clutch slave cylinder
Discussion
Easy fix. $20 in parts (rebuild kit from RD).
Rachet, small long nose pliers (to remove the circ clip), open end wrench to bleed, and a friend to pump and hold the pedal while bleeding.
A small amount of Castrol LMA fluid $5.00/pint.
Skill level from 1-10, this is a 3 or 4.
Calvin 90 SE
Rachet, small long nose pliers (to remove the circ clip), open end wrench to bleed, and a friend to pump and hold the pedal while bleeding.
A small amount of Castrol LMA fluid $5.00/pint.
Skill level from 1-10, this is a 3 or 4.
Calvin 90 SE
I did my slave cylinder on my '89 non-SE back in 1998. Hopefully, you have worked with hydraulics before. There are several things I experienced and learned. Be sure the rubber parts are covered with fluid when reassembling to prevent tearing or scuffing. Be sure the dust boot is FULL of the red grease when installing the cover to prevent water intrusion and dirt. You will need three people to do the bleeding if you don't have a power bleeder. If you don't have a car pit and must raise the car, then you must keep the right side wheels on the ground and not raise the left too high. The front location of the bleed valve otherwise cannot remove air that gets trapped in the back end of the slave cylinder if the rear is raised.
The three people are needed to, 1. operate the bleed valve, 2. pump the pedal, and 3. keep the reservoir full. Note the U tube at the master cylinder a bubble formed there when you empty the system fluid must travel down to get out. If you stop to refill the reservoir, it rises back up to the U each time. So, with everyone in position, pump out at least a pint of fluid to get that bubble to the slave and out.
If you have not already replaced the red hose, now is the time. I have not but by cutting out and replacing with screen the two uncut triangles( leave about .5 inches of plastic and the moldings to maintain rigidity) of the engine bay pan, I provide sufficient air movement to keep the bay cool. Stevens used this system for cooling in his McLaren F1 design. Here in Louisiana I have not had Red Hose Syndrome since making the cuttings.
Hope this helps.
Bob Kumse
'89 nonSE
The three people are needed to, 1. operate the bleed valve, 2. pump the pedal, and 3. keep the reservoir full. Note the U tube at the master cylinder a bubble formed there when you empty the system fluid must travel down to get out. If you stop to refill the reservoir, it rises back up to the U each time. So, with everyone in position, pump out at least a pint of fluid to get that bubble to the slave and out.
If you have not already replaced the red hose, now is the time. I have not but by cutting out and replacing with screen the two uncut triangles( leave about .5 inches of plastic and the moldings to maintain rigidity) of the engine bay pan, I provide sufficient air movement to keep the bay cool. Stevens used this system for cooling in his McLaren F1 design. Here in Louisiana I have not had Red Hose Syndrome since making the cuttings.
Hope this helps.
Bob Kumse
'89 nonSE
Billy,
Forget the overhaul, get and install a new slave cylinder. The reason: Moisture wlll migrate to the low part of the system, this means the slave cylinder in the clutch hydraulic system. So, any moisture will collect in the lower portion of the slave cylinder bore where it is free to corrode the cylinder bore.
If you replace the internal rubber parts, this corrosion will wear and tear the new rubber seals and you'll be back where you started in no time.
You can sand the bore clean, but then the new seals will be undersized and will leak. You can have the cylinder re-bored, but this will cost just as much as a new cylinder when coupled with the cost of the rebuild kit, perhaps even a little more.
So, go new, replace the slave cylinder and be done with it. Happy Motoring! Jim'85TE
Forget the overhaul, get and install a new slave cylinder. The reason: Moisture wlll migrate to the low part of the system, this means the slave cylinder in the clutch hydraulic system. So, any moisture will collect in the lower portion of the slave cylinder bore where it is free to corrode the cylinder bore.
If you replace the internal rubber parts, this corrosion will wear and tear the new rubber seals and you'll be back where you started in no time.
You can sand the bore clean, but then the new seals will be undersized and will leak. You can have the cylinder re-bored, but this will cost just as much as a new cylinder when coupled with the cost of the rebuild kit, perhaps even a little more.
So, go new, replace the slave cylinder and be done with it. Happy Motoring! Jim'85TE
I've got some words about doing it on my website, www.adrianmugridge.co.uk Look in the GT3 section, then maintenance. It's not very difficult, the only hard bit was getting the cylinder off as a normal spanner tends to round of the nut if it's very tight.
Adrian
www.adrianmugridge.co.uk
Adrian
www.adrianmugridge.co.uk
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