Thinking of buying this Ferrari 360..
Discussion
www.pistonheads.com/sales/111028.htm
Has anyone seen this car or know anything about it...I am very tempted...
Has anyone seen this car or know anything about it...I am very tempted...
Does anybody have a view on what the trade price for this car is? Also how active is the market for 360s and would I be making a huge mistake buying a manual from a resale perspective?
The reason I ask is that I may need to sell the car in six months as we may move abroad but I really want this "last fling" as I may not get the chance in the overseas post...
The reason I ask is that I may need to sell the car in six months as we may move abroad but I really want this "last fling" as I may not get the chance in the overseas post...
paracetamol said:
Does anybody have a view on what the trade price for this car is? Also how active is the market for 360s and would I be making a huge mistake buying a manual from a resale perspective?
The reason I ask is that I may need to sell the car in six months as we may move abroad but I really want this "last fling" as I may not get the chance in the overseas post...
The reason I ask is that I may need to sell the car in six months as we may move abroad but I really want this "last fling" as I may not get the chance in the overseas post...
Looks like all the money to me, trade is around the £50k mark with a retail of £59995, i think if you paid around the mid 50's that would be ok depending on if its due a service or needs any other work!! good luck.
PR Cars has the following - Ferrari 360 F1
8,000 miles, Red. Alarm, Alloys, Leather Trim, Traction Control System, Air conditioning, CD Multichanger, Climate Control, Electric mirrors, Electric windows, Full service history. £62,500.
Dont know much about servicing schedules or expensive cambelt changes et,etc but with this type of mileage - it looks like a bargain IMO
Tel- 01392 851292
www.prcars.co.uk/925/prcarsexeter.htm
8,000 miles, Red. Alarm, Alloys, Leather Trim, Traction Control System, Air conditioning, CD Multichanger, Climate Control, Electric mirrors, Electric windows, Full service history. £62,500.
Dont know much about servicing schedules or expensive cambelt changes et,etc but with this type of mileage - it looks like a bargain IMO
Tel- 01392 851292
www.prcars.co.uk/925/prcarsexeter.htm
Edited by wanta996 on Wednesday 21st March 22:25
where has this myth come from that buying a manual means you lose out at resale time???
my old silver 360 spider was manual, as i didnt rate the F1 box, & the guy i sold it to (the 1st person who came to view it incidentally)was saying how hard he'd found it to find a good manual spider anywhere, let alone in his preferred colour choice.
my old silver 360 spider was manual, as i didnt rate the F1 box, & the guy i sold it to (the 1st person who came to view it incidentally)was saying how hard he'd found it to find a good manual spider anywhere, let alone in his preferred colour choice.
wanta996 said:
PR Cars has the following - Ferrari 360 F1
8,000 miles, Red. Alarm, Alloys, Leather Trim, Traction Control System, Air conditioning, CD Multichanger, Climate Control, Electric mirrors, Electric windows, Full service history. £62,500.
Dont know much about servicing schedules or expensive cambelt changes et,etc but with this type of mileage - it looks like a bargain IMO
Tel- 01392 851292
www.prcars.co.uk/925/prcarsexeter.htm
Looks good but I really prefer a manual. Having driven (not owned!) a flappy paddle Vanquish and the new M5, I couldnt get used to them...the only reason I'd buy an F1 is if they are genuinely much easier to buy
8,000 miles, Red. Alarm, Alloys, Leather Trim, Traction Control System, Air conditioning, CD Multichanger, Climate Control, Electric mirrors, Electric windows, Full service history. £62,500.
Dont know much about servicing schedules or expensive cambelt changes et,etc but with this type of mileage - it looks like a bargain IMO
Tel- 01392 851292
www.prcars.co.uk/925/prcarsexeter.htm
Looks good but I really prefer a manual. Having driven (not owned!) a flappy paddle Vanquish and the new M5, I couldnt get used to them...the only reason I'd buy an F1 is if they are genuinely much easier to buy
Edited by wanta996 on Wednesday 21st March 22:25
Those mats have to go.. ewww !
Re F1: When it was launched 70% of 360s were F1, when word trickled out about how expensive they were to run (comparatively) and clunky they were, more manual than F1 cars were sold .
When a main dealer takes in an F1 car p/x, they factor in they will be changing the clutch as a matter of course and knock that off the ££ they're going to give you.
I think (at main dealer prices) it works out to about 30p a mile in F1 clutch.
Personally, I'd avoid.
Re F1: When it was launched 70% of 360s were F1, when word trickled out about how expensive they were to run (comparatively) and clunky they were, more manual than F1 cars were sold .
When a main dealer takes in an F1 car p/x, they factor in they will be changing the clutch as a matter of course and knock that off the ££ they're going to give you.
I think (at main dealer prices) it works out to about 30p a mile in F1 clutch.
Personally, I'd avoid.
Edited by gt2man-2 on Wednesday 21st March 23:38
to work out your trade price at this price bracket and beyond you can figure on a dealer margin of between 15-20 percent - so 10-12K - however it depends how agressive the dealer has been in buying the car - when i sold a 1400 3 month old minic cooper my local dealer got to within 300 quid of retail as he had a customer waiting and didn't need to spend anything on the car and 5 other mini dealers were bidding, therefore if the dealer is outbidding other traders he may have gone over book to secure the car (although on a 360 i would be surprised). If the car is sale or return then there is probably less room to move, the dealer might be on only 5 percent commission, so it will be as much down to the owner if they want to take a cheeky offer.
Resale wise, if you want to dump her in a hurry then look at stripping off the entire dealer margin back tot rrade price then also take off about 500-1000 per month of ownership in depreciation. the exact figure will depend on the mileage you do and also what month you decide to sell in. if you sell right at the end of summer dealers will want to underpay as they may be stuck with the car for winter which will incur extra depreciation and stocking interest.
if you say keep the car 6 months and do 3000 miles you could get away with about £1 a mile so say current trade less 3K - but the market is volatile and supply and demand figure heavily in the equation, if there are more 430's in the market it will push top down onto the 360 - ig demand for 355's goes up and supply shortens it pushes 360 prices up - so like everything its a gamble.
BUt for resale, red, manual, black leather,scuderias, reasonable mileage mean the resale will always be strong.
I would not worry about the manual, due to the constant carping in the auto press about flappy paddles i think most people in this price bracket will be looking for a manual.
Unless you know your horses, i also strongly agree about getting a inspection done. i saved 6.5K on a 512TR for the sake of a 500 quid engineers report. at a 60K investment its a small price to pay for peace of mind and if you buy a clunker it will be impossible to sell.
Resale wise, if you want to dump her in a hurry then look at stripping off the entire dealer margin back tot rrade price then also take off about 500-1000 per month of ownership in depreciation. the exact figure will depend on the mileage you do and also what month you decide to sell in. if you sell right at the end of summer dealers will want to underpay as they may be stuck with the car for winter which will incur extra depreciation and stocking interest.
if you say keep the car 6 months and do 3000 miles you could get away with about £1 a mile so say current trade less 3K - but the market is volatile and supply and demand figure heavily in the equation, if there are more 430's in the market it will push top down onto the 360 - ig demand for 355's goes up and supply shortens it pushes 360 prices up - so like everything its a gamble.
BUt for resale, red, manual, black leather,scuderias, reasonable mileage mean the resale will always be strong.
I would not worry about the manual, due to the constant carping in the auto press about flappy paddles i think most people in this price bracket will be looking for a manual.
Unless you know your horses, i also strongly agree about getting a inspection done. i saved 6.5K on a 512TR for the sake of a 500 quid engineers report. at a 60K investment its a small price to pay for peace of mind and if you buy a clunker it will be impossible to sell.
Thanks. They appear to be selling the car for a customer of thiers who is the 3rd owner of the car. It was orginally a Northern Ireland car and seems to have then spent some time in Manchester and then the North East. They have just sent over the last service bill where it has had new brake pads and a disc skim all round and 2 new track rod ends.
Just a bit worried that the price is a bit stiff...I've just spoken to a friend who also has a friend (!) who has been trying to sell as similar car for £53k for sometime. No trade bids and not a sniff on SOR. I may buy that instead (depending on condition and history) I was quite surprised given it was also red and low miles-hence my question about the desireability of the 360.
Just a bit worried that the price is a bit stiff...I've just spoken to a friend who also has a friend (!) who has been trying to sell as similar car for £53k for sometime. No trade bids and not a sniff on SOR. I may buy that instead (depending on condition and history) I was quite surprised given it was also red and low miles-hence my question about the desireability of the 360.
Edited by paracetamol on Thursday 22 March 11:17
to be fair even 430's arent shifting quickly at the moment, so i think its more to do with our second winter we seem to be having, as soon as the weather picks up i think you will see some movement.
I don't think there is anything wrong with the car you are looking at from a spec point of view but i agree they are asking all the money (can be more usual with SOR, its like estate agents - sometimes traders overbook cars to get the contract) - i would want 5K at least off for the season.
I think if you can get a good (i.e close to trade) price on your friends 360 then take it - if you are not intending keeping the car more than 6 mOnths or so your prime motivation should be resale value and minimising your loss - therefore go for a good spec that will appeal to most buyers - i.e rosso/black/scuderias a strong history and good mileage. if you buy close to trade now, and plan to shift it (i would not wait much beyond august, if you push into september you may miss the market) then you can probably get a quick trade disposal for close to what you paid.
I don't think there is anything wrong with the car you are looking at from a spec point of view but i agree they are asking all the money (can be more usual with SOR, its like estate agents - sometimes traders overbook cars to get the contract) - i would want 5K at least off for the season.
I think if you can get a good (i.e close to trade) price on your friends 360 then take it - if you are not intending keeping the car more than 6 mOnths or so your prime motivation should be resale value and minimising your loss - therefore go for a good spec that will appeal to most buyers - i.e rosso/black/scuderias a strong history and good mileage. if you buy close to trade now, and plan to shift it (i would not wait much beyond august, if you push into september you may miss the market) then you can probably get a quick trade disposal for close to what you paid.
gt2man-2 said:
Those mats have to go.. ewww !
Re F1: When it was launched 70% of 360s were F1, when word trickled out about how expensive they were to run (comparatively) and clunky they were, more manual than F1 cars were sold .
When a main dealer takes in an F1 car p/x, they factor in they will be changing the clutch as a matter of course and knock that off the ££ they're going to give you.
I think (at main dealer prices) it works out to about 30p a mile in F1 clutch.
Personally, I'd avoid.
Re F1: When it was launched 70% of 360s were F1, when word trickled out about how expensive they were to run (comparatively) and clunky they were, more manual than F1 cars were sold .
When a main dealer takes in an F1 car p/x, they factor in they will be changing the clutch as a matter of course and knock that off the ££ they're going to give you.
I think (at main dealer prices) it works out to about 30p a mile in F1 clutch.
Personally, I'd avoid.
Edited by gt2man-2 on Wednesday 21st March 23:38
26k miles , 5 years and only one clutch change, done very reasonably at an indi.
Don't believe everthing you hear about F1 and Clutch's having to be changed all the time.
I currently have both a manual and an f1 spider.
Must say I never ever thought I would like an F1 but my mind has been blown away by just how easy and friendly I have found the car. Now the F1 spider has a sports exhaust (capristo) fitted the F1 experience has been taken to another level, changing down brings an aural delight, I actually look forward to slowing down and bliping down the gears.
I dont drive either car in town much although the blue car has been a bit of an everyday drive for me over the last month and has completely dispelled any preconceptions I once had that you couldnt live with one day to day, in fact its been a joy to drive every day and makes me a little sad that my pride and joy manual car has spent the last 5 months in its carcoon!
My advice would be to drive both systems, I will never sell my manual spider best thing I have ever bought, love it to bits, it still makes me smile when I look at it, even through the bubble, but I will be very sad in July when I sell my F1 spider, it is very special, especially for those like me isnt blessed with race driver skills, having both hands on wheels at all time really makes a difference!!
Neither car will leave anything less than a fat smile on your face, the F1 may have slightly higher running costs but it is really a good system and you dont think its gonna change up on you every now and then like other manafacturers f1 style boxes.
And 150% if I manage to buy a 430 spider in a year or two it will definately be an F1 !
Must say I never ever thought I would like an F1 but my mind has been blown away by just how easy and friendly I have found the car. Now the F1 spider has a sports exhaust (capristo) fitted the F1 experience has been taken to another level, changing down brings an aural delight, I actually look forward to slowing down and bliping down the gears.
I dont drive either car in town much although the blue car has been a bit of an everyday drive for me over the last month and has completely dispelled any preconceptions I once had that you couldnt live with one day to day, in fact its been a joy to drive every day and makes me a little sad that my pride and joy manual car has spent the last 5 months in its carcoon!
My advice would be to drive both systems, I will never sell my manual spider best thing I have ever bought, love it to bits, it still makes me smile when I look at it, even through the bubble, but I will be very sad in July when I sell my F1 spider, it is very special, especially for those like me isnt blessed with race driver skills, having both hands on wheels at all time really makes a difference!!
Neither car will leave anything less than a fat smile on your face, the F1 may have slightly higher running costs but it is really a good system and you dont think its gonna change up on you every now and then like other manafacturers f1 style boxes.
And 150% if I manage to buy a 430 spider in a year or two it will definately be an F1 !
nopantshans said:
If the car is sale or return then there is probably less room to move, the dealer might be on only 5 percent commission, so it will be as much down to the owner if they want to take a cheeky offer.
If the buyer is rock firm in his price, yes negotiation is difficult, but in my experience you get better discount on SOR cars because dealers don't care what they car sells for, they just want the deal to be done. Private owners tend to be less hard nosed than dealers too and can be persuaded to drop their price, whereas a dealer that has a car that owes him a fixed amount can have little room to manouvre.
ALWAYS find out if a car is on SOR if you're interested in it. If it is, go in low. If it isn't ask the dealer what they paid for the car, and ask for proof. (Don't ask, don't get)
Edited by GT2man-2 on Friday 23 March 10:32
To be honest, I think they will make their money out of the finance package that they are offereing. They appear to own the finance company and are providing a great rate etc. The advantage to the finance route is that if the car proves to be troublesome then it can be rejected back to the finance company (ie the dealer).
So they are negotiable on the price so long as I dont want to PX. The warranty that they are offerering is poor however £1400 for a £4k claim limit (!)
Any suggestions for a good inspection in North East England?
Also turns out the my friend of friends one is a 99V reg and has a few scratches-he's checking on the history so I guess this has to be worth at least £4k more than that as the W reg is freshly serviced and mint?
Does anyone know the service and cambelt intervals and can the clutch thickness be measured on a maunual?
So they are negotiable on the price so long as I dont want to PX. The warranty that they are offerering is poor however £1400 for a £4k claim limit (!)
Any suggestions for a good inspection in North East England?
Also turns out the my friend of friends one is a 99V reg and has a few scratches-he's checking on the history so I guess this has to be worth at least £4k more than that as the W reg is freshly serviced and mint?
Does anyone know the service and cambelt intervals and can the clutch thickness be measured on a maunual?
GT2man-2 said:
nopantshans said:
If the car is sale or return then there is probably less room to move, the dealer might be on only 5 percent commission, so it will be as much down to the owner if they want to take a cheeky offer.
If the buyer is rock firm in his price, yes negotiation is difficult, but in my experience you get better discount on SOR cars because dealers don't care what they car sells for, they just want the deal to be done. Private owners tend to be less hard nosed than dealers too and can be persuaded to drop their price, whereas a dealer that has a car that owes him a fixed amount can have little room to manouvre.
ALWAYS find out if a car is on SOR if you're interested in it. If it is, go in low. If it isn't ask the dealer what they paid for the car, and ask for proof. (Don't ask, don't get)
Edited by GT2man-2 on Friday 23 March 10:32
Why should the dealer tell you how much he paid?
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