Discussion
4 speed...long gears....I didn't buy one as I changed down to 2nd in the wet....scared my young self at the time 
Would prefer late '88 in fact '89 model with the 5 speed box.
Totally iconic 911 for me,,,but sadly drive didn't live up to the dream.....try before you buy,,,,not totally trying to put you off,,,,best of luck
Would prefer late '88 in fact '89 model with the 5 speed box. Totally iconic 911 for me,,,but sadly drive didn't live up to the dream.....try before you buy,,,,not totally trying to put you off,,,,best of luck
craigw said:
any other suggestions gratefully received by the way.
Another vote for the turbo II, very refined and easy to live with, but drive it hard and oh my word ! I actually really enjoyed the 964 C4 I had as well bit livlier than the turbo under normal driving (but no bloody big turbo to kick you in the butt either)
If you dont want retro the 996 is a veritable bargin
craigw said:
chaps, anyone know much about these? performance etc. 1987 vintage, I fancy something retro!
I've been running one for a few years, so I know a bit about them I guess. Mine is a 1988 4speed. The 4 speed is faster than the 5 speed so I think it is a little lighter.
Gears: 4 speeds is enough, the powerband kicks in fully at 3000 and the rev limiter cuts in at around 7000. 1st is like regular cars 2nds, so treat it exactly as 2nd except you also pull away in it. Fourth is like most fifths, at 3000rpm you are already well above the national limit, remember this thing has a top speed only a little shy of 170mph.
Check baulking into 1st and synchro into 3rd - these are the known weak points. Change gear deliberately and softly - do not force or snap. Give the gearbox TIME, not pressure. If you match the revs well the time can be quite short, it's a very precise satifying mechanical 'slot' for each gear. When clicking into the next gear you put the throttle down AS you put the clutch back up. You don't drag the clutch (EVER), it is more of a timing thing as the turbo needs spooling up for the next gear. The clutch is very progressive. You WILL KNOW if you scorch it: unless you have no nose.
There is no synchro on reverse: allow for the (lay?) shaft still spinning and if you can't get it in declutch for another go. It's an aquired skill thing. As is the whole car I guess..
Even after years of driving one, when you get 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th right you still say 'shit this thing is fast' as you giggle uncontrollably.
Pads and rotors are fairly cheap. Derived from the 917 Le Mans racer (faster but lighter). They even have quick release pads
The (4 pot IIRC) calipers I suspect are not cheap! Injection is Bosch CIS K-Jetronic. All covered by the intercooler. Make sure it starts without problems at cold, half warm (after standing for 5 mins) and when warm (after 10 mins).
Make sure the warmup drives without issue. CIS injection components are VERY expensive. It is also very economical and reliable, bred IIRC from racing systems.
Expect to feel uneven roads through the wheel. You'll hear the diff/gears but they should not be loud. Heating and cooling is a mystery that I explained in a earlier post. Check the heating works well, it involves a number of systems to be working too. Check it also switches off. Paint should be good. Avoid rusty cars.
Turbo lag.
Its big.
Realllllyyy big.
Always give yourself time at junctions to pull out, you have no power at low revs and if you wang it out with the clutch you may have a 300bhp wheelspin, which also gets you nowhere.. As for lifting off around corners, you can actually lisft off the throttle, providing the engine power does not decrease - i.e. on 2nd at 2.5k rpm power will be building, nudge off the throttle a little to slow the build rate. Pull your foot off the throttle completely and all boost and power instantly dies: hello hedge.
If you want it to feel like a Ferrari 360, keep the engine above 3000rpm and it turns into a scalded cat, very agile, responsive, fast, instant power.
Dashboard switchgear is amusingly places to add character. With the heated seats and aircooled heating it is ironically the ideal winter car. Except for the fat tyres etc.
Tyres are cheap - only 16" but look the business. To look after it properly you really need to budget a bargain barge worth of money every year at a good indy. Some years the barges are more highly specced then others.
HTH
They are amazing cars.
craigw said:
cool thanks guys.
I'm looking for a 2nd car to replace the XKR which I just sold. I tried a 3.2 SSE but (much as I love them) it just felt a little too pedestrian after the XKR & the RS4 & 6 I'm used to.
I'm looking for a 2nd car to replace the XKR which I just sold. I tried a 3.2 SSE but (much as I love them) it just felt a little too pedestrian after the XKR & the RS4 & 6 I'm used to.
Try a 928 GTS or a 928GT. Lovely 5 litre / 5.4 V8 engine, the GT (330hp) comes with a 5 speed close ratio box and will murder everything from a 996 C2 downwards. The GTS is available with a 5 speed or a very good 4 speed auto and also offers devastating performance. If you're coming from an XKR you will enjoy the refinement and long-legged cruising ability of the 928. Not to mention the V8 soundtrack.
Best of all (unlike 911s) £12k will buy you an absolute minter. Check out www.928.org.uk they have plenty for sale at the moment.
Joel
Personaly i'd go for:
Late 89 model
Avoid 4 speed
Try to find one with the turbo (K27) and intercooler replaced with the 965 versions.
Avoid cars with claims of more than 360bhp (i.e. chav mods) They are only a few that really have more.
Makesure it has original wheels.
Black/white/Red.
People want silly money for 930's so get your beating stick out (I have spare nails if needed). No need to spend more than 20k for a top condition car.
If you're feeling flash spend twice as much and get an SE or LE. Basically same car 10bhp more with or without flatnose. Worth 20k more, not in my book.
Late 89 model
Avoid 4 speed
Try to find one with the turbo (K27) and intercooler replaced with the 965 versions.
Avoid cars with claims of more than 360bhp (i.e. chav mods) They are only a few that really have more.
Makesure it has original wheels.
Black/white/Red.
People want silly money for 930's so get your beating stick out (I have spare nails if needed). No need to spend more than 20k for a top condition car.
If you're feeling flash spend twice as much and get an SE or LE. Basically same car 10bhp more with or without flatnose. Worth 20k more, not in my book.
craigw said:
brilliant, very very useful thank you.
Will it live outside happily ?
Will it live outside happily ?
No real reason why not, but you do not want to encourage rust, so damp places are a no no (my garage has a dehumidifier for mine. Heat exchangers are fairly expensive too.
Make sure the fresh air intake (back/centre of bonnet) is properly attached to the drain hose. You can test by tipping some water down and/or pulling up boot carpet.
It is actually a car that likes regular use, and you will master it much much better and quicker the more often you use it.
PS. Air conditioning never actually works on old 911s, so don't fail any on that. You need to change the 20ft of freon permeable hose to new barrier hose and then start of the other components, I'm not sure how many have had that done.
PPS. The interior changed in 1986, with much bigger vents.
Edited by Globulator on Thursday 1st March 17:22
hunttheshunt said:
Not sure he's given it a lot of thought but I would think mid twenties which would make it a bit of a bargain.
Happy to put you in touch if you like?
Happy to put you in touch if you like?
Mid twenties sound a little toppy to me,at this age will a cab still hold a premium over a coupe. I would think you could pick up decent coupe of this age for £18-20K
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