Torque Settings - Brake Discs

[andy jb]

Can anyone confirm the torque settings or have a general link for torque settings when changing front brake discs?

Any hints or tips when changing pads & discs?

[RumbleBee]

Cant help you on the torque settings but it may be an idea to get some stainless steel bolts for the calipers, will make it a lot easier next time.

[Dave N500 CHM]

andy jb said:

Can anyone confirm the torque settings or have a general link for torque settings when changing front brake discs?

Any hints or tips when changing pads & discs?

The brake disks are held my a small retaining screw once you have removed the wheels, thats assuming there is a screw (mine was missing), in that case a knock with a rubber mallet or if your chucking the disks a hammer to free it.
Don't forget to apply some copper grease to the back of the new pads.
Have fun

[Dave N500 CHM]

RumbleBee said:

Cant help you on the torque settings but it may be an idea to get some stainless steel bolts for the calipers, will make it a lot easier next time.

Erm..... don't want to scare or anything but you should never use S/T bolts on load carrying parts, you should only use H/T bolts.
S/T is brittle in comparison to H/T and over time can fatigue till it eventually sheers, not what you want to happen to your callipers when breaking hard one day.

[edtvr]

This may help,

Recommened torque settings, on the far right column.
As mention above only use 12.9 high tensile cap screws to DIN 912 standard.

Ed

[spend]

Would you like the question answered?

Dave

[shpub]

The more important thing is not to forget the loctite!

[GreenV8S]

andy jb said:

Any hints or tips when changing pads & discs?

By the time you need to change the pads you will be due to replace the fluid (unless it's been replaced recently). Take the opportunity to bleed each corner as you work on it.

Clean the calliper thoroughly using brake cleaner, especially the parts that the pads slide against. You will need to take the calliper off to release the disc. While you have it off the car, take the opportunity to check, clean and regrease the sliders. If you haven't done this before then make a careful note of where everything goes, especially the little details like which washer goes where and how the pad retaining clips are fitted. After you have finished on one corner, pump the brake pedal firmly to seat the pads. Forget this important step and you risk overflowing the reservoir when you push the pads back for the next corner, also finding the brake pedal goes to the floor when you drive off.

Clean the discs before fitting (more brake cleaner) and bed the pads in afterwards according to the manufacturers instructions.

Recheck wheel nuts after 20 miles.

[andy jb]

Fluid changed end last year, hoping to do the change without bleeding the brake fluid.

Will use HT bolts - thanks for the advice

I'm hoping it will be quick to change them

[spend]

Torque settings are available on the Peter Beech site.

[Flintstone]

Dave N500 CHM said:

..... your callipers when breaking hard one day.

Or would that be braking?

Hang on though, S/S bolts etc, you could be right

[tyre_tread]

shpub said:

The more important thing is not to forget the loctite!

I can vouch for that - I had an embarrassing moment which required the RAC but could have been an AWFUL lot worse!

Use Loctite - Trust me!

[That Daddy]

Just make sure its the Blue loctite not the Red otherwise you will struggle to remove later on,couple of drips on each bolt is ample,good luck,i would just use the stock bolts and save yourself some grief i cant remember the last seized calliper mounting bolt i had to remove.