Hopefully new to TVR...
Discussion
Hello all,
I'm currently looking for something to replace my MR2 Turbo. It can be a bit of a handful at times so I thought what better to upgrade to than something thats even more of a handful...a TVR!
Before I take the plunge though I'd like to find out what its like owning a TVR (I'd most probably be looking at a Cerbera).
What are the running costs like? (honestly!;-))
Fuel consumption when out of a spirited run and just general driving?
Actually how reliable/unreliable are they?
Do you ever get to the stage of contemplating not driving it incase something else goes wrong with it (as I've found on occasion with the MR2!)?
What's part availability and cost like? Do most of you do the work yourselves or is it more of a manufacturers job?
I've heard that servicing costs are huge, do most enthusiats use an independant specialist that is more of a reasonalble price?
Hopefully I'll hear all the answers I want to hear so I'll end up owning the noise and look that I'm always jealous of and always stare at rumbling up the street!
Cheers
Chris
I'm currently looking for something to replace my MR2 Turbo. It can be a bit of a handful at times so I thought what better to upgrade to than something thats even more of a handful...a TVR!
Before I take the plunge though I'd like to find out what its like owning a TVR (I'd most probably be looking at a Cerbera).
What are the running costs like? (honestly!;-))
Fuel consumption when out of a spirited run and just general driving?
Actually how reliable/unreliable are they?
Do you ever get to the stage of contemplating not driving it incase something else goes wrong with it (as I've found on occasion with the MR2!)?
What's part availability and cost like? Do most of you do the work yourselves or is it more of a manufacturers job?
I've heard that servicing costs are huge, do most enthusiats use an independant specialist that is more of a reasonalble price?
Hopefully I'll hear all the answers I want to hear so I'll end up owning the noise and look that I'm always jealous of and always stare at rumbling up the street!
Cheers
Chris
willyonka said:
How do you find the chim compared to the tubby?
It must feel completely different due to the weight distribution and power delivery.
Need I ask you which you prefer?
How do find the running costs differ?
thanks
chris
It must feel completely different due to the weight distribution and power delivery.
Need I ask you which you prefer?
How do find the running costs differ?
thanks
chris
Chris
The Chim handles in some ways the same as the tubby, you have to be careful with the rear end, but I do find that the chim sticks really well, I had a 4ltr one and have just upgraded to a 5ltr one. Running costs on the chim I dont find to bad, its wasn't a massive increase. The 4 ltr one I had for 3 years and only ever let me down once on 30000 miles and that was the clutch that went. Plan for 2 services a year depending on your miles and just make sure you get one thats not rusty :-)
I went for the Chim as i wanted a convertible and chims and griffs seem to be the cheaper of the tvr range for serviceing and repairs etc..
Chris
willyonka said:
Hello all,
I'm currently looking for something to replace my MR2 Turbo. It can be a bit of a handful at times so I thought what better to upgrade to than something thats even more of a handful...a TVR!
Before I take the plunge though I'd like to find out what its like owning a TVR (I'd most probably be looking at a Cerbera).
What are the running costs like? (honestly!;-))
Fuel consumption when out of a spirited run and just general driving?
Actually how reliable/unreliable are they?
Do you ever get to the stage of contemplating not driving it incase something else goes wrong with it (as I've found on occasion with the MR2!)?
What's part availability and cost like? Do most of you do the work yourselves or is it more of a manufacturers job?
I've heard that servicing costs are huge, do most enthusiats use an independant specialist that is more of a reasonalble price?
Hopefully I'll hear all the answers I want to hear so I'll end up owning the noise and look that I'm always jealous of and always stare at rumbling up the street!
Cheers
Chris
I'm currently looking for something to replace my MR2 Turbo. It can be a bit of a handful at times so I thought what better to upgrade to than something thats even more of a handful...a TVR!
Before I take the plunge though I'd like to find out what its like owning a TVR (I'd most probably be looking at a Cerbera).
What are the running costs like? (honestly!;-))
Fuel consumption when out of a spirited run and just general driving?
Actually how reliable/unreliable are they?
Do you ever get to the stage of contemplating not driving it incase something else goes wrong with it (as I've found on occasion with the MR2!)?
What's part availability and cost like? Do most of you do the work yourselves or is it more of a manufacturers job?
I've heard that servicing costs are huge, do most enthusiats use an independant specialist that is more of a reasonalble price?
Hopefully I'll hear all the answers I want to hear so I'll end up owning the noise and look that I'm always jealous of and always stare at rumbling up the street!
Cheers
Chris
Don't think about it just do it although personally i'd go for the Tuscan so that you can enjoy the odd moment of sunshine that we get.
H
cmr2payne said:
willyonka said:
How do you find the chim compared to the tubby?
It must feel completely different due to the weight distribution and power delivery.
Need I ask you which you prefer?
How do find the running costs differ?
thanks
chris
It must feel completely different due to the weight distribution and power delivery.
Need I ask you which you prefer?
How do find the running costs differ?
thanks
chris
Chris
The Chim handles in some ways the same as the tubby, you have to be careful with the rear end, but I do find that the chim sticks really well, I had a 4ltr one and have just upgraded to a 5ltr one. Running costs on the chim I dont find to bad, its wasn't a massive increase. The 4 ltr one I had for 3 years and only ever let me down once on 30000 miles and that was the clutch that went. Plan for 2 services a year depending on your miles and just make sure you get one thats not rusty :-)
I went for the Chim as i wanted a convertible and chims and griffs seem to be the cheaper of the tvr range for serviceing and repairs etc..
Chris
2 services a year, what kind of prices are these and what do these include.
I prefer to do the work on my cars myself as then I know its done correctly (or as correctly as I can! heh).
Do you use your car as a daily driver or weekend car?
cheers
kippax said:
willyonka said:
Hello all,
I'm currently looking for something to replace my MR2 Turbo. It can be a bit of a handful at times so I thought what better to upgrade to than something thats even more of a handful...a TVR!
Before I take the plunge though I'd like to find out what its like owning a TVR (I'd most probably be looking at a Cerbera).
What are the running costs like? (honestly!;-))
Fuel consumption when out of a spirited run and just general driving?
Actually how reliable/unreliable are they?
Do you ever get to the stage of contemplating not driving it incase something else goes wrong with it (as I've found on occasion with the MR2!)?
What's part availability and cost like? Do most of you do the work yourselves or is it more of a manufacturers job?
I've heard that servicing costs are huge, do most enthusiats use an independant specialist that is more of a reasonalble price?
Hopefully I'll hear all the answers I want to hear so I'll end up owning the noise and look that I'm always jealous of and always stare at rumbling up the street!
Cheers
Chris
I'm currently looking for something to replace my MR2 Turbo. It can be a bit of a handful at times so I thought what better to upgrade to than something thats even more of a handful...a TVR!
Before I take the plunge though I'd like to find out what its like owning a TVR (I'd most probably be looking at a Cerbera).
What are the running costs like? (honestly!;-))
Fuel consumption when out of a spirited run and just general driving?
Actually how reliable/unreliable are they?
Do you ever get to the stage of contemplating not driving it incase something else goes wrong with it (as I've found on occasion with the MR2!)?
What's part availability and cost like? Do most of you do the work yourselves or is it more of a manufacturers job?
I've heard that servicing costs are huge, do most enthusiats use an independant specialist that is more of a reasonalble price?
Hopefully I'll hear all the answers I want to hear so I'll end up owning the noise and look that I'm always jealous of and always stare at rumbling up the street!
Cheers
Chris
Don't think about it just do it although personally i'd go for the Tuscan so that you can enjoy the odd moment of sunshine that we get.
H
I'm TRYING to do the sensible thing and find out everything i can about tiv ownership before jumping in BUT I see the cars and hear the sound they make and find it almost impossible to resist!
So have you got a Tuscan?
Thanks for the help and quick responses...feel at home already...maybe that means I HAVE to buy one ;-)
Hi and welcome,
First don't rush at the first one and rue the day.
It's actually quite pleasant to take your time and inspect a number of cars first - it gives you a feel for what available in terms of condition and price.
Secondly, even if your aren't a 'clubby' type, do join the TVR car club, and look at Pistonheads classifieds, you will get a wider spectrum of cars available.
Do go along to some of the area evening or weekend meets and talk to people there - they are all pretty enthusiastic and will give you valuable first hand experience of what to look for. There are one or two specialists who will source a car for you and do detailed inspections - they can save you from financial black hole cars.
From my own experience of 4 years ownership, I haven't broken down but I wouldn't like to think of it as daily driver. Parts are easy and not expensive, service 350-450. Mine had a poor service record but found it's probably better if you can find a car where it has clearly been cared for and in good condition, trim, body wise etc and be prepared to do some of the mechanicals, disk brakes etc. So you could have a 12 year old car in better condition than a 6 year old. Chassis is must be checked for condition - expensive to repair otherwise. Essential to check all functions of the alarm system - many do not work fully and likely to invalidate insurance in case of theft. Check carpets etc to make sure you don't get one that leaks as they can be difficult to find and rectify.
As to the thorny question of which model. Only my opinion you understand but... after having done all the above I steered away from from the speed 6 and AJP 8 engines on the reliability - I believe a few (I've only met one) have had expensive rebuilds. I did want a convertable as well.
Griffiths tend to be a bit more expensive but the Chimaera's offer a wider selection to chose from and a worthwhile boot for long weekends. As for engine size they come in 4.0, 4.3, 4.5 and 5.0 All are very quick - but perhaps a preference for the revier shorter stroke 4.0 and 4.5 (not as many 4.3's around) Prior to 1995/1996 or thereabouts they don't have catalytic converters so perhaps sound better to the purists. But after 1996 there was a facelift. Some have power steering and others don't - quite important to some. Best not go back before about 1994 as they are pre-serpentine engines with less robust gearbox. Do get recommends as to who to use for serving/maintenance, some of the small independents are better than than some of the major franchises and charge less.
Finally, just get as much information from whatever source you can, take your time, and if possible get an owner local to you to help when you take an initial look/drive.
Whatever, we all wish you good luck and hope you have an enjoyable first TVR experience. Let us know how you get on as well ;-)
First don't rush at the first one and rue the day.
It's actually quite pleasant to take your time and inspect a number of cars first - it gives you a feel for what available in terms of condition and price.
Secondly, even if your aren't a 'clubby' type, do join the TVR car club, and look at Pistonheads classifieds, you will get a wider spectrum of cars available.
Do go along to some of the area evening or weekend meets and talk to people there - they are all pretty enthusiastic and will give you valuable first hand experience of what to look for. There are one or two specialists who will source a car for you and do detailed inspections - they can save you from financial black hole cars.
From my own experience of 4 years ownership, I haven't broken down but I wouldn't like to think of it as daily driver. Parts are easy and not expensive, service 350-450. Mine had a poor service record but found it's probably better if you can find a car where it has clearly been cared for and in good condition, trim, body wise etc and be prepared to do some of the mechanicals, disk brakes etc. So you could have a 12 year old car in better condition than a 6 year old. Chassis is must be checked for condition - expensive to repair otherwise. Essential to check all functions of the alarm system - many do not work fully and likely to invalidate insurance in case of theft. Check carpets etc to make sure you don't get one that leaks as they can be difficult to find and rectify.
As to the thorny question of which model. Only my opinion you understand but... after having done all the above I steered away from from the speed 6 and AJP 8 engines on the reliability - I believe a few (I've only met one) have had expensive rebuilds. I did want a convertable as well.
Griffiths tend to be a bit more expensive but the Chimaera's offer a wider selection to chose from and a worthwhile boot for long weekends. As for engine size they come in 4.0, 4.3, 4.5 and 5.0 All are very quick - but perhaps a preference for the revier shorter stroke 4.0 and 4.5 (not as many 4.3's around) Prior to 1995/1996 or thereabouts they don't have catalytic converters so perhaps sound better to the purists. But after 1996 there was a facelift. Some have power steering and others don't - quite important to some. Best not go back before about 1994 as they are pre-serpentine engines with less robust gearbox. Do get recommends as to who to use for serving/maintenance, some of the small independents are better than than some of the major franchises and charge less.
Finally, just get as much information from whatever source you can, take your time, and if possible get an owner local to you to help when you take an initial look/drive.
Whatever, we all wish you good luck and hope you have an enjoyable first TVR experience. Let us know how you get on as well ;-)
frazer guest said:
as someone else looking to get his first tivver, (i am looking at 4 on sunday), why are the serp V8's better than the pre serps. why is the ford box better than the rover one? i thought that both boxes were pretty strong.
hopefully a relevant question for you too, does anyone know where are the parts sourced from for tivs? i.e. can you get parts cheaper for ordering a rover camblet rather than a TVR one?
thank you
chris
davidindevon said:
Hi and welcome,
First don't rush at the first one and rue the day.
It's actually quite pleasant to take your time and inspect a number of cars first - it gives you a feel for what available in terms of condition and price.
Secondly, even if your aren't a 'clubby' type, do join the TVR car club, and look at Pistonheads classifieds, you will get a wider spectrum of cars available.
Do go along to some of the area evening or weekend meets and talk to people there - they are all pretty enthusiastic and will give you valuable first hand experience of what to look for. There are one or two specialists who will source a car for you and do detailed inspections - they can save you from financial black hole cars.
From my own experience of 4 years ownership, I haven't broken down but I wouldn't like to think of it as daily driver. Parts are easy and not expensive, service 350-450. Mine had a poor service record but found it's probably better if you can find a car where it has clearly been cared for and in good condition, trim, body wise etc and be prepared to do some of the mechanicals, disk brakes etc. So you could have a 12 year old car in better condition than a 6 year old. Chassis is must be checked for condition - expensive to repair otherwise. Essential to check all functions of the alarm system - many do not work fully and likely to invalidate insurance in case of theft. Check carpets etc to make sure you don't get one that leaks as they can be difficult to find and rectify.
As to the thorny question of which model. Only my opinion you understand but... after having done all the above I steered away from from the speed 6 and AJP 8 engines on the reliability - I believe a few (I've only met one) have had expensive rebuilds. I did want a convertable as well.
Griffiths tend to be a bit more expensive but the Chimaera's offer a wider selection to chose from and a worthwhile boot for long weekends. As for engine size they come in 4.0, 4.3, 4.5 and 5.0 All are very quick - but perhaps a preference for the revier shorter stroke 4.0 and 4.5 (not as many 4.3's around) Prior to 1995/1996 or thereabouts they don't have catalytic converters so perhaps sound better to the purists. But after 1996 there was a facelift. Some have power steering and others don't - quite important to some. Best not go back before about 1994 as they are pre-serpentine engines with less robust gearbox. Do get recommends as to who to use for serving/maintenance, some of the small independents are better than than some of the major franchises and charge less.
Finally, just get as much information from whatever source you can, take your time, and if possible get an owner local to you to help when you take an initial look/drive.
Whatever, we all wish you good luck and hope you have an enjoyable first TVR experience. Let us know how you get on as well ;-)
First don't rush at the first one and rue the day.
It's actually quite pleasant to take your time and inspect a number of cars first - it gives you a feel for what available in terms of condition and price.
Secondly, even if your aren't a 'clubby' type, do join the TVR car club, and look at Pistonheads classifieds, you will get a wider spectrum of cars available.
Do go along to some of the area evening or weekend meets and talk to people there - they are all pretty enthusiastic and will give you valuable first hand experience of what to look for. There are one or two specialists who will source a car for you and do detailed inspections - they can save you from financial black hole cars.
From my own experience of 4 years ownership, I haven't broken down but I wouldn't like to think of it as daily driver. Parts are easy and not expensive, service 350-450. Mine had a poor service record but found it's probably better if you can find a car where it has clearly been cared for and in good condition, trim, body wise etc and be prepared to do some of the mechanicals, disk brakes etc. So you could have a 12 year old car in better condition than a 6 year old. Chassis is must be checked for condition - expensive to repair otherwise. Essential to check all functions of the alarm system - many do not work fully and likely to invalidate insurance in case of theft. Check carpets etc to make sure you don't get one that leaks as they can be difficult to find and rectify.
As to the thorny question of which model. Only my opinion you understand but... after having done all the above I steered away from from the speed 6 and AJP 8 engines on the reliability - I believe a few (I've only met one) have had expensive rebuilds. I did want a convertable as well.
Griffiths tend to be a bit more expensive but the Chimaera's offer a wider selection to chose from and a worthwhile boot for long weekends. As for engine size they come in 4.0, 4.3, 4.5 and 5.0 All are very quick - but perhaps a preference for the revier shorter stroke 4.0 and 4.5 (not as many 4.3's around) Prior to 1995/1996 or thereabouts they don't have catalytic converters so perhaps sound better to the purists. But after 1996 there was a facelift. Some have power steering and others don't - quite important to some. Best not go back before about 1994 as they are pre-serpentine engines with less robust gearbox. Do get recommends as to who to use for serving/maintenance, some of the small independents are better than than some of the major franchises and charge less.
Finally, just get as much information from whatever source you can, take your time, and if possible get an owner local to you to help when you take an initial look/drive.
Whatever, we all wish you good luck and hope you have an enjoyable first TVR experience. Let us know how you get on as well ;-)
But don't worry if you fancy a Griff. Not quite as big a boot but big enough for a week trip to Lemans for two.
Good luck in your quest - and remember, any TVR is a TVR. 'Nuff said.
willyonka said:
I'm TRYING to do the sensible thing and find out everything i can about tiv ownership before jumping in BUT I see the cars and hear the sound they make and find it almost impossible to resist!
You're shopping with your head and you wallet. It's supposed to be bought with your heart.....and ears
This might come in handy chaps, I know it is Chimaera orientated, but the principles are the same.
Specially the buyer tips.
Have fun sourcing your TIV.
www.chimaerapages.com/
Specially the buyer tips.
Have fun sourcing your TIV.
www.chimaerapages.com/
I used to have a Tubby - Black T-bar with a few engine/turbo upgrades before it was imported, split rims etc. Lovely car, so much fun. The sound of the induction teamed up with the turbo whistling before the dump valve "pssst" always made me smile.
I had a Griff 500 as my first TVR after first looking into owning a Cerbera. For me i got scared off by the higher costs of the Cerb and a friend was on his 2nd Chim without scarry running costs. So i went for the Griff so that i didn't match my mate.
For the smae money, i think you get a better spec'd and younger Chim than a Griff. My Griff didn't have PAS and i wish it had. And it seems like there are some real bargains to be had on the Chims. But if the past is anything to go by Griff's hold their value better. I'd also say that you shouldn't ignore examples with slightly higher mileage. If they're used regularly they work better. My mate sold his T reg Chim 500 a few years ago with 50 odd thousand miles on the clock for a very low price because people were put off by the mileage, but i've not seem many that were in better condition.
As someone said earlier, they're very different animals but worth the plunge.
I had a Griff 500 as my first TVR after first looking into owning a Cerbera. For me i got scared off by the higher costs of the Cerb and a friend was on his 2nd Chim without scarry running costs. So i went for the Griff so that i didn't match my mate.
For the smae money, i think you get a better spec'd and younger Chim than a Griff. My Griff didn't have PAS and i wish it had. And it seems like there are some real bargains to be had on the Chims. But if the past is anything to go by Griff's hold their value better. I'd also say that you shouldn't ignore examples with slightly higher mileage. If they're used regularly they work better. My mate sold his T reg Chim 500 a few years ago with 50 odd thousand miles on the clock for a very low price because people were put off by the mileage, but i've not seem many that were in better condition.
As someone said earlier, they're very different animals but worth the plunge.
willyonka said:
Before I take the plunge though I'd like to find out what its like owning a TVR (I'd most probably be looking at a Cerbera).
Good choice Sir. Cerb is absolutely awesome to own. For a slightly more leisurely(!) drive, Chimaera is also awesome to own. Can't speak for the others but no doubt its the same. However, just from experience of these 2, they are vastly different cars in all sorts of respects even if the looks are similar!
willyonka said:
What are the running costs like? (honestly!;-))
Cerbera - usual advice is 3k per year + insurance tax fuel as an average. So you may find that one year its the price of a service, the next year you might need a clutch.
willyonka said:
Fuel consumption when out of a spirited run and just general driving?
No idea, I try not to think about it. Probably pretty diabolical.
willyonka said:
Actually how reliable/unreliable are they?
My Chimaera was great. Cerbera has been a bit dodgy on clutch parts. But replaced with new uprated stuff so fingers crossed. Handbuilt cars though - some are brilliant, some aren't. But thats the lottery of used car buying I guess.
willyonka said:
Do you ever get to the stage of contemplating not driving it incase something else goes wrong with it (as I've found on occasion with the MR2!)?
Nope. But I have a shed to back me up & do the mundane journeys.
willyonka said:
What's part availability and cost like?
I haven't had any problems.
willyonka said:
Do most of you do the work yourselves or is it more of a manufacturers job?
I do simple things - change battery, fix obvious fallen off bit etc. Anything else goes to the man who knows what he's doing. But I have no real mechanical knowledge. A lot of guys do their own work.
willyonka said:
I've heard that servicing costs are huge, do most enthusiats use an independant specialist that is more of a reasonalble price?
Indie's are both cheaper & often more knowledgable. Not sure where you are but in the South you've got APM (Cerb man) & Austec - here's their service price list for example:
www.austec.co.uk/servicing.htm
So for a Cerb you're looking at around 450+VAT+other stuff fixing every 6k, then nearer 600+VAT+possibly tappet adjustment + stuff fixing every 12k. Don't be under any illusions though - 1k for a service is not uncommon on these cars & it can easily go up.
But its definitely worth it!! The same performance is hard to find for the money. And they look and sound amazing. I could shout the praises all day but I think you're already almost converted
Test drive some, work out what car you want & then buy on condition.
willyonka said:
frazer guest said:
as someone else looking to get his first tivver, (i am looking at 4 on sunday), why are the serp V8's better than the pre serps. why is the ford box better than the rover one? i thought that both boxes were pretty strong.
hopefully a relevant question for you too, does anyone know where are the parts sourced from for tivs? i.e. can you get parts cheaper for ordering a rover camblet rather than a TVR one?
The T5 (Ford) gearbox was brought in as it was found to be stronger than the Rover SD1 gearbox. The Serp engine had several 'improvements' over the original version, though to be honest, I can't recall hearing about more problems with the earlier engines against the later ones.
Regarding parts: In my experience, obtaining parts through indies is much cheaper than through a main dealer, although you might shave a few quid off if you search around the local motor factors, but knowing that the indie will provide you with exactly what you require is worth the additional cost IMO.
Hope this helps.
Good luck with your search.
(:shameless plug:
my car's for sale - see my profile for details) Edited by chim666 on Friday 16th March 11:08
Just on this, I'm also an ex-MR2 Turbo owner (with some mods).
I took the plunge into a 4.0l Tuscan (via a 600bhp skyline).
The TVR is certainly more of an 'event' every time you turn the key. Some cars are an occasion each time you drive them and the TVR falls into that bracket (more so than the MR2 IMHO). That said, my MR2 was a cracking car and I loved it.
In terms of handling, both cars can bite you in the arse if you drive like a loon, however driven well both cars are rewarding. You get more power in the TVR however it is linear so the plus is grunt at almost any rpm, the downside being the lack of turbo rush (which I miss). The noise makes you grin though
I get just as much pleasure out of burbling around town, doubling up and down the gear box as I do opening it up at the French toll booths.
In terms of running/servicing, I also used to service the MR2 myself (oil, filter, plugs, dizzy and rotor arm etc). Plus, we did some fairly heavy mods ourselves. With the TVR (depending on the model), the mechanicals are pretty simple and easy to do however sometimes not easy to get at (eg the Tuscan bonnet is a 2 man job to remove and a pain in the butt). Also, service history (either dealer or respected Indie) is important when you buy and also (more importantly) when you come to sell. So you can do some work yourself (eg I just changed the LCD display) but it pays to get it serviced and stamped as people, rightly or wrongly, are paranoid about reliability. Check the various indies for servicing costs (eg Offord Motor, Austec, Racing Green, various posts in the forums). You also need to budget for niggly things, same as any car (eg the MR2 ariel tends to fail, as do the T-Top seals, head gasket etc) but if you shop around, it isn't too pricey to get things sorted on the TVR if you DIY. I'm talking about things like swapping a radiator or changing brake discs or pads (for example). Pay a dealer and its expensive (because of labour rates). Pay an indie and its cheaper. DIY (which is simple, with some frigging around) and its not much more than a usual car. Same as the MR2.
My Tuscan has been and a few long trips, including Europe and been totally reliable. Like any car, if you abuse it they break, take care of it and it seems to be fine. I also use it to go to the shops, run errands and general usage. IMO, its better to buy something that gets driven with problems that have been sorted rather than ultra low mileage where things have perished or problems haven’t arisen. Some of the early speed sixes had variable build quality so look for a later rebuild if possible (2003 onwards seems OK) if going for that type of engine. Other niggles are well documented on here. As for parts, everything is available at usually lower cost and better quality through specialists so no worries there I don’t think.
Fuel economy is similar to the MR2. Motorway is fine, blast the throttle around town (which you will, trust me!) and the fuel gauge and rev counter pass each other doing the same speed.
Lastly, bear in mind that a TVR is a hand made specialist piece of kit, not mass produced like the MR2. The chassis is welded spaceframe so check outriggers for corrosion. Panel fit isn’t as good as the MR2 (although both cars leak a bit). Also, being hand made build quality varies so look at a few and buy with your head. Also, go for a drive (or test drive if you’re allowed) a few different models.
I took the plunge into a 4.0l Tuscan (via a 600bhp skyline).
The TVR is certainly more of an 'event' every time you turn the key. Some cars are an occasion each time you drive them and the TVR falls into that bracket (more so than the MR2 IMHO). That said, my MR2 was a cracking car and I loved it.
In terms of handling, both cars can bite you in the arse if you drive like a loon, however driven well both cars are rewarding. You get more power in the TVR however it is linear so the plus is grunt at almost any rpm, the downside being the lack of turbo rush (which I miss). The noise makes you grin though
I get just as much pleasure out of burbling around town, doubling up and down the gear box as I do opening it up at the French toll booths. In terms of running/servicing, I also used to service the MR2 myself (oil, filter, plugs, dizzy and rotor arm etc). Plus, we did some fairly heavy mods ourselves. With the TVR (depending on the model), the mechanicals are pretty simple and easy to do however sometimes not easy to get at (eg the Tuscan bonnet is a 2 man job to remove and a pain in the butt). Also, service history (either dealer or respected Indie) is important when you buy and also (more importantly) when you come to sell. So you can do some work yourself (eg I just changed the LCD display) but it pays to get it serviced and stamped as people, rightly or wrongly, are paranoid about reliability. Check the various indies for servicing costs (eg Offord Motor, Austec, Racing Green, various posts in the forums). You also need to budget for niggly things, same as any car (eg the MR2 ariel tends to fail, as do the T-Top seals, head gasket etc) but if you shop around, it isn't too pricey to get things sorted on the TVR if you DIY. I'm talking about things like swapping a radiator or changing brake discs or pads (for example). Pay a dealer and its expensive (because of labour rates). Pay an indie and its cheaper. DIY (which is simple, with some frigging around) and its not much more than a usual car. Same as the MR2.
My Tuscan has been and a few long trips, including Europe and been totally reliable. Like any car, if you abuse it they break, take care of it and it seems to be fine. I also use it to go to the shops, run errands and general usage. IMO, its better to buy something that gets driven with problems that have been sorted rather than ultra low mileage where things have perished or problems haven’t arisen. Some of the early speed sixes had variable build quality so look for a later rebuild if possible (2003 onwards seems OK) if going for that type of engine. Other niggles are well documented on here. As for parts, everything is available at usually lower cost and better quality through specialists so no worries there I don’t think.
Fuel economy is similar to the MR2. Motorway is fine, blast the throttle around town (which you will, trust me!) and the fuel gauge and rev counter pass each other doing the same speed.
Lastly, bear in mind that a TVR is a hand made specialist piece of kit, not mass produced like the MR2. The chassis is welded spaceframe so check outriggers for corrosion. Panel fit isn’t as good as the MR2 (although both cars leak a bit). Also, being hand made build quality varies so look at a few and buy with your head. Also, go for a drive (or test drive if you’re allowed) a few different models.
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