Gimme a run down of A-Series mods!

[WeeG]

I drive an old school kit car with a lot of mini and austin bits, A-series, 1275cc. I have just put an LCB mani, water cooled inlet, K+N filter with stub stack, stainless system and rc40 backbox (straight through) on it. It now works much better than previously

What are some of the next logical steps in getting it running faster ever faster whilst keeping it semi-reliable?

I want to keep the A-series engine, I know i can go down other routes and get much more impressive performance but I'm quite taken with the idea of having using "old" technology to make a certain kind of car and keeping it all very understandable - I am not particularly mechanically minded. Other than that I'm open to suggestions. Sorry if this is pretty basic stuff but I find it usually helps to ask.

Cheers,

G.

[annodomini2]

Stg 2/3 head

Cam ugrade

Roller rockers

Stronger pistons

Bore out to 1293131013301380

Stronger rods

EN40B crank.

Webber carb?

Metro turbo conversion.

There's plenty you can do just depends on your desire and budget.

[Cara Jynwyth]

Get yourself a Vizard bible and read it.

Best thing is to put a good cam in there along with a good head. Seriously a good head makes a lot of difference. This is where you pick up points.

Just so happens that I have a good head on my 1380 which I will get rid of at some point soon.

I'd say, S sized valves on a well ported head (like I have) with something like a piper 270 or kent 276 cam. Keep the 1/3/4 carb and you'll be right. Anything more than that and you start getting irritated at your first gear.

Good choice though as big welly rules.

[GHW]

Lightweight flywheels work great on an A-series too (given that the standard flywheel is practically a boat anchor).

[vrooom]

Head and cam make most difference.

[skyedriver]

annodomini2 said:

Bore out to 1293131013301380

Bloody ell, that'll be a large capacity engine about 27litres i recon

Sorry
seriously every mod costs money, cam change is an engine out job etc
not a fan of 28/36 mod myself
head mod is no 1
RC40 exhaust + LCB
lighten the car, remove the unwanted stuff
IMPROVE the brakes
sort out the suspension and set it up right (see Coopermans threads)
don't go 13" wheels & tyres
have fun

[fwdracer]

Head change (decent porting and 35.7mm Inlets as minimum) and 1.5 ratio rockers if you don't fancy taking the engine out

Make sure the base unit is in good health - tho' head coming off will confirm this

[Hazzer]

How about doing a 16v conversion from these boys....:

www.specialist-components.com/cnb/shop/sconline?op=catalogue-products-null&prodCategoryID=15&title=K+Engine+Conversion+Parts

BMW Cylinder head onto an A Series block!

Nice

[AntMat]

You could always try and find a pair of single choke Dell'Ortos and get rid of the K & N whilst you're at it. They should fit on the twin 1.25" SU manifold. A good exhaust manifold will also help.
And yes, get hold of the David Vizard "bible"!

Fitting an electric fan (Kenlowe) helps too. If you start to go beyond this you will want an oil cooler and an uprated oil pump.

[minimrman]

Either save up for a long time or get a loan, then get MED to build you a 1380 with an arden 8port on it. It is the best mini engine that you can put in a mini period! 150bhp full race spec and totaly totaly drivable and reliable.
Wish i never sold it!

Edited by minimrman on Monday 2nd April 21:56

[danwebster]

That certainly is a great engine for sure.....however its not the best A series you can put in a mini....



and to be fair that is a crap picture of a great engine...sorry....its a KAD Twin cam 16 valve in case you don't know.

Edited by danwebster on Tuesday 3rd April 10:26

[MiniMrMan]

There was to much power for a front wheel drive mini with my 8port, so I would imagine it would be much of the same for a KAD 16V. If you want high power and grip to go with it just give up and stick a Honda in the boot!