Driveshaft / hub carrier bearing gone
Discussion
Hi guys.
Took the car out on Monday for a long drive and half way round it started handling like a tea trolley (rear steering) while making grinding & knocking noises from the back axle/IRS.
Limped home, got it up on stands last night to inspect and found the OSR wheel had loads of play in it.
Took wheel off and it seems the hub / driveshaft is banging around inside the rear hub carrier, looks like whatever bearing is in there is knackered.
It appears the hub is held onto the carrier by one big nut and I have heard the horror stories of these coming loose with loss of wheels, and owners split pinning them for future safety.
I have just ordered the "Wedge Bible" for advice but as always thought this font of wedge wisdom was bound to be helpfull.
The driveshaft UJ's seem ok but I religously grease them, (every easter and christmas!)
Do I have to remove the hub carrier and control arms, then replace all the bushes ect?
Who's done this job and have you any tips please? or am I about to learn some new swear words?
Took the car out on Monday for a long drive and half way round it started handling like a tea trolley (rear steering) while making grinding & knocking noises from the back axle/IRS.
Limped home, got it up on stands last night to inspect and found the OSR wheel had loads of play in it.
Took wheel off and it seems the hub / driveshaft is banging around inside the rear hub carrier, looks like whatever bearing is in there is knackered.
It appears the hub is held onto the carrier by one big nut and I have heard the horror stories of these coming loose with loss of wheels, and owners split pinning them for future safety.
I have just ordered the "Wedge Bible" for advice but as always thought this font of wedge wisdom was bound to be helpfull.
The driveshaft UJ's seem ok but I religously grease them, (every easter and christmas!)
Do I have to remove the hub carrier and control arms, then replace all the bushes ect?
Who's done this job and have you any tips please? or am I about to learn some new swear words?
Edited by racingsnake on Wednesday 11th April 13:29
Not personally done it - had a local garage do it
Think it was < £200 for one side.
It's a bitch of a job to get the bearing in (I'm guessing here..)
and will probably need a bearing press.
You could always part DIY and have a pro fit the bearings ..
To remove hub :
Remove wheel
Loosen very large nut - I seem to remember this as being something like 38mm.. you will need a very long lever bar - I used a scaffold pole. 3/4 in drive is recommended. I used 1/2 drive but be aware that it could break.
Remove the bolt x 2 securing the bottom of the shock / spring.
Remove large drive shart nut
Push bottom suspension arm down to remove drive shaft from hub.
That's it..
Paying someone £20 in notes to press in a bearing is a better bet than destroying a hub that is no longer obtainable.. IMHO.
Torque for tightening that hub is described as FBT - ffffing bloody tight .. somewhere in the region of 320 ft lbs of torque.
Good luck.
Think it was < £200 for one side.
It's a bitch of a job to get the bearing in (I'm guessing here..)
and will probably need a bearing press.
You could always part DIY and have a pro fit the bearings ..
To remove hub :
Remove wheel
Loosen very large nut - I seem to remember this as being something like 38mm.. you will need a very long lever bar - I used a scaffold pole. 3/4 in drive is recommended. I used 1/2 drive but be aware that it could break.
Remove the bolt x 2 securing the bottom of the shock / spring.
Remove large drive shart nut
Push bottom suspension arm down to remove drive shaft from hub.
That's it..
Paying someone £20 in notes to press in a bearing is a better bet than destroying a hub that is no longer obtainable.. IMHO.
Torque for tightening that hub is described as FBT - ffffing bloody tight .. somewhere in the region of 320 ft lbs of torque.
Good luck.
Edited by rev-erend on Wednesday 11th April 13:44
It's possible to bash out the old bearing and I ground down a bolster to do this. Personally I would use a press to get the new bearing back in, the chances of damaging it are too high otherwise. I think the hub nut torque is 220lb/ft. I would use a new nut with some form of locking, either drill and split pin, locktight etc.....especially if it's the N/S wheel. Oh, and the bearing is a MK2 Granada, but on the Granada there are different seals front and back, TVR use the same one both front and back. I notice you are in the Northwest, if it helps I've got a torque wrench and some tools I made up to help press the bearing in. Cheers Steve
Thanks guys, I think I will remove it myself then let the local machine shop press a new bearing in.
There's a lot of movement but hopefully it's not damaged the carrier or the shaft.
Thank's for the offer of tools Steve but I am pretty tooled up here and can usually get anything big (3/4 drive sockets ect) from work as I work in quarrying.
I will let you know the outcome cheers.
There's a lot of movement but hopefully it's not damaged the carrier or the shaft.
Thank's for the offer of tools Steve but I am pretty tooled up here and can usually get anything big (3/4 drive sockets ect) from work as I work in quarrying.
I will let you know the outcome cheers.
Had this problem 3 years ago, with the nearside rear, it depends what set up you have, mine is the trailing arm suspension with a seperate alloy hub carrier and was fairly easy to do but you need access to a bearing press, to push out the old bearing and push the new one in.
A good 3/4" socket set is needed, an 8ft length of scaffold tubing to act as a lever, and a spare axel stand is required to act as a crutch for the socket extension.
The big nut must be replaced with a new one (David Gerald stock them along with the bearing)
Some of the later cars had a one piece trailing arm with built in hub carrier and that means the whole thing has to come off.
Cant remember what the torque figure for the nut was, but I seem to recall that the wedge bible said to get it as tight as possible.
The job took about 3 1/2 hours in total and the wheel hasn't fallen off yet!
A good 3/4" socket set is needed, an 8ft length of scaffold tubing to act as a lever, and a spare axel stand is required to act as a crutch for the socket extension.
The big nut must be replaced with a new one (David Gerald stock them along with the bearing)
Some of the later cars had a one piece trailing arm with built in hub carrier and that means the whole thing has to come off.
Cant remember what the torque figure for the nut was, but I seem to recall that the wedge bible said to get it as tight as possible.
The job took about 3 1/2 hours in total and the wheel hasn't fallen off yet!
Think you are probably to far away from you profile. But I did this last year and have all the necessary tools including 30ton press Job took about 20 mins a side (suspension was already dismantled) Richard thorpe has the seal if you have any trouble. The circlip is large and a ratchet set of pliars is useful
PS I am in Bucks
PS I am in Bucks
I did this job myself at home. All parts sourced from Wedge Automotive (now RT) I was able to drift out the old bearing quite easily and to gently drift the new one into position. It's going to be a lot quicker with a hydraulic press though.
If you use a liquid threadlock on the hub nut make sure it is properly cleaned first and only put enough locktight on to cover a few threads otherwise you will have a pig of a job undoing it when that time comes.
The only gotcha I had was finding out I needed to replace shocker eye bushes. I got a bit inventive with reusing bushes out of some Elise scrap dampers.
If you use a liquid threadlock on the hub nut make sure it is properly cleaned first and only put enough locktight on to cover a few threads otherwise you will have a pig of a job undoing it when that time comes.
The only gotcha I had was finding out I needed to replace shocker eye bushes. I got a bit inventive with reusing bushes out of some Elise scrap dampers.
Thanks for the advice guys.
Took it apart last night (15mins) only needed a 6ft scaffold in the end lol.
I will get the parts ordered today.
Happily when I started undoing the wishbone and tie bar bolts the previous mechanic has copperslipped it all so it came apart without any strain.
It's nice when people think about the future maintenance and do things properly.
Took it apart last night (15mins) only needed a 6ft scaffold in the end lol.
I will get the parts ordered today.
Happily when I started undoing the wishbone and tie bar bolts the previous mechanic has copperslipped it all so it came apart without any strain.
It's nice when people think about the future maintenance and do things properly.
Well it's done put it all together yesterday all copper slipped up and groovy baby - dead easy, gave the UJ's a good grease up too.
Top tip (hub carrier in oven for an hour with new bearing in the freezer at the same time and hey presto who needs a bearing press?)
Been up to Blackpool today in the sunshine, it's lovely to be back in the wedge by eck.
Had a blast.
Thanks for all the offers of tools, I got massive torque wrench from a Fred Dibnah like character at work which helped no end.
Top tip (hub carrier in oven for an hour with new bearing in the freezer at the same time and hey presto who needs a bearing press?)
Been up to Blackpool today in the sunshine, it's lovely to be back in the wedge by eck.
Had a blast.
Thanks for all the offers of tools, I got massive torque wrench from a Fred Dibnah like character at work which helped no end.
Edited by racingsnake on Sunday 29th April 19:11
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff