Upgrades... exhaust, brakes etc
Discussion
Guys,
With the likely increase in the price of the new M15/16/17, I think I might keep my 3R longer after all. I agree with Greg and there really is nothing else I would like to drive for the money! This then gives me the opportunity to tweak her a little....
So, what should I start with first? The car is suffering from a bit of brake judder at the moment, so discs will be top of my list, what are the options?
Also, what are the options on the exhaust front? I have been following the various threads and there seem to be lots of mixed opinons on the way to go...
Any advice will be appreciated.
Cheers,
Elliott
With the likely increase in the price of the new M15/16/17, I think I might keep my 3R longer after all. I agree with Greg and there really is nothing else I would like to drive for the money! This then gives me the opportunity to tweak her a little....
So, what should I start with first? The car is suffering from a bit of brake judder at the moment, so discs will be top of my list, what are the options?
Also, what are the options on the exhaust front? I have been following the various threads and there seem to be lots of mixed opinons on the way to go...
Any advice will be appreciated.
Cheers,
Elliott
Edited by Elliott_3R on Wednesday 2nd May 13:34
paulcundy said:
AR said:
Does anyone makes equal lenght headers for the Nobles? I had Mugen ones on the NSX-R and they not only had heathshields, but liberated a lot of power as well as improved throtle response.
Cheers,
AR
Cheers,
AR
Not necesssary or nearly as important in force fed cars?
Regards
Paul C
Correct!
F.C.
Elliott_3R said:
Guys,
With the likely increase in the price of the new M15/16/17, I think I might keep my 3R longer after all. I agree with Greg and there really is nothing else I would like to drive for the money! This then gives me the opportunity to tweak her a little....
So, what should I start with first? The car is suffering from a bit of brake judder at the moment, so discs will be top of my list, what are the options?
Also, what are the options on the exhaust front? I have been following the various threads and there seem to be lots of mixed opinons on the way to go...
Any advice will be appreciated.
Cheers,
Elliott
With the likely increase in the price of the new M15/16/17, I think I might keep my 3R longer after all. I agree with Greg and there really is nothing else I would like to drive for the money! This then gives me the opportunity to tweak her a little....
So, what should I start with first? The car is suffering from a bit of brake judder at the moment, so discs will be top of my list, what are the options?
Also, what are the options on the exhaust front? I have been following the various threads and there seem to be lots of mixed opinons on the way to go...
Any advice will be appreciated.
Cheers,
Elliott
Edited by Elliott_3R on Wednesday 2nd May 13:34
I have had my brakes upgraded (had brake judder) to AP grooved discs and Padgid Road and Track pads.
Most definately an improvement in performance... downside is lowspeed brake squeal.
Plans did the work, 1st class job.
Also had my suspension uprights / hub-carriers modded for negative camber. Roush did this and I had plans set the geometry.
This was a revelation in handling / steering, I highly recommend this mod... downside a little sensitive to white lines (tramline effect) but I still wouldn't have it any other way.
both companies did a 1st class job.
I fully intend to up-grade the suspension at a later date and to this effect I have ordered some lighter Dymag wheels.
I had a Roush exhaust fitted.
I chose this as a matter of availability over price Roush had one to fit immediately Hayward and Scott needed the car for four days and couldn't do the job for two weeks.
I had the fuel pump upgraded (I supplied my own pump) and the engine was re-mapped. the result was my engine was much more free revving than before and torque didn't drop off so suddenly.
Roush did the work, again faultless.
The exhaust was expensive but it was an all-in price in a timescale to suit ME.
I'm sure the (cheaper) Hayward and Scott alternative will work just as well but I would still have the engine map checked for reasons of safety.
All this is of course are my findings and how you car handles for you is a matter of personal choice.
Personally I would concentrate on brakes and handling before upping the power.
F.C.
adrian w said:
Except that if they were equal length and stress relieved and made out of the right material, therefore expanding and contracting at the same rate they wouldn’t crack!
Not possible. The only way to have them expand and contract identicaly would be to have four straight stubs. They've got to curve somehow to get to join up, different curves = differential expansion.
They crack not because of this, all manifolds are subject to this, but because they are too weak to take the strain we know they will be subject to.
Regards
Paul C
paulcundy said:
adrian w said:
Except that if they were equal length and stress relieved and made out of the right material, therefore expanding and contracting at the same rate they wouldn’t crack!
Not possible. The only way to have them expand and contract identicaly would be to have four straight stubs. They've got to curve somehow to get to join up, different curves = differential expansion.
They crack not because of this, all manifolds are subject to this, but because they are too weak to take the strain we know they will be subject to.
Regards
Paul C
Don’t want to be picky Paul.............but.........two pieces of metal one a metre long and one half a metre with the same coefficient of expansion, the longer one will expand more. when designing proper manifolds they take this into account, and other than to get the length of the manifold into the available space it’s the reason race manifolds look like a bunch of bananas. And yes unfortunately Noble chose to hang the turbo’s off of them.
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