need some help please
Discussion
picked up my wedge after 6 months winter storage i reconnected the battery and it started first time ( very surprised and pleased ). decided it need bits doing to it and started on it today so heres my questions.
1. is the radiator a tvr one or off something else? ( was easy to take off too!)
2. where is the 2 bolts that hold on the side skirts?
3. does any one know which diff or name is in a 86 350i mk2 i need to fit a new pinion seal?
4. all the plastic t pieces on the cooling system which goes from the swan neck to the header tank and inlet manifold are they tvr too or off rover. cant decide if they are supposed to be like that or some one has "modified" them. they broke when i removed the rad was very flimsy.
many thanks for all who reply gary.
1. is the radiator a tvr one or off something else? ( was easy to take off too!)
2. where is the 2 bolts that hold on the side skirts?
3. does any one know which diff or name is in a 86 350i mk2 i need to fit a new pinion seal?
4. all the plastic t pieces on the cooling system which goes from the swan neck to the header tank and inlet manifold are they tvr too or off rover. cant decide if they are supposed to be like that or some one has "modified" them. they broke when i removed the rad was very flimsy.
many thanks for all who reply gary.
Rad. is modified Land Rover / Range Rover - you can usually re-use the end tanks, as these will have coolant connections specific to TVR, plus the brackets are specific to TVR I believe.
The diff. should be a Salisbury Powr Lok LSD (Jag XJ's of the 70's etc.). Is the pinion seal leaking because the nut has loosened?
7.
The diff. should be a Salisbury Powr Lok LSD (Jag XJ's of the 70's etc.). Is the pinion seal leaking because the nut has loosened?
7.
The plastic t-pieces are a mare to find - some use plumbing parts instead - my mech could have got me stainless ones made but in the end did a nifty divert for the broken one and it hasn't been a problem since.
Agree that best rad solution is re-coring your existing one - mine was about 150 notes
Agree that best rad solution is re-coring your existing one - mine was about 150 notes
The sill covers are held on by 3 studs each. two each side in recess in the outer side of the footwells. May need to peel back carpet and foam to get at the nuts.
Third is just in front of the rear wheel arch. You'll need to remove the rear quarter panels (with the interior lights and speakers in) to get at them. you might als oneed to unbolt the seatbelt reel.
Im afraid its not easy to get at the rear ones. Really, really tight. I used lots of wobble extensions to reach down past the parcel shelf. You may also want a deep reach 10mm socket, as there tends to be a lot of thread sticking out the top of the nut.
Im afraid it gets worse.
The studs and nuts are mild steel, and they RUST SOLID!!
I had to cut them off with a bimetallic hacky blade between the body and the sill cover. Not nice, and damages the paintwork in there! The alternative is that the spreader washers under the nits might be SO rusty that you can just thump them with a hammer, and the they might collaspe into a pile of dust, leaving the nut to fall through the GRP, cos the hole is big enough for the nut to go through no probs. the front fixings did this on mine, and by a combination of hacksawing the rear studs, and crumbly washers on the front studs, they came off OK. In the end!!
Good news is that you can get 316grade Stainless ones from Bighead Bonding Fasteners of Bournemouth. www.bighead.co.uk
Bad news is theyre a pound or so each, and their minimum order value is 50 quid.
Still, you can replace the manky MS ones with SS if youve got a poprivet gun.
I must say, they are a pain to replace, but its good knowing that they'll never rust again!
The same fasteners also hold both bumpers on, aswell as other random bits of GRP.
Third is just in front of the rear wheel arch. You'll need to remove the rear quarter panels (with the interior lights and speakers in) to get at them. you might als oneed to unbolt the seatbelt reel.
Im afraid its not easy to get at the rear ones. Really, really tight. I used lots of wobble extensions to reach down past the parcel shelf. You may also want a deep reach 10mm socket, as there tends to be a lot of thread sticking out the top of the nut.
Im afraid it gets worse.
The studs and nuts are mild steel, and they RUST SOLID!!
I had to cut them off with a bimetallic hacky blade between the body and the sill cover. Not nice, and damages the paintwork in there! The alternative is that the spreader washers under the nits might be SO rusty that you can just thump them with a hammer, and the they might collaspe into a pile of dust, leaving the nut to fall through the GRP, cos the hole is big enough for the nut to go through no probs. the front fixings did this on mine, and by a combination of hacksawing the rear studs, and crumbly washers on the front studs, they came off OK. In the end!!
Good news is that you can get 316grade Stainless ones from Bighead Bonding Fasteners of Bournemouth. www.bighead.co.uk
Bad news is theyre a pound or so each, and their minimum order value is 50 quid.
Still, you can replace the manky MS ones with SS if youve got a poprivet gun.
I must say, they are a pain to replace, but its good knowing that they'll never rust again!
The same fasteners also hold both bumpers on, aswell as other random bits of GRP.
Edited by ed_crouch on Sunday 11th March 19:25
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