Steering problem
Discussion
Anyone any ideas on the following please. 1998 4.0L Serpentine with PAS.
When turning the steering wheel it feels stiff at various points of the turning circle. Most noticable at high speed when it feels dangerous going in its own direction.
With the steering column disconnected the steering wheel turns nice and free. The two u/j's are both well lubricted and when off the splined rod seem to be mechanically free to turn as they should. The splined rod appears to be straight.
Is the problem with the rack or the pump and is it possible to determine which?
When turning the steering wheel it feels stiff at various points of the turning circle. Most noticable at high speed when it feels dangerous going in its own direction.
With the steering column disconnected the steering wheel turns nice and free. The two u/j's are both well lubricted and when off the splined rod seem to be mechanically free to turn as they should. The splined rod appears to be straight.
Is the problem with the rack or the pump and is it possible to determine which?
Sounds like the UJs to me. No amount of oiling will get them 'right' once they are faulty.
Clever Trevor is your friend....
www.clever-trevor.net/tvr-part-category/22-steering.html
Clever Trevor is your friend....
www.clever-trevor.net/tvr-part-category/22-steering.html
Before you replace them try the following. I only suggest this because when I changed mine, I put 2 new ones on (they were definately knackered though) and it felt the bloody same! 
So, loosen them off a little, turn the steering through its travel several times to let the shafts and UJs settle into position then tighten them up again. Mine wasn't right until I did this with the new ones fitted. Then it was right - no more notchiness.
For the record though, mine felt reasonably ok when I took them off and cleaned them, but they weren't.
So, loosen them off a little, turn the steering through its travel several times to let the shafts and UJs settle into position then tighten them up again. Mine wasn't right until I did this with the new ones fitted. Then it was right - no more notchiness.
For the record though, mine felt reasonably ok when I took them off and cleaned them, but they weren't.
Sorry for semi-hijacking a thread.
What is normal steering response for a PAS Chim ? Mine is very firm in the normal driving position (like a non PAS car), basically from 0 to 30 degrees either way, then it becomes very stiff for about 10 degrees then loosens off like the feel I'd expect from PAS. The normal steering wheel position feels very positive and gives a great road feedback (drove the wife's MX5 today and the steering wheel felt like a ships !!!!) but I just wondered if others get the same feedback from this.
The only slight steering problem is when I'm on full lock, I get a slight grating noise as though the wheels are hitting the arches but there is no telltale marks............
Jason
Hi gang,
I obtained some new U/J's and before I fitted them I drove to the local garage for some petrol. On the way there I felt the steering stiffen up, but also the top of the steering wheel was pointing slightly to the left whilst driving in a straight line. By the time I got back home the steering wheel was back to normal.
Everything was marked up (as recommended in a previous thread) and both U/J's changed.
Now when driving in a straight line the top of the steering wheel is pointing almost 90 degress left, any ideas what's going on?
thanks,
G.
I obtained some new U/J's and before I fitted them I drove to the local garage for some petrol. On the way there I felt the steering stiffen up, but also the top of the steering wheel was pointing slightly to the left whilst driving in a straight line. By the time I got back home the steering wheel was back to normal.
Everything was marked up (as recommended in a previous thread) and both U/J's changed.
Now when driving in a straight line the top of the steering wheel is pointing almost 90 degress left, any ideas what's going on?
thanks,
G.
OTOH, thats only about 2 splines top & bottom - precise marking up is not easy IMHO. I would always make reference marks on the bits that dont come off as a check - too late now I suspect. Doesnt matter where the UJs & inter shaft go (for clearances its wise to put them in similar positions) - its the relation between rack & steering column that needs to be relatively re-assembled.
Dave
Dave
threespins said:
Hi gang,
I obtained some new U/J's and before I fitted them I drove to the local garage for some petrol. On the way there I felt the steering stiffen up, but also the top of the steering wheel was pointing slightly to the left whilst driving in a straight line. By the time I got back home the steering wheel was back to normal.
Everything was marked up (as recommended in a previous thread) and both U/J's changed.
Now when driving in a straight line the top of the steering wheel is pointing almost 90 degress left, any ideas what's going on?
thanks,
G.
I obtained some new U/J's and before I fitted them I drove to the local garage for some petrol. On the way there I felt the steering stiffen up, but also the top of the steering wheel was pointing slightly to the left whilst driving in a straight line. By the time I got back home the steering wheel was back to normal.
Everything was marked up (as recommended in a previous thread) and both U/J's changed.
Now when driving in a straight line the top of the steering wheel is pointing almost 90 degress left, any ideas what's going on?
thanks,
G.
How hard were they to change? and did it solve the problem? (i've got the exact same issue)
They are easy enough to change, but the bottom one is harder to mark. Did not take it all apart today, but took the steering wheel off and re-aligned it there. A tip for getting the steering wheel off, whilst pulling get a mate to tap the midddle of the column with a hammer and punch and it will free off easy.
I need to drive a good distance yet to confirm things, but it does seemed to heve cured the problem.
The hardest part is getting the rubber gaitors over the U/J's, but with the help of a cycle tyre lever it can be done. The botton gaitor has to have an inch or so cut off where it meets the rack.
I need to drive a good distance yet to confirm things, but it does seemed to heve cured the problem.
The hardest part is getting the rubber gaitors over the U/J's, but with the help of a cycle tyre lever it can be done. The botton gaitor has to have an inch or so cut off where it meets the rack.
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