Bugger:mad:

[s6boy]

Inspired by a recent post I decided to give my car an afternoons cleaning and polishing. So:
Bucket- Check
Hose pipe set to fine spray- Check
Chami leather- Check
Sponge- Check
Almost invisible stone on sponge- Check
Bugger Bugger Bugger
18" scratch on door- Check

Although very fine it goes back to what looks like white primer and is quite visible. Question is are there any products (T-cut etc) that are any good on light colour pearl paint, or am I going to have to make a trip to the spray booths? Sorry no pictures as camera has gone awol.
Thanks for any advise. John

Just made a search and it's officialy Mr O'Leary's fault

Edited by s6boy on Wednesday 28th March 10:46

[kmpowell]

Sorry to heaer that. I know it's a bit "closing the stable door after the horse has bolted", but In future always use a wash mit or a Microfibre towel.

e.g. www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/Store/Product/Meguiars.aspx?ProductId=308

NEVER use a sponge, for this very reason.

Edited by kmpowell on Wednesday 28th March 10:47

[touching cloth]

Dunno really, T-Cut often poo poo'd as being too abrasive and not advised that much for Tvr's - BUT - if the alternative is a trip to a spray shop then I can't see a bit of T-Cut hurting as a first attempt. If it doesn't work or causes other side effects then the end result is still a trip to the spray shop so hardly lost anything by trying.

[Horse_Apple]

s6boy said:

Inspired by a recent post I decided to give my car an afternoons cleaning and polishing. So:
Bucket- Check
Hose pipe set to fine spray- Check
Chami leather- Check
Sponge- Check
Almost invisible stone on sponge- Check
Bugger Bugger Bugger
18" scratch on door- Check

Although very fine it goes back to what looks like white primer and is quite visible. Question is are there any products (T-cut etc) that are any good on light colour pearl paint, or am I going to have to make a trip to the spray booths? Sorry no pictures as camera has gone awol.
Thanks for any advise. John

Just made a search and it's officialy Mr O'Leary's fault

Edited by s6boy on Wednesday 28th March 10:46

I had a similar thing done on a car of mine. I used the tiniest artists brush I could find and applied the thinest layer of touch up paint I could. Took ages. Once done, I then gently polished with a mild cutting polish and it had completely disapeared.

[s6boy]

kmpowell said:

Sorry to heaer that. I know it's a bit "closing the stable door after the horse has bolted", but In future always use a wash mit or a Microfibre towel.

e.g. www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/Store/Product/Meguiars.aspx?ProductId=308

NEVER use a sponge, for this very reason.

Edited by kmpowell on Wednesday 28th March 10:47

Point taken, but in my defence I was taking some pretty thick dried on mud off before getting down and sensuous with a mit

[lady topaz]

I was advised never to use "T" cut as it will remove the lacquer, so even if you do remove scratch you will also leave the surrounding area dull.
Di

[grahamn]

s6boy said:

Although very fine it goes back to what looks like white primer and is quite visible. Question is are there any products (T-cut etc) that are any good on light colour pearl paint, or am I going to have to make a trip to the spray booths?

If it has gone back to the primer then T Cut would be useless as there is no paint left to cut it back to.

[350matt]

Try some Meguires Scratch -X, you can get it from halfords, its not as aggressive as T-cut and it polishes to a fine shine, however if you are down to primer then obviously you're going to need some paint in there before polishing

Matt

[T350 Brad]

As (sort of) stated above, I appreciate it's a bit late, but a lambswool wash mitt (www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb90wash.html) would be best for cleaning... microfibre wash mitts should only really be used on wheel-arches and wheels etc. Oh, and definitely don't dry with a chamois (sp) as this could inflict more marking (swirls) ... drying towl is much better .... www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb123wash.html

Some good advice on the PolishedBliss website too

[andyoleary]

Oh dear, sorry to heat that John, bit of a nightmare eh...so it's my fault eh??!! I know, I know, I should have mentioned also that I never use a sponge (or a chamois)......

Sorry mate,

Andy

[s6boy]

Thanks all for advice and telling off, but first time I've heard chamois leather isn't good for the paint work?
No worries Andy, just promise not to park too close and embarass me with your blemish free shine

[.Mark]

So what's wrong with the old fashioned Chamois?? Not heard about this before.

Mind you - looking at my car at the moment you'd think I couldn't remember what a bucket looks like!

[T350 Brad]

Taken from the PolisedBliss website (who having seen a number of his 'details' on another forum is a bit of an authority on all things car cleaning)...

"In contrast to traditional chamois leathers, heavyweight waffle weave microfibre towels are capable of absorbing many times their own weight in water, meaning that you can dry most cars without wringing out once. In addition, the ultra soft fibres and waffle weave design significantly reduce the chances of marking any exterior surfaces when drying off. A further benefit is that heavyweight waffle weave microfibre towels are considerably easier to clean and maintain than traditional chamois leathers."

Oh, and when you're washing don't forget to use the two-bucket method (but that's another story!!!)

JB

[.Mark]

Cool, so where do I get one of these microfibre towels?

[nelly1]

I just bought a pack of 24 in Costco for £7.

[.Mark]

nelly1 said:

I just bought a pack of 24 in Costco for £7.

[T350 Brad]

.Mark said:

Cool, so where do I get one of these microfibre towels?

I'd recommend the waffle weave towel (2nd link in my post above).

I understand microfibre towels come in different 'piles' and quality etc. and something as simple as a label can mark paintwork, hence that's why i'd use a specialist drying towel. I know this is a bit @nal but you really do get what you pay for. Oh, and make sure you follow the washing instructions (typically non-bio with no fabric conditioner) otherwise you could seriously impair the quality of the product.

Everything you need to know (products and guides) is on the PolishedBliss website (www.polishedbliss.com) if you're serious about keeping your car in 'optimum' condition.

[2 sMoKiN bArReLs]

Ever tried Colour Magic, with the "crayon" thingy. I've got a starburst on my Chimaera, and if I colour it in every three months or so it disappears almost completely!

[The Surveyor]

If it's a deep scratch, you won't polish it out, and filling with a coloured wax / polish may not be totally effective. I've heard a lot of good reports about Chipsaway for this kind of thing, and much cheaper than a repaint.

I've also heard a few negatives too which i think is down to the skill of the actual agent, so may be worth trying to find one who comes recommeded in your area. Normally cost about £100 for something like that which is much cheaper than a respray...

Paul

[bindit]

T350 Brad said:

As (sort of) stated above, I appreciate it's a bit late, but a lambswool wash mitt (www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb90wash.html) would be best for cleaning... microfibre wash mitts should only really be used on wheel-arches and wheels etc. Oh, and definitely don't dry with a chamois (sp) as this could inflict more marking (swirls) ... drying towl is much better .... www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb123wash.html

Some good advice on the PolishedBliss website too

I've recently bought a whole heap of detailng products from polished bliss and can recommend the lambswool mitt and two bucket method. I've never forgiven myself for ruining a chimaera i had doing something similar. As some has stated, as a general rule of thumb, if you can feel a scratch with your finger nail, then it cannot be polished out.