Discussion
At over 13 Amps it's most likely to destroy switches unless there's a beefy relay in the circuit! Automotive wiring is normally quite similar in gauge to normal household mains flex so if the insulation on the wires is going to give up it wont be immediately but after at least a few hours of running. Vehicles of this vintage often have a relay on the main beam cct and the dip beam and side lights are directly switched. If this is the case with the Wedge wiring scheme then the problem will show up first with the dip beam. Question is.. if it's 160W main beam then what rating is the dip beam filament? 55, 90, 120
My recommendation would be to use standard wattage bulbs unless you are going to make a special loom with uprated cabling, relays etc. If you do this then run power from a spare fuse in the fuse box or fit a new auxiliary fuse box then simply use the original main beam/dip beam supplies as signals to switch the new relay/s.
My recommendation would be to use standard wattage bulbs unless you are going to make a special loom with uprated cabling, relays etc. If you do this then run power from a spare fuse in the fuse box or fit a new auxiliary fuse box then simply use the original main beam/dip beam supplies as signals to switch the new relay/s.
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