as a shelf in the garage, then you KNOW it won't leave you stranded.
Are we saying just take the fuse out and bolt the two ends together
Have heard this is a quick fix if fuse has gone and you wanna get home. But remember seeing something before about just taking the bloody thing out completely. BB
It might reduce Teds traffic by 10%, not sure if that would be PC tho. 
It does seem to cause more trouble than its worth. A lot of other cars have alt fuses ~ just in a more sensible location ~ maybe it is legislative these days? That fuse holder is about the cheapest available as well ~ there are better quality replacements available (in fact those silconed studs that are live in the fusebox are for a midi/strip fuse - not much use without a cover tho)
Dave
It does seem to cause more trouble than its worth. A lot of other cars have alt fuses ~ just in a more sensible location ~ maybe it is legislative these days? That fuse holder is about the cheapest available as well ~ there are better quality replacements available (in fact those silconed studs that are live in the fusebox are for a midi/strip fuse - not much use without a cover tho)
Dave
Griffter said:
esdavey said:
Anything else anyone would add ???
Clean and copper grease all earths.
If they don't know to do so already they should be dropping the exhaust to check the propshaft UJ bolts and lubricate the UJs.
UJ's - a word to strike fear into the heart of any ex Wedge owner. I am sure I managed to access the propshaft UJ's on my Griff with the exhaust still in situ (using flexible nozzle on grease-gun - the one I bought to get at all the Uj's on the Wedge).
It is on the service schedule (Lubricate prop & check bolts are secure) for the "big" (24 mth) service.
esdavey said:
I read a comment that the main fuse should be changed once per year - good idea or not ?
yes, having had a breakdown in the fast lane of a French Autoroute and then two years later find the fuse broken again it's now on the annual service list (it's only 10p). What's shocking is that after only one year of use (5000miles) you can see that the old fuse is nearly broken again....
jonathant said:
esdavey said:
I read a comment that the main fuse should be changed once per year - good idea or not ?
yes, having had a breakdown in the fast lane of a French Autoroute and then two years later find the fuse broken again it's now on the annual service list (it's only 10p). What's shocking is that after only one year of use (5000miles) you can see that the old fuse is nearly broken again....
my 100 amp fuse holder is looking a bit gruesome.. can anyone point me at the replacement part.. pretty pls?
Ed
Id have a look at this:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dl
The Midi fuse holder is lot better quality than the one you have. The guy also sells the strip holder. You could go the whole hog and try a midi fuse in place of the strip fuse.
I have them albeit on the inside of my car.
Dave
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dl
The Midi fuse holder is lot better quality than the one you have. The guy also sells the strip holder. You could go the whole hog and try a midi fuse in place of the strip fuse.
I have them albeit on the inside of my car.
Dave
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