Clutch Replacment
Clutch Replacment
Author
Discussion

5150neo

Original Poster:

154 posts

293 months

Saturday 3rd May 2003
quotequote all
I'm replacing the clutch and seal for the accuator arm on the gear box this weekend. Do any of you guys know if I can pick up a clutch allignment tool at a local auto parts store, or must it be purchased from Lotus? If I can do it outside Lotus do you have a part number and store name?

Thanks
John

lotusguy

1,798 posts

281 months

Sunday 4th May 2003
quotequote all
John,

Pretty much any clutch alignment tool will work. Be sure to replace the nylatron thrust washer on the Primary shaft where it inputs to the crank - very important!

The Pilot bearing is always suspect on these cars, so I personally would plan on replacing that too as long as I had it all apart. Very cheap Insurance. Good Luck! Happy Motoring! Jim'85TE

5150neo

Original Poster:

154 posts

293 months

Sunday 4th May 2003
quotequote all
Hea, I'm being my usual anal self about the alignment tool. I also went ahead and purchased a pilot bearing for the very reason you stated, cheap insurance. But to my dismay it looks as though I need a new fly wheel. It was my biggest worry all along. As I slowly pulled the clutch off the wheel it revealed a friction surface that looked like a child had blown bubbles on it. You know, that multi-color look when water mixes w/ oil. Ouch, another $550. Anyway, the thrust washer your talking about. Is it between the pilot bearing and the input shaft? When I removed the gear box there was no washer between the two.

Thank you

John

lotusguy

1,798 posts

281 months

Sunday 4th May 2003
quotequote all

5150neo said: Hea, I'm being my usual anal self about the alignment tool. I also went ahead and purchased a pilot bearing for the very reason you stated, cheap insurance. But to my dismay it looks as though I need a new fly wheel. It was my biggest worry all along. As I slowly pulled the clutch off the wheel it revealed a friction surface that looked like a child had blown bubbles on it. You know, that multi-color look when water mixes w/ oil. Ouch, another $550. Anyway, the thrust washer your talking about. Is it between the pilot bearing and the input shaft? When I removed the gear box there was no washer between the two.

Thank you

John


John,

Good work on the pilot bearing! Yes, the nylon thrust washer lives between the input shaft and the recess in the crankshaft. It's function is tp prevent the spring loaded primary shaft from augering into the crank, most important $5 piece on the car!

Why not try having the flywheel turned and see if it's still serviceable? Just a thought. Happy Mororing! Jim'85TE

5150neo

Original Poster:

154 posts

293 months

Monday 5th May 2003
quotequote all
When in doubt, read the manual. According to the manual, the washer is only used on Citro gear boxes. It also shows no washer being used on Renalt gear boxes. I guess that explains why I didn't see one when I removed the unit.
It turns out that the cause of the flywheel contamination was the rear main oil seal was starting to let oil pass. And the cashier rings up another sale!

Thanks for the replys Jim

John

lotusguy

1,798 posts

281 months

Tuesday 6th May 2003
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John,

You're right thee renault gearbox does not have the nylon thrust washer. I dunno why, but since you never mentioned the model/year of your Esprit, I thought we were talking pre-'88.

Rear seal is not too bad once you're in there. You must heat up the cover and then press the seal into it as it is a negative fit. Be carefule getting it aligned properly or it will tear loose...ask me how I know! Happy Motoring! Jim'85TE

5150neo

Original Poster:

154 posts

293 months

Tuesday 6th May 2003
quotequote all
Its funny you mention that. I was taking a close look at the old seal (still pressed in the housing) last night wondering how to tackle this. A little axpansion will without question help with this one. Thanks for pointing that out, and possibly saving me the cost of a second seal.

John

lotusguy

1,798 posts

281 months

Tuesday 6th May 2003
quotequote all

5150neo said: Its funny you mention that. I was taking a close look at the old seal (still pressed in the housing) last night wondering how to tackle this. A little axpansion will without question help with this one. Thanks for pointing that out, and possibly saving me the cost of a second seal.

John


John,

To do the seal, you want to have a couple scraps of 2X4 handy. Then heat the cover (sans the old seal) in an oven at 300° for 10 min. Then remove it, place it on the piece of 2X4 and lay the seal across the opening. Then using the other 2X4 piece as a drift, lightly hammer it flush w/ the cover. You will get a slight melt along the edge of the seal from the heat, but this will add to the integrity of the seal as the cover contracts around it as it cools. Good Luck! Happy Motoring! Jim'85TE

5150neo

Original Poster:

154 posts

293 months

Wednesday 7th May 2003
quotequote all
It sounds like a plan to me. But my only real concern is getting the 2 MM offset square and at exactly 2 MM. The manual states that it can be +0.5 MM, wow, that gives me a lot of room to play with. I'm more a custom to having a - sign along with that + sign. Anyway, I think I'll pull out the dial calipar and find some scrap aluminum at 2 MM thick to place under the seal before taping it into the housing. This is the first time I've dealt with a rear main seal that is offset. All that I have done in the past were flush with the housing. Fun Fun.

John