u j failed

[s.hogan3]

was going to go to tvr power roleing road open day today but after being told that stephen guest wasnot wonted there today even though he aranged the event i gave the event the miss. cleaned the car today instead so i can use it on sunday. just gone to the shops and getting a clonking from the o/s/r. jacked the rear and found the outer u/j at fault can anyone tell me wot thay are of and do i nead any speacal tools
im now so glade that i did not put the car on the roleing road now

[rev-erend]

Someone recently did one - just do a search..

[ed_crouch]

Righty ho.

What model is it? Mine is a 390SE, and the part number for the UJ is HS179. YOURS MAY BE DIFFERENT DEPENDING ON WHETHER IT HAD THE BEEFY SHAFTS OR NOT.

Sorry to shout, but there are defo 2 types kicking about...

To be honest, its along job, and whilst I get perverse pleasure from taking on and succeeding in doing hard repairs, its not for everyone. Budget 10 hours to get it all apart and fettled.

Also, I can recommend doing all 4 whilst you're at it. Ive seen footage on one failing catastrophically in a straight line shotout at Zolder, and its EXPENSIVE if they totally let go. Think holed fuel tanks, new halfshafts (if ya can get em: might have to have some made by Bailey Morris et al). Its not pretty.

The good news is that the UJs are £16 each from your local motor factor: not exactly Liberia's national deficit.

Do buy "GKN Hardy Spicer" ones though, as they are a lot better than the cheapo ones (and only a few quid more expensive each), which may not have a grease nipple.

You'll need a good flat screwdriver, a mallet, possibly a pin punch, and a socket of the approximate outer diameter to thump the old joints out of the yokes.

DONT hit the yokes in the immediate area of the bores, as it'll mushrom them over, and then the UJ caps wont blo*dy come out. I was that man, and had to lightly trim the bore edge with a die grinder before the damn things would knock out.

E-mail me if you want more info, I have a few pictures of the job I did on mine, and I'd be more than happy to assist, as would most people on here.

Probably worth sorting out the rear brakes whilst you're there (yes, youre gonna have to take the drive shaft(s) off;-)).

Please do ask if you need help...

Ed.

[blueone]

its better to press to joints out. A large vice and two sockets will do.

[leorest]

As you've upped the engine spec "slightly" I would be tempted to upgrade the propshafts while you've got to pull it all apart. Ted's search feature doesn't seem to be working at the moment so try later for lots of info. Unbelievable value for money from the people who made the originals for TVR (BTW they respond well to cash )

Proptech
Martin Adams
Tel:[phone]
Fax:[phone]
Address:81,Hartlebury Trading Estate
Hartlebury
Worcs.
DY10 4JB

Smiles edit

Edited by leorest on Sunday 29th April 10:34

[taz turbo]

As ed_crouch rightly said there are two different ones used, the earlier ones (smaller) and the later ones (larger), I suspect as your car is a 400 it will be using the larger ones. I can tell you that the smaller ones (nominally 82mm across the bearing trunnion caps) certianly used on 280's / 350's, and leave you with still more options, either a version with a grease nipple or without, don't even consider joints that cant be greased in situ. I fitted new joints on my wedge in 1994, grease them frequently and there still fine today. To answer your question the smaller ones were of a Jag. QH part No. QL16204 (from memory) but a better option would be a genuine hardy spicer HS163, as it is greasable and it also has longer needle rollers but all in the same package size.

Regards,

Chris.

[jmorgan]

I did go to the factors with a part number I was assured was correct. Bought 4 and still have them as they were too small, so I took the old ones to the factors complete with caps to make doubly sure when I changed them.

[ed_crouch]

I tried to press them out and broke a 6 inch bench vice.

If they're nice and clean, and havent been ther 20 years, you will probably be able to do this, but mine were WAAAAAAY too tight for that. a 10 ton press might have been OK.

Blueone is right though, if you do have a press thats man enough for the job, its better, but not essential.

Ed.

[ed_crouch]

Id steer clear of other makes, but thats just me. Hardy Spicer got a good reputation for a good reason: theyre good!

20 quid each is a bit stiff too.

Ed.

[s.hogan3]

just phoned up proptec and been quoted a good price from them if i get the propshaft to them so it looks like im takeing them off today and takeing it down to the on tuesday thay are only 30 mins away from me
so thankyou for all your help and ill keep you posted on the outcome of things

[leorest]

Are you just having new uj's put in or are you going for the upgrade? They did mention some (more expensive) UJ's which he said were even better because of the seal but I went for the normal ones because they provided the grease nipple, that and being cheaper
Glad the info was useful to you.

[s.hogan3]

im going for the better ones that thay fit to raceing jags but thay donot have the grease nipple in them but he says because thay are triple sealed u dont nead to grease them
im going to get the o/s done this month then the n/s next month when the bank account gets a bit more money in it

[adam quantrill]

s.hogan3 said:

because thay are triple sealed u dont nead to grease them

Hmmm - I don't think they will last nearly as long. Deffo go for the grease nipple ones.

Part of the problem is water ingress - as the grease dries out, which it will do, water will get in there, seal or no seal. You need to push in fresh grease periodically to flush it out, or else the roller pins all rust up.

[tvrleigh]

Also if you psuh the car hard, on the breaks it can get very hot under there and boil the grease out of the UJ's

[toltec]

tvrleigh said:

Also if you psuh the car hard, on the breaks it can get very hot under there and boil the grease out of the UJ's

Which then dribbles down the brake disk, smokes and attracts comments from the marshals...

[taz turbo]

NOT GREASABLE


I would not recommend fitting non greasable joints, the inner joints WILL get fried by the brakes, I find the inner joints take about four times as much grease as the outer joints.


Don't do it!!!

Regards,

Chris.

[adam quantrill]

Another top tip - after removing the circlips, go around the inside of each bearing cup hole to clean out as much muck and rust as possible, before attempting to press them out. They will come out much easier.

[leorest]

I'd be inclined to find out the manufacturers specifications for the UJs and see if the application is compatible (or not) before condemning it out of hand. Also worth while seeing what Proptech think about the proximity to the disks.

[honourablepickle]

proptech did my shafts for about £200 - nice job and nice people
hp

[jmorgan]

toltec said:

tvrleigh said:

Also if you psuh the car hard, on the breaks it can get very hot under there and boil the grease out of the UJ's

Which then dribbles down the brake disk, smokes and attracts comments from the marshals...

Or you panic and think the smoke is sommit else and whip the wheel off to find what is the cause and then others wander by to see what you are doing to get the old "they all do that"......