Rear light wiring.
Discussion
Having a problem with the PCB track to bulb contacts. Shouldn't have disturbed them, my fault, but getting a good contact is a mare. Resistance wise 4-12 ohm then infinity, then zero etc etc.
So, not wanting flames (zorst ones excepted) anyone see anything wrong with this? It been a while since I messed with the electrics too much.
Sums. I get a theoretical (indicators, brake, fog, 2 side lights) 6 amps total load if all bulbs are on on the rear, one side only. So using 8 amp cabling (lowest rated I had) I have replaced the existing connections with a hard wired option. I assume the earth around the light pod will be OK, the PCB connection strip at the existing connector is only a thin affair and can't see that taking 8 amps or do I need a haberdashery? The Earth runs from the one bulb earth through the other bulb earths to the connector. All crimped then soldered. Vehicle loom connector snipped off and matching lucar holder for the light assemble fitted.
Piccy to show

So, not wanting flames (zorst ones excepted) anyone see anything wrong with this? It been a while since I messed with the electrics too much.
Sums. I get a theoretical (indicators, brake, fog, 2 side lights) 6 amps total load if all bulbs are on on the rear, one side only. So using 8 amp cabling (lowest rated I had) I have replaced the existing connections with a hard wired option. I assume the earth around the light pod will be OK, the PCB connection strip at the existing connector is only a thin affair and can't see that taking 8 amps or do I need a haberdashery? The Earth runs from the one bulb earth through the other bulb earths to the connector. All crimped then soldered. Vehicle loom connector snipped off and matching lucar holder for the light assemble fitted.
Piccy to show

Electrically it should be OK; I'd be making sure that the taped joint can't fret anywhere and wear the tape through, and maybe some way (P-clip?) of securing the whole bundle to the lamp housing so that nothing pulls the wiring apart.
Otherwise, not a bad solution
Highest wattage lamp normally used at the rear is 21W qhich will take less than 2A at 12v so I wouldn't worry about the wire gauge, even for the earth: you don't normally spend too long with EVERY lamp lit.
Otherwise, not a bad solution
Highest wattage lamp normally used at the rear is 21W qhich will take less than 2A at 12v so I wouldn't worry about the wire gauge, even for the earth: you don't normally spend too long with EVERY lamp lit.
Cheers Ian. On the right track then. I was going to put a double sided sticky pad under the taped joint. Got a roll of the stuff knocking around when I can find it. Forgot about the main bundle moving. I have P clips. Just need to be careful as the PCB is still connected to the bulbs. Think I have some plastic screws somewhere.
Now for the other side.
Now for the other side.
Edited by jmorgan on Sunday 1st April 14:20
Only one comment - the earth wire has to take the load of all those bulbs. I would make it into a loop (like a ring main), which has two contacts on the connector - for redundancy. I think you'll find some heavier wire on the loom side to link both earth ends into. Check the earthing on the original connector - there are three earths.
- Adam
- Adam
Looping is and easy fix. My sums show 6ish amps total if all the lights were on at the same time, including the indicator (which will all be ).
I have two earth wires going in on the loom side not three? Assuming one is the link to the other light pod which only has one. There is a heavier gauge then the lighter gauge appears to cross over to the other side.
I have two earth wires going in on the loom side not three? Assuming one is the link to the other light pod which only has one. There is a heavier gauge then the lighter gauge appears to cross over to the other side.
Edited by jmorgan on Tuesday 3rd April 08:23
grady said:
Once all wedge wiring was black... Now it's all red... 

I could say it was done in honor of the original wiring on Wedges..... but then I could also say I had only three colours left and the red appeared to be a more suitable gauge....... the original was all tarnished copper coloured

jmorgan said:
Looping is and easy fix. My sums show 6ish amps total if all the lights were on at the same time, including the indicator (which will all be ).
I have two earth wires going in on the loom side not three? Assuming one is the link to the other light pod which only has one. There is a heavier gauge then the lighter gauge appears to cross over to the other side.
Surely the indicator will be on ... and off ... and on ... I have two earth wires going in on the loom side not three? Assuming one is the link to the other light pod which only has one. There is a heavier gauge then the lighter gauge appears to cross over to the other side.
Edited by jmorgan on Tuesday 3rd April 08:23
- Streaky streaky said:
jmorgan said:
Looping is and easy fix. My sums show 6ish amps total if all the lights were on at the same time, including the indicator (which will all be ).
I have two earth wires going in on the loom side not three? Assuming one is the link to the other light pod which only has one. There is a heavier gauge then the lighter gauge appears to cross over to the other side.
Surely the indicator will be on ... and off ... and on ... I have two earth wires going in on the loom side not three? Assuming one is the link to the other light pod which only has one. There is a heavier gauge then the lighter gauge appears to cross over to the other side.
Edited by jmorgan on Tuesday 3rd April 08:23
- Streaky There's me thinking it was intermittent
Didn't want to overlook the one occasion where I might cause a problem. Bit like stuck in the rain, fog and at a junction where I cannot pull out and handbrake failed so I have to use the foot brake. Just call me paranoid.
l33 said:
Jeff, I have a couple of spare rear light circuit boards if you need them.
L33.

L33.
Thanks greatly. Much appreciated but will decline. Started the surgery as I assumed they were rocking horse doo dah. I think I am sorted now and think the hard wire option is more secure than the pressure option. Just doesn't look pretty and the connectors were already exposed. Need to cut a cover out of something to finish it off. Problem concerning me was burnishing the coper part of the PCB. It would only tarnish again.
S.Hogan(spilling?) also left a phone message about some on ebay and that you can still get them from the dealer.
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