Bigger brakes for my Wedge
Discussion
We went for a SERIOUS drive out yesterday, the 450 goes like feck !! which is just as well if I am to keep up with Gandalf this year, anyway it got me thinking about the brakes, and how to upgrade them 
The standard set up is fine and the MOT showed them to be very efficient but I think I would like a bit more stopping power.
So, whos got what upgrades?? from where ?? How much ?? any good ??
I want to get the fronts done soon, I was thinking new rotors and bigger calipers
(16 inch Wheels, SS braided hoses all through )
The standard set up is fine and the MOT showed them to be very efficient but I think I would like a bit more stopping power.
So, whos got what upgrades?? from where ?? How much ?? any good ??
I want to get the fronts done soon, I was thinking new rotors and bigger calipers
(16 inch Wheels, SS braided hoses all through )
Edited by BadRedWedge on Tuesday 27th March 07:17
300mm vented, 4-pots up front, in my standard 15" rims. So you probably could go even larger, but be carefull not to upset the brake bias of the car (if you have questions ask greenv8s). Upgrading the brakes was the first thing that I did when buying it in 2001. Had the solid disk setup (it could slow the car, wouldn't call it braking....), and yours is a lot better.
Still very happy with my setup, that includes braided hoses, dot5.1 and fast road pads alround. Although it seems that some people would not recommend the company I got this set from. Only grooved, not drilled disks. The rear is good enough for a wedge, but could use some air directed to them.
Rob
Still very happy with my setup, that includes braided hoses, dot5.1 and fast road pads alround. Although it seems that some people would not recommend the company I got this set from. Only grooved, not drilled disks. The rear is good enough for a wedge, but could use some air directed to them.
Rob
Bigger Brakes??? 
Darren It WILL WORK if you have the faith300 is OK in a Wedge doesn't upset the brake balance. The rear brakes are pretty meaty anyway. It is worth fitting an adjustable brake balance unit though as this gives the ability to adjust and get a bit more out of the setup. I also found that I could get the rear brakes to actually do some work.
Towerv View do kits (based on various 520SE brake incarnations) and can also supply cooling vents for the rear brakes if you need them.
Towerv View do kits (based on various 520SE brake incarnations) and can also supply cooling vents for the rear brakes if you need them.
When you say - they need replacement - why is that?
Are they below minimum thickness?
I have heard it's a fiddly job - the driveshafts have to come out.
If it's just a bit of corrosion - I have had good results in the past cleaning up brake discs with an angle grinder. After seeing this on a truck racing programme: rest the angle grinder lightly against the disc while you rotate the axle. Don't let the grinder rest too long in any one spot. All the crud pings off. Then stick on some fresh pads and drive it.
Are they below minimum thickness?
I have heard it's a fiddly job - the driveshafts have to come out.
If it's just a bit of corrosion - I have had good results in the past cleaning up brake discs with an angle grinder. After seeing this on a truck racing programme: rest the angle grinder lightly against the disc while you rotate the axle. Don't let the grinder rest too long in any one spot. All the crud pings off. Then stick on some fresh pads and drive it.
Wonderful idea Adam
Left side disc is grooved badly, probably due to someone in the past using car with pads completely worn down. Looks bad but it passed mot last year for prev owner. Will ask around local mechanics and see what they think before putting in for big job. I read threads when searching 'inboard'. Sure seems tricky. May ask some P6 lads as I am still in the club
Left side disc is grooved badly, probably due to someone in the past using car with pads completely worn down. Looks bad but it passed mot last year for prev owner. Will ask around local mechanics and see what they think before putting in for big job. I read threads when searching 'inboard'. Sure seems tricky. May ask some P6 lads as I am still in the club
BadRedWedge said:
We went for a SERIOUS drive out yesterday, the 450 goes like feck !! which is just as well if I am to keep up with Gandalf this year, anyway it got me thinking about the brakes, and how to upgrade them
The standard set up is fine and the MOT showed them to be very efficient but I think I would like a bit more stopping power.
So, whos got what upgrades?? from where ?? How much ?? any good ??
I want to get the fronts done soon, I was thinking new rotors and bigger calipers
(16 inch Wheels, SS braided hoses all through )
The standard set up is fine and the MOT showed them to be very efficient but I think I would like a bit more stopping power.
So, whos got what upgrades?? from where ?? How much ?? any good ??
I want to get the fronts done soon, I was thinking new rotors and bigger calipers
(16 inch Wheels, SS braided hoses all through )
Edited by BadRedWedge on Tuesday 27th March 07:17
What pads are in there ?
cuneus said:
BadRedWedge said:
We went for a SERIOUS drive out yesterday, the 450 goes like feck !! which is just as well if I am to keep up with Gandalf this year, anyway it got me thinking about the brakes, and how to upgrade them
The standard set up is fine and the MOT showed them to be very efficient but I think I would like a bit more stopping power.
So, whos got what upgrades?? from where ?? How much ?? any good ??
I want to get the fronts done soon, I was thinking new rotors and bigger calipers
(16 inch Wheels, SS braided hoses all through )
The standard set up is fine and the MOT showed them to be very efficient but I think I would like a bit more stopping power.
So, whos got what upgrades?? from where ?? How much ?? any good ??
I want to get the fronts done soon, I was thinking new rotors and bigger calipers
(16 inch Wheels, SS braided hoses all through )
Edited by BadRedWedge on Tuesday 27th March 07:17
What pads are in there ?
Not sure, never had em out yet
shadowfax said:
Wonderful idea Adam
Left side disc is grooved badly, probably due to someone in the past using car with pads completely worn down. Looks bad but it passed mot last year for prev owner. Will ask around local mechanics and see what they think before putting in for big job. I read threads when searching 'inboard'. Sure seems tricky. May ask some P6 lads as I am still in the club
Left side disc is grooved badly, probably due to someone in the past using car with pads completely worn down. Looks bad but it passed mot last year for prev owner. Will ask around local mechanics and see what they think before putting in for big job. I read threads when searching 'inboard'. Sure seems tricky. May ask some P6 lads as I am still in the club
Yeah in fact in truck racing it was the scoring that they were removing. Worked a treat.
Are you a P6'er too? I've got a 3500S.
Got a rusted beyond redemption V8 auto, whose engine I paid a guy £150 to remove last december and am still waiting. I have a P5B Coupe which is being mildly restored (windscreen seals, bits of welding, bumper rechromes) and is going for stainless system to RPI and full webasto to R&S coachbuilts, hopefully by June to be completed, and I'll do a few cheap wedding car runs just to see the people's smiling faces. May help to offset the loans this addiction to old cars has caused me
shadowfax said:
Wonderful idea Adam
Left side disc is grooved badly, probably due to someone in the past using car with pads completely worn down. Looks bad but it passed mot last year for prev owner. Will ask around local mechanics and see what they think before putting in for big job. I read threads when searching 'inboard'. Sure seems tricky. May ask some P6 lads as I am still in the club
Left side disc is grooved badly, probably due to someone in the past using car with pads completely worn down. Looks bad but it passed mot last year for prev owner. Will ask around local mechanics and see what they think before putting in for big job. I read threads when searching 'inboard'. Sure seems tricky. May ask some P6 lads as I am still in the club
To me it looks like a job to replace the U-joints with the driveshafts off the car. And the most difficult with my driveshafts were the 4 bolts that hold the driveshaft to the disk. Once this is done, it should be able to take the disk off.
Between each disk and the diff there are shims to setup the rear alignment! These need to go back as they were. All in all not too difficult, getting the stuff unbolted (rear hub nuts, disc nuts) can prove difficult like any other bolt that is on for years. The bolts holding the discs need to be replaced with full metal self-locking ones (no nyloc!). Putting everything back is no issue, except to torque up the rear hub nut. That is all...., another job done.
Rob
BadRedWedge said:
cuneus said:
BadRedWedge said:
We went for a SERIOUS drive out yesterday, the 450 goes like feck !! which is just as well if I am to keep up with Gandalf this year, anyway it got me thinking about the brakes, and how to upgrade them
The standard set up is fine and the MOT showed them to be very efficient but I think I would like a bit more stopping power.
So, whos got what upgrades?? from where ?? How much ?? any good ??
I want to get the fronts done soon, I was thinking new rotors and bigger calipers
(16 inch Wheels, SS braided hoses all through )
The standard set up is fine and the MOT showed them to be very efficient but I think I would like a bit more stopping power.
So, whos got what upgrades?? from where ?? How much ?? any good ??
I want to get the fronts done soon, I was thinking new rotors and bigger calipers
(16 inch Wheels, SS braided hoses all through )
Edited by BadRedWedge on Tuesday 27th March 07:17
What pads are in there ?
Not sure, never had em out yet
Hmm - think you have answered part of the question there !
When I tracked the 944 turbo pad material made a huge difference
What are the calipers on a 450? There may not be as much choice
adam quantrill said:
shadowfax said:
Wonderful idea Adam
Left side disc is grooved badly, probably due to someone in the past using car with pads completely worn down. Looks bad but it passed mot last year for prev owner. Will ask around local mechanics and see what they think before putting in for big job. I read threads when searching 'inboard'. Sure seems tricky. May ask some P6 lads as I am still in the club
Left side disc is grooved badly, probably due to someone in the past using car with pads completely worn down. Looks bad but it passed mot last year for prev owner. Will ask around local mechanics and see what they think before putting in for big job. I read threads when searching 'inboard'. Sure seems tricky. May ask some P6 lads as I am still in the club
Yeah in fact in truck racing it was the scoring that they were removing. Worked a treat.
Are you a P6'er too? I've got a 3500S.
A sanding disc on an angle grinder would be safer and removes a surprising amount.
adam quantrill said:
Yeah - that's probably true.
When you do this, you work across the grain, i.e. the sander or grinder abrasive surface touches near enough along a radius on the disc.
When you do this, you work across the grain, i.e. the sander or grinder abrasive surface touches near enough along a radius on the disc.
I gathered that bit; it's just that I imagine that to remove a groove with a grinder's disc and still have a flat brake disc at the end would require a very steady hand to say the least.
350zwelgje said:
shadowfax said:
Wonderful idea Adam
Left side disc is grooved badly, probably due to someone in the past using car with pads completely worn down. Looks bad but it passed mot last year for prev owner. Will ask around local mechanics and see what they think before putting in for big job. I read threads when searching 'inboard'. Sure seems tricky. May ask some P6 lads as I am still in the club
Left side disc is grooved badly, probably due to someone in the past using car with pads completely worn down. Looks bad but it passed mot last year for prev owner. Will ask around local mechanics and see what they think before putting in for big job. I read threads when searching 'inboard'. Sure seems tricky. May ask some P6 lads as I am still in the club
To me it looks like a job to replace the U-joints with the driveshafts off the car. And the most difficult with my driveshafts were the 4 bolts that hold the driveshaft to the disk. Once this is done, it should be able to take the disk off.
Between each disk and the diff there are shims to setup the rear alignment! These need to go back as they were. All in all not too difficult, getting the stuff unbolted (rear hub nuts, disc nuts) can prove difficult like any other bolt that is on for years. The bolts holding the discs need to be replaced with full metal self-locking ones (no nyloc!). Putting everything back is no issue, except to torque up the rear hub nut. That is all...., another job done.
Rob
......and the caliper needs to be removed, which is probably the most awkward bit, especially if the bolts are siezed.
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