DIY or potential disaster???
Discussion
Hi All 
Right, I've decided that it's about time my Griff got a little TLC. I had all the wheels off this weekend and, although there doesn't seem anything to worry about, there is some surface rust on the wishbones and around the top chassis mounts. My plan is to remove the suspension/wishbones from all 4 corners and clean up the rust, treat it where needed and repaint/waxoyl, plus replace the bushes and add Steve's drop links.
Now, I'm fairly new to car mechanics but quite willing to get stuck in. I've changed the rad, brakes, and other bits and pieces so is this the sort of thing I should be tackling or am I risking serious problems?
Any help or advice on this greatly appreciated, and will be returned with lots of beer at the Growl (if I get it finished in time
)
Cheers
Karl
Right, I've decided that it's about time my Griff got a little TLC. I had all the wheels off this weekend and, although there doesn't seem anything to worry about, there is some surface rust on the wishbones and around the top chassis mounts. My plan is to remove the suspension/wishbones from all 4 corners and clean up the rust, treat it where needed and repaint/waxoyl, plus replace the bushes and add Steve's drop links.
Now, I'm fairly new to car mechanics but quite willing to get stuck in. I've changed the rad, brakes, and other bits and pieces so is this the sort of thing I should be tackling or am I risking serious problems?
Any help or advice on this greatly appreciated, and will be returned with lots of beer at the Growl (if I get it finished in time
) Cheers
Karl
Hi Grif500,just finished front end,top/bottom ball joints,track rod ends,gaiters,wishbones and bushes.Straight forward with basic mechanics.Most difficult job is to remove old bushes.The bible is spot on,chain drill the rubber between the sleeves then knock out then hacksaw the outer sleeve.Recommend sandblasting wishbones also can highly recommend Steve Heaths suspension bolt kit for the finishing touch.See you at the Growl.Dave.J
Hmmm, a pit certainly would help Pasco, can't be that difficult to dig a great big hole in my garage... 
Spend, the trouble is I can't really afford the time to do a complete strip down/body off, so am just trying to do what I can. Which areas do you mean? The car will be up on stands so can get under it ok, and I'm prepared to strip down other parts if needed, just didn't want to go to the whole effort of body-off (was hoping to get some use out of her this summer!
)
Some good news there then Dave, thanks for that. I was planning on ordering Steve's drop links, so a bolt kit will be added to that order! This may seem a silly question (and show up my novice approach) but do you need to "torque" up the bolts again, and if so is there a list of torque settings out there?
Cheers again!
Karl
Spend, the trouble is I can't really afford the time to do a complete strip down/body off, so am just trying to do what I can. Which areas do you mean? The car will be up on stands so can get under it ok, and I'm prepared to strip down other parts if needed, just didn't want to go to the whole effort of body-off (was hoping to get some use out of her this summer!
) mrcosmos said:
Hi Grif500,just finished front end,top/bottom ball joints,track rod ends,gaiters,wishbones and bushes.Straight forward with basic mechanics.Most difficult job is to remove old bushes.The bible is spot on,chain drill the rubber between the sleeves then knock out then hacksaw the outer sleeve.Recommend sandblasting wishbones also can highly recommend Steve Heaths suspension bolt kit for the finishing touch.See you at the Growl.Dave.J
Some good news there then Dave, thanks for that. I was planning on ordering Steve's drop links, so a bolt kit will be added to that order! This may seem a silly question (and show up my novice approach) but do you need to "torque" up the bolts again, and if so is there a list of torque settings out there?
Cheers again!
Karl
As said, nothing really difficult with the job. Some of the bolts will probably be seized and obviously when it is all back together you will need to set/ have set the geometry. I had to replace one of the top ball joints as the bolts were seized into the holes. My be wise to precede the job with a good dousing of wd40 a week or so ahead of starting with the spanners.
If you can see that there is going to be quite a bit of work cleaning and painting it really is worth considering replacing with new. They are not expensive and come ready bushed. I changed two of mine because holes appeared when the paint was off. In hindsight I should probably have replaced all the ones that weren’t already new. If they are in good nick and just need a clean up then it is a different matter.
If you can see that there is going to be quite a bit of work cleaning and painting it really is worth considering replacing with new. They are not expensive and come ready bushed. I changed two of mine because holes appeared when the paint was off. In hindsight I should probably have replaced all the ones that weren’t already new. If they are in good nick and just need a clean up then it is a different matter.
mrcosmos said:
Hi Karl,torque wrench not required just tight as poss'[no alloy parts].Dave.
There are torque settings, on Griff / Chim pages as well as the original Peter Beech site. Correct Torque & copper slip will ensure that the parts are serviceable next time
They are not very tight 35-40ftlb IIRC! Dave
You can access most of the chassis without removing the body, just takes a little time. Removing the exhaust enables you to check the top rails. Manifold removal may be neccessary to get at some problem areas at the front. Mainly fiddly areas on the outriggers to cope with. If your wishbones are looking scraggy its a good bet that the chassis has been neglected, so my point was that I would address these areas first. Wooden planks to drive on make it quite easy to work under the car ~ you dont even need to remove the wheels to do a lot of this work..
Dave
Dave
Great help as usual, thanks all! 
Steve, the wishbones themselves don't look too bad, there are no obvious holes anywhere so I'm hopeful that they'll just need a cleanup and recoat. Guess I'll know more once it's all stripped out (at which point I'll probably be found sitting in hte corner crying wishing I'd never started it!) Again, another silly question, but would it be ok to drive it to the nearest garage to set the geometry up or would it be better to trailor it there?
Dave/Spend, regarding the torque settings. I'll be honest and say that I've never used a torque wrench before, and when I've replaced brakes/etc I've just done things up as tight as poss (within reason). Is this not the best practice then?
Hi Martin, your top photo is basically the current state of mine, some surface rust but nothing really to worry about. Did you just strip it down and reseal, or did you go the whole hog and have everything sandblasted? And did you replace any bushes while it was apart? Might take you up on the offer of advice once I get started, so you may regret typing that soon!
Steve, the wishbones themselves don't look too bad, there are no obvious holes anywhere so I'm hopeful that they'll just need a cleanup and recoat. Guess I'll know more once it's all stripped out (at which point I'll probably be found sitting in hte corner crying wishing I'd never started it!) Again, another silly question, but would it be ok to drive it to the nearest garage to set the geometry up or would it be better to trailor it there?
Dave/Spend, regarding the torque settings. I'll be honest and say that I've never used a torque wrench before, and when I've replaced brakes/etc I've just done things up as tight as poss (within reason). Is this not the best practice then?
Hi Martin, your top photo is basically the current state of mine, some surface rust but nothing really to worry about. Did you just strip it down and reseal, or did you go the whole hog and have everything sandblasted? And did you replace any bushes while it was apart? Might take you up on the offer of advice once I get started, so you may regret typing that soon!
Mine looked fine just a bit tatty, until I attacked them with a wire brush attachment on the angle grinder and holes appeared. The fronts are apparently particularly prone to corroding where they are close to the exhaust. Provided you can do the job over an extended period and don't need to use the car the next day then it really is no problem. Take off the old parts and look them over, if you need some new ones then call one of the mail order suppliers and you will have some nice new ones the next day.
No problem at all with driving to nave the geo set up. Would say however best not to go to the "nearest garage". The geo is so important for proper handling that it really is important to take it were they are familiar with the car. Loads of people about who can do it.
I actually made a camber gauge with a bit of wood, some string and a lead weight but wasn’t far off. The real problem is finding a completely level floor.
In terms of time, it will probably take about a weekend per corner to do a proper job. Definitely well worth doing.
No problem at all with driving to nave the geo set up. Would say however best not to go to the "nearest garage". The geo is so important for proper handling that it really is important to take it were they are familiar with the car. Loads of people about who can do it.
I actually made a camber gauge with a bit of wood, some string and a lead weight but wasn’t far off. The real problem is finding a completely level floor.
In terms of time, it will probably take about a weekend per corner to do a proper job. Definitely well worth doing.
Cheers for the advice Steve, and everyone else!
Looks like I'll be giving this a go then, I've checked with Tvrcarparts and they have (or can get) all of the wishbones should I need any, fingers crossed!
I'll be taking photos all the way through so if anyones interested I'll post them up when I'm done.
Now I just need to persuade myself that I really don't need any upgrades along the way.....
Looks like I'll be giving this a go then, I've checked with Tvrcarparts and they have (or can get) all of the wishbones should I need any, fingers crossed!
I'll be taking photos all the way through so if anyones interested I'll post them up when I'm done.
Now I just need to persuade myself that I really don't need any upgrades along the way.....
grif500 said:
Great help as usual, thanks all!
Steve, the wishbones themselves don't look too bad, there are no obvious holes anywhere so I'm hopeful that they'll just need a cleanup and recoat. Guess I'll know more once it's all stripped out (at which point I'll probably be found sitting in hte corner crying wishing I'd never started it!) Again, another silly question, but would it be ok to drive it to the nearest garage to set the geometry up or would it be better to trailor it there?
Dave/Spend, regarding the torque settings. I'll be honest and say that I've never used a torque wrench before, and when I've replaced brakes/etc I've just done things up as tight as poss (within reason). Is this not the best practice then?
Hi Martin, your top photo is basically the current state of mine, some surface rust but nothing really to worry about. Did you just strip it down and reseal, or did you go the whole hog and have everything sandblasted? And did you replace any bushes while it was apart? Might take you up on the offer of advice once I get started, so you may regret typing that soon!
Steve, the wishbones themselves don't look too bad, there are no obvious holes anywhere so I'm hopeful that they'll just need a cleanup and recoat. Guess I'll know more once it's all stripped out (at which point I'll probably be found sitting in hte corner crying wishing I'd never started it!) Again, another silly question, but would it be ok to drive it to the nearest garage to set the geometry up or would it be better to trailor it there?
Dave/Spend, regarding the torque settings. I'll be honest and say that I've never used a torque wrench before, and when I've replaced brakes/etc I've just done things up as tight as poss (within reason). Is this not the best practice then?
Hi Martin, your top photo is basically the current state of mine, some surface rust but nothing really to worry about. Did you just strip it down and reseal, or did you go the whole hog and have everything sandblasted? And did you replace any bushes while it was apart? Might take you up on the offer of advice once I get started, so you may regret typing that soon!
Karl,
For small jobs like the wishones POR15 (www.frost.co.uk) do a nice little kit which includes a small pot of POR15 paint, some marine clean (to get the waxoyl off) and some metal prep as well as some brushes and latex gloves, all in a neat little box. Thats all I used on the wishbones and the surrounding Chassis tubes plus a wire brush just to clean up any rust a bit.
I used silver POR15 just so I could tell what I have painted and what I haven't at a later date.
The ARB links can be fitted easily without removing the wishbones but my rears were a pig to line up correctly (their wrong in the photo) The fronts were much easier.
I didn't replace the bushes as I figured at 15000 miles they were probably OK.
The offer of any help you need still stands though
Martin
Just done mine and it is all straight forward.
If you make some measurements for the top pinch bolts (you’ll see what I mean as you start dismantling) so that you can get the camber back as it was then you can drive it to get sorted latter. There are also some spacers to watch out for in the top joint make sure these go back the same.
Once done give it all good lashing of waxoil.
Cheers,
Simon.
If you make some measurements for the top pinch bolts (you’ll see what I mean as you start dismantling) so that you can get the camber back as it was then you can drive it to get sorted latter. There are also some spacers to watch out for in the top joint make sure these go back the same.
Once done give it all good lashing of waxoil.
Cheers,
Simon.
Ever wish you hadn't started something........... 
All of this lovely weather, and my Grif's sat on Axle stands in the garage!!!
So, everythings stripped down and I'm relieved to say that all of the wishbones are in relatively good condition, bit of flaking paint and surface rust but nothing to worry about. But....can I get the bushes out? Can I b*gger!!!!!
I've tried every method listed on here, and the bible, but they won't budge.
The inner tube and rubber I can remove using the "hmmm, what's the lovely smell" melting method. The outer tube is another story, it's almost like it's a permanent part of the wishbone!
Can anyone recommend a way of getting these out? I really don't want to go down the method of buying all new wishbones as mine are in good condition, plus I've got the bushes in the hub assemblys and suspension to get out as well.
Someone help please, I need to drive her before the sunshine run's out!
All of this lovely weather, and my Grif's sat on Axle stands in the garage!!!
So, everythings stripped down and I'm relieved to say that all of the wishbones are in relatively good condition, bit of flaking paint and surface rust but nothing to worry about. But....can I get the bushes out? Can I b*gger!!!!!
I've tried every method listed on here, and the bible, but they won't budge.
The inner tube and rubber I can remove using the "hmmm, what's the lovely smell" melting method. The outer tube is another story, it's almost like it's a permanent part of the wishbone!
Can anyone recommend a way of getting these out? I really don't want to go down the method of buying all new wishbones as mine are in good condition, plus I've got the bushes in the hub assemblys and suspension to get out as well.
Someone help please, I need to drive her before the sunshine run's out!
Hi Karl
Ive just finished doing my chassis, the best way i found to remove the bushes is to burn the rubber out, hacksaw through the outer sleeve, then knock it out with a drift. Its a bit of a time consuming job but refitting the new bushes is alot easier!!!!! I did try pressing one of the bushes out, ended up breaking my vice!! Its also worth checking the adjusters on the rear lower wishbones as you have them out, there only £5 new so might be worth replacing.
Ive just finished doing my chassis, the best way i found to remove the bushes is to burn the rubber out, hacksaw through the outer sleeve, then knock it out with a drift. Its a bit of a time consuming job but refitting the new bushes is alot easier!!!!! I did try pressing one of the bushes out, ended up breaking my vice!! Its also worth checking the adjusters on the rear lower wishbones as you have them out, there only £5 new so might be worth replacing.
Hi Ian,
Guess this is going to show up my inexperience here, but what do you mean by "knock it out with a drift"?? Is this simply holding it in a vice and hitting the bush as hard as possible? I've no problem doing this, (probably need to get rid of some aggresion on something ) just don't want to end up damaging the wishbones.
Why o why did I start this
Guess this is going to show up my inexperience here, but what do you mean by "knock it out with a drift"?? Is this simply holding it in a vice and hitting the bush as hard as possible? I've no problem doing this, (probably need to get rid of some aggresion on something
) just don't want to end up damaging the wishbones. Why o why did I start this
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