New clutch and hydraulics & its still creeping - any ideas?
Discussion
Pretty much as above re. my S2 2.9. Last year the clutch would not release at all so the hydraulic were replaced - new master cylinder and slave - and everything has been fine.
I've driven about 3,000 miles since but recently I was having problems selecting reverse and it became evidnet that with the brakes off but the clutch fully in, the car moves forward - or backwards depending on what gear it is in- slightly ('creeps') and keeps going - i.e it seems like the clutch is not disengaging.
The hydraulics were checked again and there is enough throw on the arm/lever so a new clutch was advised which has been fitted. However, although the new clutch - a Ford item and identical to that which came off the car- has a better feel the problem remains.
I, and the mechanics at the garage - very experienced and very trustworthy- are baffled. Can anyone throw any light on this please.
The car has a type 9 (not MT75 box)
Cheers
Jonnylayze
I've driven about 3,000 miles since but recently I was having problems selecting reverse and it became evidnet that with the brakes off but the clutch fully in, the car moves forward - or backwards depending on what gear it is in- slightly ('creeps') and keeps going - i.e it seems like the clutch is not disengaging.
The hydraulics were checked again and there is enough throw on the arm/lever so a new clutch was advised which has been fitted. However, although the new clutch - a Ford item and identical to that which came off the car- has a better feel the problem remains.
I, and the mechanics at the garage - very experienced and very trustworthy- are baffled. Can anyone throw any light on this please.
The car has a type 9 (not MT75 box)
Cheers
Jonnylayze
Mine did this, although I had the clutch replaced it turned out to be the spiggot/clutch release bearing which had disintegrated over the years. It will be well worth getting this checked, but it's a gearbox out job!
It should look something like this:
It should look something like this:
Edited by foxy600 on Friday 4th May 19:17
It sounds like you've eliminated the obvious, and as it was working ok with the new components it would appear they are all matched.
The fact your mechanics are struggling would suggest an unusual problem so the only thing I can think of is maybe too much crankshaft endfloat, to check this get a bar or similar and put pressure on the crankshaft pulley so that you are effectively pushing the crank towards the rear of the car,then get someone to depress the clutch whilst you look at the crankshaft, if the thrust washers are badly worn the crank will move forwards as the clutch is pressed. To exaggerate the movement you could rest a screwdriver loosely behind the crank pulley once its pushed back then watch the other end of the screwdriver for movement.Its pretty unlikely it will be this but somethings causing it and its not the obvious.
The fact your mechanics are struggling would suggest an unusual problem so the only thing I can think of is maybe too much crankshaft endfloat, to check this get a bar or similar and put pressure on the crankshaft pulley so that you are effectively pushing the crank towards the rear of the car,then get someone to depress the clutch whilst you look at the crankshaft, if the thrust washers are badly worn the crank will move forwards as the clutch is pressed. To exaggerate the movement you could rest a screwdriver loosely behind the crank pulley once its pushed back then watch the other end of the screwdriver for movement.Its pretty unlikely it will be this but somethings causing it and its not the obvious.
As Foxy says it could be the spigot bearing but on a Westfield with a type 9 box I had similar dragging whith the clutch pedal fully depressed. However if it wasn't depressed fully it didn't drag. Fitting a clutch pedal stop cured it. I'd be surprised if the hydraulic clutch did that but thought I'd mention it just in case.
In my experience...(30 years of working only on TVR's) it is not possible to fit a Ford or even an after market clutch to a TVR S Series without first machining the flywheel with a clearance for the centre rivets on the clutch plate. The end result is as you discribe after a couple of thousand miles the plate wears and then the rivets touch the flywheel and you loose drive at the high torque points first this then gets worse over time. Adrian@
adrian@ said:
In my experience...(30 years of working only on TVR's) it is not possible to fit a Ford or even an after market clutch to a TVR S Series without first machining the flywheel with a clearance for the centre rivets on the clutch plate. The end result is as you discribe after a couple of thousand miles the plate wears and then the rivets touch the flywheel and you loose drive at the high torque points first this then gets worse over time. Adrian@
Hello Adrian, I haven't lost drive - that's the problem. the new clutch is on zero miles although the new hydraulics have been on the car for a couple of thousand. The problem is that with the new clutch the symptoms are unchanged from how the car was before - the car is creeping with it in gear and the clutch fully depressed and biting with the pedal only half an inch off the floor.
However, if I understand correctly - and I'm not an expert by any means - you think that machinin the flywheel should give more clearance from the clutch and may solve this?
Edited by jonnylayze on Saturday 5th May 09:14
Hi Sorry I was half asleep ... what I have found is that the centre rivets on the plate clash with the internal edge of the flywheel face, so you have to machine a relief of material off at this point, so that the plate gets 'clutched'....back to your probelm, as Rockey says, I assume that the adjustable pushrod that fits into the back of the slave cylinder has been adjusted fully.
Adrian@
Adrian@
Edited by adrian@ on Saturday 5th May 09:39
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