Understeering Monaro
Discussion
I am now the proud owner of a VXR Monaro of about 2 weeks........WOW what a car, can't stop grinning...........
I have however a couple of queries which I am sure someone here will be able to answer for me.
I find the car understeers quite noticeably, is this due to the OE tyres or is it a "character" of the car.
I have however a couple of queries which I am sure someone here will be able to answer for me.
I find the car understeers quite noticeably, is this due to the OE tyres or is it a "character" of the car.
I've not had the geomoery checked as I've just driven it home from Greens in Rainham to Aberdeen which was about 550 miles of grin factor......which brings me to my next question. I've had fast bikes all my life (hence my user name) and each one required careful running in. Is there a running in procedure or guideline that you should follow and when should you e looking to get a first service in?
Thanks again in advance.
Thanks again in advance.
R1Mark said:
I am now the proud owner of a VXR Monaro of about 2 weeks........WOW what a car, can't stop grinning...........
I have however a couple of queries which I am sure someone here will be able to answer for me.
I find the car understeers quite noticeably, is this due to the OE tyres or is it a "character" of the car.
I have however a couple of queries which I am sure someone here will be able to answer for me.
I find the car understeers quite noticeably, is this due to the OE tyres or is it a "character" of the car.
Understeers? you mean coming into a bend the car wants to go "Straight on" this I find very hard to understand, a Monaro by it's very nature will want to "step out" Oversteer.
As a sprint car racer, hill climber and trackday driver, if as you say the car has a tendency to go straight on and dissapear into the undergrowth, then change your driving style. The old racing driver saying is slow in, and fast out, in other words, if when you are driving in a manner that induces understeer, a sharp tap on the brakes as you enter the bend will shift the weight transfer from the back to the front, therefore increasing the contact pressure on the front tyres, at this point feather the throttle to you get past the apex, gently increasing the power so the rear just wants to hang out a little, then when straight, nail it!
I just hope I haven't told my grandmother how to suck eggs!!!! if so i appolgise right now
The under steer is most noticeable when on long sweeping fast bends, you can feel a slight vagueness, I would add however its not the sort of under steer that has me worrying about the local wild life and fauna, but I would like a little more response on initial turn in and a little less understeer through the bend.
I am aware i can change my driving style to compensate but I doubt the boys in blue would appreciate that style of driving on the queens highways!!!
I am aware i can change my driving style to compensate but I doubt the boys in blue would appreciate that style of driving on the queens highways!!!
as Roger says you will surley find that the stearing geometry (Toe, camber & castor) is not set perfectly. Just had mine done with poly front drag strut bushes and it makes a deal of difference. Havnt had chance to give it the beans yet but the mod and adjustments make a noticable difference to turn in and straight line feel (doesnt feel like it is wandering anymore or drifting off line).
But the best thing is the new oil and friction modifier in the LSD, too much right foot and the back end is sideways in a instance.
I wonder how many Ros out there would benefit from these two simple changes.
Have to say the set up at Monfishs new workshop is impressive and the piece of kit that measures stearing geometry is amazing. If i can find out how I will post the before and after figures.
Andy
But the best thing is the new oil and friction modifier in the LSD, too much right foot and the back end is sideways in a instance.
I wonder how many Ros out there would benefit from these two simple changes.
Have to say the set up at Monfishs new workshop is impressive and the piece of kit that measures stearing geometry is amazing. If i can find out how I will post the before and after figures.
Andy
From what I read ,If I understand correct!! your understeer problems are on the public highway.
Take to the track and the OEM setup induces severe understeer.Setup requires minimum 2.5 degs neg camber on rear and I ran 3 to 3.5 on front. this made a heavy car going into a,hard ,sharp bend with little weight on car(ie Quarry at Castle Coombe)turn in so much more,with a more firm feel.Public highways tell you little in my opinion.
Take to the track and the OEM setup induces severe understeer.Setup requires minimum 2.5 degs neg camber on rear and I ran 3 to 3.5 on front. this made a heavy car going into a,hard ,sharp bend with little weight on car(ie Quarry at Castle Coombe)turn in so much more,with a more firm feel.Public highways tell you little in my opinion.
Geometry adjustments can increase or decrease tyre life, depends what you do and what the end result is that you seek.
Huge amounts of negative camber for example (as suggested) can improve cornering, but will wear out your tyres - fast.
Tell me what, if any the problem is, and what you wish to achieve. Once understood, then a solution can be devised.
In Yorkkies case, no increase in tyre wear should occur, indeed, probably less.
Feel free to call me to discuss.
Huge amounts of negative camber for example (as suggested) can improve cornering, but will wear out your tyres - fast.
Tell me what, if any the problem is, and what you wish to achieve. Once understood, then a solution can be devised.
In Yorkkies case, no increase in tyre wear should occur, indeed, probably less.
Feel free to call me to discuss.
I've just fitted a KW variant 3 coilover set up and been trawling around for info on damper set up, came across this which might be interesting: www.wtrscca.org/tech.htm#problems
Good link. Consider though that it is aimed at track set up from what i can see. Road cars require compromises that racers need not concern themselves with. No slow down ramps or potholes on track!
Indeed, at the risk of getting shot down in flames, it is more difficult to set up a quick road car that can deal with everything that is thrown at it, than a track car, so many more variables to contend with.
Indeed, at the risk of getting shot down in flames, it is more difficult to set up a quick road car that can deal with everything that is thrown at it, than a track car, so many more variables to contend with.
Edited by monkfish1 on Sunday 1st April 22:42
monkfish1 said:
Id suggest poly drag strut bushes and some alignment changes, similar to yorkkies car and see how you go. Beyond that, i think you will need some better suspension to assist achieving your aim.
Thanks for the info..............now where is my cheue book LOL
Edited by R1Mark on Monday 2nd April 20:35
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