T-cut (and the like) any good?
Discussion
It's a coarse (for consumer-grade) polish.
If the damage is just in the lacquer layer, it will first of all round off the edges of the scratch, reducing the 'white line' effect. It will then slowly remove the lacquer, hopefully to the point where there is only undamaged surface left.
On darker colours, the fine scratches it leaves behind (it's an abrasive!) can remain visible.
According to my reference library, polishing out deep lacquer scratches without first sanding them out using fine papers on a block can remove as much as 7 times the amount of lacquer as wet sanding first.
A pro with a film thickness gauge, experience and progressively finer compounds is a much safer way to proceed, but DIY is certainly possible with patience and care. If you polish through the clearcoat, the panel will need respraying, so take it easy!
HTH
Tol
If the damage is just in the lacquer layer, it will first of all round off the edges of the scratch, reducing the 'white line' effect. It will then slowly remove the lacquer, hopefully to the point where there is only undamaged surface left.
On darker colours, the fine scratches it leaves behind (it's an abrasive!) can remain visible.
According to my reference library, polishing out deep lacquer scratches without first sanding them out using fine papers on a block can remove as much as 7 times the amount of lacquer as wet sanding first.
A pro with a film thickness gauge, experience and progressively finer compounds is a much safer way to proceed, but DIY is certainly possible with patience and care. If you polish through the clearcoat, the panel will need respraying, so take it easy!
HTH
Tol
As mentioned T-cut is coarse and the abrasive doesn't break down very well at all so you are likely to leave marks.
By hand you'd be better with something like Meguiars Scratch-X which contains a diminishing abrasive which when worked by hand gradually breaks down to leave a better finish.
You could always use something like Autoglym Super Resin Polish which will effectively fill any scratches and make them less visible: top with a wax to seal it all in.
By hand you'd be better with something like Meguiars Scratch-X which contains a diminishing abrasive which when worked by hand gradually breaks down to leave a better finish.
You could always use something like Autoglym Super Resin Polish which will effectively fill any scratches and make them less visible: top with a wax to seal it all in.
Neil_Sc said:
As mentioned T-cut is coarse and the abrasive doesn't break down very well at all so you are likely to leave marks.
By hand you'd be better with something like Meguiars Scratch-X which contains a diminishing abrasive which when worked by hand gradually breaks down to leave a better finish.
You could always use something like Autoglym Super Resin Polish which will effectively fill any scratches and make them less visible: top with a wax to seal it all in.
By hand you'd be better with something like Meguiars Scratch-X which contains a diminishing abrasive which when worked by hand gradually breaks down to leave a better finish.
You could always use something like Autoglym Super Resin Polish which will effectively fill any scratches and make them less visible: top with a wax to seal it all in.
How do you rate Mothers Scratch Remover against Meguiars Scratch X? I have both, and was told that the Mothers is more abrasive so to start with that then finish with the Meguiars.
Neil_Sc said:
Not tried the Mothers myself, but should expect it will be good, they make good products.
I rely exclusively on machine polishers these days.
I rely exclusively on machine polishers these days.
The Mothers stuff I use I really like, especially the Carnuba Wax paste.
Mmmm, machine polisher. With 4 cars I was thinking about investing in one of these but I'm a bit worried that I'll end up polishing all the bloody topcoat off. Was thinking about visiting one of you pro detailers for my TVR but (a) the nose is so scarred up with stone chips as I enjoy using the car as mush as possible, and (b) half a dozen washes later I'd probably have all the swirls back, it didn't seem worth it.
Finish overall isn't bad so I couldn't really justify a couple of hundred quid on a pro job.
The wash technique is the most important and the one I'm continually trying to improve.
IMO it's well worth investing in this first and then you can deswirl and be safe in the knowledge your not going to put much back in.
Two things which have reduced marring for me are
1) Autobrite foam lance
2) Water filter
The foam lance prewash has been very effective for me, removing loose contaminents and leaving the car with just a layer of grime to remove with a mitt.
I then use a totally separate bucket on the wheels and a totally separate mitt, these never go near the paint work.
After this, the two bucket wash method, one for shampoo, one for clean rinse water with a mitt, go over the car slowly, not applying pressure to the mitt, let it glide.
Rinse the car and then the final rinse is with 0 parts per million filtered water, this means I do not have to touch the car, it dries without any spotting.
I have managed to only put in very very light marring into the car in 6 months, most of which I believe was before I had the filter and foam lance.
Going to remove the fine marring in the next month or so and assess the car over summer.
It is useful to have a machine polisher for maintenance, but you don't want to be out polishing all the time for fear of removing all the paint on the car!
I have a paint thickness guage to give me a little more information on how much paint is on the car and what is safe to polish.
IMO it's well worth investing in this first and then you can deswirl and be safe in the knowledge your not going to put much back in.
Two things which have reduced marring for me are
1) Autobrite foam lance
2) Water filter
The foam lance prewash has been very effective for me, removing loose contaminents and leaving the car with just a layer of grime to remove with a mitt.
I then use a totally separate bucket on the wheels and a totally separate mitt, these never go near the paint work.
After this, the two bucket wash method, one for shampoo, one for clean rinse water with a mitt, go over the car slowly, not applying pressure to the mitt, let it glide.
Rinse the car and then the final rinse is with 0 parts per million filtered water, this means I do not have to touch the car, it dries without any spotting.
I have managed to only put in very very light marring into the car in 6 months, most of which I believe was before I had the filter and foam lance.
Going to remove the fine marring in the next month or so and assess the car over summer.
It is useful to have a machine polisher for maintenance, but you don't want to be out polishing all the time for fear of removing all the paint on the car!
I have a paint thickness guage to give me a little more information on how much paint is on the car and what is safe to polish.
Just had a google on foam lance; something like this?
www.autobritedirect.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=1151
This is all a bit high tech and new for me, so pardon my ignorance. Also, what water filter would you suggest? Not just the Flash thing seen in Halfrauds I guess? Ditto the paint gauge? Ditto polisher?
BTW is this your hobby, or your profession Neil?
Lee
PS If I'm hijacking/clogging a thread happy if you PM.
www.autobritedirect.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=1151
This is all a bit high tech and new for me, so pardon my ignorance. Also, what water filter would you suggest? Not just the Flash thing seen in Halfrauds I guess? Ditto the paint gauge? Ditto polisher?
BTW is this your hobby, or your profession Neil?
Lee
PS If I'm hijacking/clogging a thread happy if you PM.
This is purely a hobby for me, although me and a mate have detailed a few cars and we do help people out on the south coast, demoing machine polishing, etc etc.
This is the autobrite lance that I have ...
www.autobritedirect.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=1207
The Super Snow Foam is very good, used 50 ml and top up the rest of the bottle to get super foam which dwells on the car and starts removing dirt, it is very effective.
The water filter I use is a Reverse Osmosis filter, plus side is that the filters can be changed for about £15 and they last 6 months, downside is that for every 1 litre of pure water it produces, it produces 3 litres of waste water (which carry away the deposits).
It takes about 2 hours to produce 20 litres of water for a rinse. Alot of people go for the Aquagleam which is a good filter and produces pure water quickly, the downside is that when it 'runs out' you have to replace the whole unit. The RO unit is £80 and the Aquagleam £45.
RO Unit from www.ro-man.com
Aquagleam from www.cleanandshiny.co.uk
As for the Paint Thickness Guage, I got one as part of a group buy on detailing world, although I don't think he's doing anymore. The nearest thing is the Positest from polishedbliss.co.uk ...
www.polishedbliss.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000002.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2epolishedbliss%2eco%2euk%2facatalog%2f&WD=positest&SHOP=%20&PN=pb180polish%2ehtml%23aPB180#aPB180
As for polishers, for beginners I always recommend the Porter Cable random orbital polisher, autopia.org a company in the states sell them, you will need to buy a transformer (screwfix do a 750 va one which is ideal) and change the cable to plug into the transformer (guides on detailing world).
The PC is a good machine, it doesn't work as quickly as the rotary polisher, but it is safer for a beginner, it's far more difficult to do damage with a PC than with a rotary.
Along with the PC, get the SFX kit, also get a 4 inch spot pad kit for tighter areas.
For the PC I recommend the Menzerna ceramiclear line of polishes, PO85RD3.02 for serious swirl removal, PO106FF for most polishing and finishing on harder paints and PO85RD for polishing and finishing on softer paints.
Polished bliss do these polishes.
It is well worth having a look on detailing world, lots of useful guides available to explain all of this, also a gentlemen on there '182_Blue' always knows the latest discount codes for Autopia, getting you 10% + discount.
If you do have a look then you'll find me over there as Neil_S
This is the autobrite lance that I have ...
www.autobritedirect.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=1207
The Super Snow Foam is very good, used 50 ml and top up the rest of the bottle to get super foam which dwells on the car and starts removing dirt, it is very effective.
The water filter I use is a Reverse Osmosis filter, plus side is that the filters can be changed for about £15 and they last 6 months, downside is that for every 1 litre of pure water it produces, it produces 3 litres of waste water (which carry away the deposits).
It takes about 2 hours to produce 20 litres of water for a rinse. Alot of people go for the Aquagleam which is a good filter and produces pure water quickly, the downside is that when it 'runs out' you have to replace the whole unit. The RO unit is £80 and the Aquagleam £45.
RO Unit from www.ro-man.com
Aquagleam from www.cleanandshiny.co.uk
As for the Paint Thickness Guage, I got one as part of a group buy on detailing world, although I don't think he's doing anymore. The nearest thing is the Positest from polishedbliss.co.uk ...
www.polishedbliss.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000002.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2epolishedbliss%2eco%2euk%2facatalog%2f&WD=positest&SHOP=%20&PN=pb180polish%2ehtml%23aPB180#aPB180
As for polishers, for beginners I always recommend the Porter Cable random orbital polisher, autopia.org a company in the states sell them, you will need to buy a transformer (screwfix do a 750 va one which is ideal) and change the cable to plug into the transformer (guides on detailing world).
The PC is a good machine, it doesn't work as quickly as the rotary polisher, but it is safer for a beginner, it's far more difficult to do damage with a PC than with a rotary.
Along with the PC, get the SFX kit, also get a 4 inch spot pad kit for tighter areas.
For the PC I recommend the Menzerna ceramiclear line of polishes, PO85RD3.02 for serious swirl removal, PO106FF for most polishing and finishing on harder paints and PO85RD for polishing and finishing on softer paints.
Polished bliss do these polishes.
It is well worth having a look on detailing world, lots of useful guides available to explain all of this, also a gentlemen on there '182_Blue' always knows the latest discount codes for Autopia, getting you 10% + discount.
If you do have a look then you'll find me over there as Neil_S
T40ORA said:
Just had a google on foam lance; something like this?
www.autobritedirect.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=1151
This is all a bit high tech and new for me, so pardon my ignorance. Also, what water filter would you suggest? Not just the Flash thing seen in Halfrauds I guess? Ditto the paint gauge? Ditto polisher?
BTW is this your hobby, or your profession Neil?
Lee
PS If I'm hijacking/clogging a thread happy if you PM.
www.autobritedirect.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=1151
This is all a bit high tech and new for me, so pardon my ignorance. Also, what water filter would you suggest? Not just the Flash thing seen in Halfrauds I guess? Ditto the paint gauge? Ditto polisher?
BTW is this your hobby, or your profession Neil?
Lee
PS If I'm hijacking/clogging a thread happy if you PM.
T40ORA said:
Neil, thanks for this. Looks like I need to do a bit of investigation then maybe build a shopping list.
I might pop along to one of the detailers meets in Ferndown that you mentioned.
Cheers
Lee
I might pop along to one of the detailers meets in Ferndown that you mentioned.
Cheers
Lee
More than welcome Lee, we can show you some of the kit at the meets and you can have a go on a PC.
The meets are announced every month on detailing world, the next one is 15th April.
Street map
www.streetmap.co.uk/newmap.srf?x=405605&y=100890&z=1&sv=nimrod+way&st=6&tl=Nimrod+Way,+Ferndown+Industrial+Estate,+Wimborne,+Dorset,+BH21&searchp=newsearch.srf&mapp=newmap.srf
9 Nimrod Way, when in Nimrod way go until you see a factory called Superior, outside their grey gates turn left through some double gates, the unit is in the far left hand side of the car park.
Start time is about 10 am until about 2-3ish.
Edited by Neil_Sc on Wednesday 28th March 11:43
Neil_Sc said:
T40ORA said:
Neil, thanks for this. Looks like I need to do a bit of investigation then maybe build a shopping list.
I might pop along to one of the detailers meets in Ferndown that you mentioned.
Cheers
Lee
I might pop along to one of the detailers meets in Ferndown that you mentioned.
Cheers
Lee
More than welcome Lee, we can show you some of the kit at the meets and you can have a go on a PC.
The meets are announced every month on detailing world, the next one is 15th April.
Street map
www.streetmap.co.uk/newmap.srf?x=405605&y=100890&z=1&sv=nimrod+way&st=6&tl=Nimrod+Way,+Ferndown+Industrial+Estate,+Wimborne,+Dorset,+BH21&searchp=newsearch.srf&mapp=newmap.srf
9 Nimrod Way, when in Nimrod way go until you see a factory called Superior, outside their grey gates turn left through some double gates, the unit is in the far left hand side of the car park.
Start time is about 10 am until about 2-3ish.
Edited by Neil_Sc on Wednesday 28th March 11:43
Cheers Neil, I'll try to make that one if I can. It's in my diary.
Lee
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