DIY Mapping........
Discussion
I did a stage 1 remap on my 02 WRX Sportwagon a couple of days ago and i am pleasantly suprised at it's efficacy. The only other mods i have are a green panel air filter and a Group N backbox. After this i am definately going to get the rest of the Group N high flow cat system for an xtra 20-30bhp, quicker spool up and added smoothness and do the Snorkus mod. Currently my exhaust is standard though so i still have 3 cats in place 
Not for long tho 
Not only is mapping a really interesting subject but you would be amazed just how much you can actually do by yourself and there isn't a single setting you can't tweak. Once i have a proper exhasut in place i'll take it to stage 2 map and i have one of those too ready to rock and roll. The stage one map seems to have a lot more noticeable power and torque than the standard map and i have one or two little niggling issues which i can iron out in time, with some more practice/tweaking, although the power delivery is very linear and boost comes on much earlier than before.
I would definately recommend you do this yourself, if you are that way inclined and like to know about the black arts. You can get hold of plenty of base and modded maps FOC, software is FOC. The ODBII cable and read/write connectors you purchase from the USA at $99 including postage, plus UK customs at £23.50. This is still much cheaper than you can get from here, even off EBAY.
Obviously i am very happy and have saved myself a shedload of cash but right now until i get the right software, and without visiting a rolling road, i couldn't tell you the actual torque/horsepower it's delivering. The right software and a decent empty straight road though is all you need to do BHP/Torque or general data logging. I've been told by the guys that do ECUTEK mapping that doing all the tuning/logging on the road is a lot more 'REAL WORLD' than doing it on a rolling road, however rolling roads are there for a reason and i have no doubts i will be using one soon.
You can download maps FOC for 2001 - 2007 WRX/STi's but you will need the appropriate cable/connectors.
If any would be Scooby DIY'ers want info on the above let me know and i'll happily oblige.
A chap driving an STi on the motorway today saw me coming up behind him, he booted it when the road was clear, and got a bit of a shock when and i was still clinging to his bumper for several miles till he got off the motorway.
Sportwagons rule....the ultimate Q car
Not for long tho Not only is mapping a really interesting subject but you would be amazed just how much you can actually do by yourself and there isn't a single setting you can't tweak. Once i have a proper exhasut in place i'll take it to stage 2 map and i have one of those too ready to rock and roll. The stage one map seems to have a lot more noticeable power and torque than the standard map and i have one or two little niggling issues which i can iron out in time, with some more practice/tweaking, although the power delivery is very linear and boost comes on much earlier than before.
I would definately recommend you do this yourself, if you are that way inclined and like to know about the black arts. You can get hold of plenty of base and modded maps FOC, software is FOC. The ODBII cable and read/write connectors you purchase from the USA at $99 including postage, plus UK customs at £23.50. This is still much cheaper than you can get from here, even off EBAY.
Obviously i am very happy and have saved myself a shedload of cash but right now until i get the right software, and without visiting a rolling road, i couldn't tell you the actual torque/horsepower it's delivering. The right software and a decent empty straight road though is all you need to do BHP/Torque or general data logging. I've been told by the guys that do ECUTEK mapping that doing all the tuning/logging on the road is a lot more 'REAL WORLD' than doing it on a rolling road, however rolling roads are there for a reason and i have no doubts i will be using one soon.
You can download maps FOC for 2001 - 2007 WRX/STi's but you will need the appropriate cable/connectors.
If any would be Scooby DIY'ers want info on the above let me know and i'll happily oblige.
A chap driving an STi on the motorway today saw me coming up behind him, he booted it when the road was clear, and got a bit of a shock when and i was still clinging to his bumper for several miles till he got off the motorway.
Sportwagons rule....the ultimate Q car
Edited by scoobiewrx on Friday 6th April 18:56
A PLX M-300 controller with an R500 for real-time data logging, with those lovely displays would be great but they aren't cheap and i am trying to do this on a tight budget so in order to change the air/fuel ratio i use a small piggy-back device that's linked into the Air temp sensor thats built into the MAF.
As for logging i use ECU explorer and Enginuity for real-time map study/logs and ECUFlash for Flashing, but i suppose it's all a bit basic compared to the PLX kit...however basic is good as i am just starting out.
what i am looking for though is some free software that will calculate BHP and Torque so if you have any ideas please let me know.
As for logging i use ECU explorer and Enginuity for real-time map study/logs and ECUFlash for Flashing, but i suppose it's all a bit basic compared to the PLX kit...however basic is good as i am just starting out.
what i am looking for though is some free software that will calculate BHP and Torque so if you have any ideas please let me know.
Problem is you can adjust things, but are you making more power?
The only way to tell on the road is your acceleration. Meaning you need to run the same bit of road, at the same temp, weight etc. and see if you are quicker.
You really can't be that accurate, which is why Dyno's are needed.
I've an AEM ecu and everything is tweakable (I'm currently running 316 @ wheels, or about 380 @ fly). I can setup launch control, traction control etc. There are maps for varing Boost/Cams/Nitro etc.
If you get a Apexi RSM, you can add a G-sensor that'll roughly calculate your BHP (from acceleration and weight). You'd be looking £150 for the RSM and £50 for the G-sensor.
The only way to tell on the road is your acceleration. Meaning you need to run the same bit of road, at the same temp, weight etc. and see if you are quicker.
You really can't be that accurate, which is why Dyno's are needed.
I've an AEM ecu and everything is tweakable (I'm currently running 316 @ wheels, or about 380 @ fly). I can setup launch control, traction control etc. There are maps for varing Boost/Cams/Nitro etc.
If you get a Apexi RSM, you can add a G-sensor that'll roughly calculate your BHP (from acceleration and weight). You'd be looking £150 for the RSM and £50 for the G-sensor.
Edited by Bibbs on Tuesday 10th April 22:52
Bibbs said:
Problem is you can adjust things, but are you making more power?
The only way to tell on the road is your acceleration. Meaning you need to run the same bit of road, at the same temp, weight etc. and see if you are quicker.
You really can't be that accurate, which is why Dyno's are needed.
I've an AEM ecu and everything is tweakable (I'm currently running 316 @ wheels, or about 380 @ fly). I can setup launch control, traction control etc. There are maps for varing Boost/Cams/Nitro etc.
If you get a Apexi RSM, you can add a G-sensor that'll roughly calculate your BHP (from acceleration and weight). You'd be looking £150 for the RSM and £50 for the G-sensor.
The only way to tell on the road is your acceleration. Meaning you need to run the same bit of road, at the same temp, weight etc. and see if you are quicker.
You really can't be that accurate, which is why Dyno's are needed.
I've an AEM ecu and everything is tweakable (I'm currently running 316 @ wheels, or about 380 @ fly). I can setup launch control, traction control etc. There are maps for varing Boost/Cams/Nitro etc.
If you get a Apexi RSM, you can add a G-sensor that'll roughly calculate your BHP (from acceleration and weight). You'd be looking £150 for the RSM and £50 for the G-sensor.
Edited by Bibbs on Tuesday 10th April 22:52
Thanks for the info Bibbs....i'll take a look at that.
P.S. I know the car is loads quicker than it was purely from the way it takes off now and accelerates through the gears from 2800 rpm right through to the redline. I have also matched it up against the original map...just to make sure i wasn't dreaming and there is a very noticeable difference in performance, especially more torque much lower down which was one of the things i wanted. The STi i chased down the motorway wasn't getting away from me either and we were travelling at reasonable speeds
As for 0-60mph i don't know with this new map but i will be doing some logging at the weekend with the old and new maps just to make comparisons, that should give me some idea of roughly how much quicker between the two.
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