Brake Pad Knocking/Clicking
Discussion
My car started to click a bit last night. It sounded like a CV joint at first. So I jacked up the rear of the car this morning. It looks and sounds like the inside brake pad on the rear left caliper is moving very slightly when I spin the wheel and causeing the clicking sound. Whats this all about? The little pins are in place and seam pretty tight. Do Cerbera rear brakes do this as the pad wears down? I do also have terrible brake juder so its possible that its all caused by a warped brake disk, although I was pretty sure the warped disk was on the front.
Any ideas? Im about 120 miles from home at the moment and would like to work out whats going on before the trek home.
Any ideas? Im about 120 miles from home at the moment and would like to work out whats going on before the trek home.
If you feel pulsing through the pedal, but not the steering wheel, it's the rears, if you can feel it through the wheel and the pedal, it's the fronts and possibly also the rears. The mostly likely cause of brake judder is pad deposits building up on the disc although warpage is possible too (also occurs on scoobies and evos which work their 320 mm discs hard).
I don't recall warped rear discs mentioned here, however the rear brakes do squeal sometimes and there are anti rattle shims to help with this I believe. With the pad deposits, one way to shift them is repeated hard braking - don't come completely to a stop though. It may be worth going up a grade of pad to do this (note you need to maintain the same pad composition when you do). To avoid pad deposits, don't leave your brakes on for extended periods when stationary. When the pads are hot - after say gentle braking down all the way down a long hill, this is when the transfer of pad material to the disc can occur.
Steve.
I don't recall warped rear discs mentioned here, however the rear brakes do squeal sometimes and there are anti rattle shims to help with this I believe. With the pad deposits, one way to shift them is repeated hard braking - don't come completely to a stop though. It may be worth going up a grade of pad to do this (note you need to maintain the same pad composition when you do). To avoid pad deposits, don't leave your brakes on for extended periods when stationary. When the pads are hot - after say gentle braking down all the way down a long hill, this is when the transfer of pad material to the disc can occur.
Steve.
Edited by Steve_T on Sunday 4th March 14:07
Since my car was serviced the rear pads knock. They are picking up somewhere on the disc and jumping about. Previously the dirt held them tight. As soon as I apply the smallest amount of brake pressure the noise stops, as they are held against the disc. The springs on the rear are useless, (think they came from a pen)and was considering putting a stronger pair of springs in, hopefully this will hold the pads better.
common problem with cerbs, drives you mad, easy to stop though, take the pads out and put heat resistant silcone on the back of the pads and on the thingy that pushes the pads to the discs and apply the handbrake for what its worth and leave overnight this will stop the pads jumping up and down
bill
bill
billy no brakes said:
common problem with cerbs, drives you mad, easy to stop though, take the pads out and put heat resistant silcone on the back of the pads and on the thingy that pushes the pads to the discs and apply the handbrake for what its worth and leave overnight this will stop the pads jumping up and down
bill
bill
Thanks I'll give that a try.
billy no brakes said:
common problem with cerbs, drives you mad, easy to stop though, take the pads out and put heat resistant silcone on the back of the pads and on the thingy that pushes the pads to the discs and apply the handbrake for what its worth and leave overnight this will stop the pads jumping up and down
bill
bill
ok, potentially daft questioon here, but...
What difference does applying the handbrake make here?
I realise you added a "fwiw", but aiui the cerb handbrake operates a drum-brake type affair withing the rear brakes rather than applying pads to discs, so wouldn't do anything here.
whatever said:
billy no brakes said:
common problem with cerbs, drives you mad, easy to stop though, take the pads out and put heat resistant silcone on the back of the pads and on the thingy that pushes the pads to the discs and apply the handbrake for what its worth and leave overnight this will stop the pads jumping up and down
bill
bill
ok, potentially daft questioon here, but...
What difference does applying the handbrake make here?
I realise you added a "fwiw", but aiui the cerb handbrake operates a drum-brake type affair withing the rear brakes rather than applying pads to discs, so wouldn't do anything here.
sorry done that in a bit of a rush it should say push the brake pedal so the pistons get pushed onto the pads might even be worth leaving a brick on it so that they stick together and apply the handbrake for what its worth
billy no brakes said:
whatever said:
billy no brakes said:
common problem with cerbs, drives you mad, easy to stop though, take the pads out and put heat resistant silcone on the back of the pads and on the thingy that pushes the pads to the discs and apply the handbrake for what its worth and leave overnight this will stop the pads jumping up and down
bill
bill
ok, potentially daft questioon here, but...
What difference does applying the handbrake make here?
I realise you added a "fwiw", but aiui the cerb handbrake operates a drum-brake type affair withing the rear brakes rather than applying pads to discs, so wouldn't do anything here.
sorry done that in a bit of a rush it should say push the brake pedal so the pistons get pushed onto the pads might even be worth leaving a brick on it so that they stick together and apply the handbrake for what its worth
Honestly, do you think you are an appropriate person to be giving advice here?
Julian64 said:
billy no brakes said:
whatever said:
billy no brakes said:
common problem with cerbs, drives you mad, easy to stop though, take the pads out and put heat resistant silcone on the back of the pads and on the thingy that pushes the pads to the discs and apply the handbrake for what its worth and leave overnight this will stop the pads jumping up and down
bill
bill
ok, potentially daft questioon here, but...
What difference does applying the handbrake make here?
I realise you added a "fwiw", but aiui the cerb handbrake operates a drum-brake type affair withing the rear brakes rather than applying pads to discs, so wouldn't do anything here.
sorry done that in a bit of a rush it should say push the brake pedal so the pistons get pushed onto the pads might even be worth leaving a brick on it so that they stick together and apply the handbrake for what its worth
Honestly, do you think you are an appropriate person to be giving advice here?
who me sir oh yes sir
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