Cerb Drive Shaft Boots and Maintenance
Discussion
I welcome your help and expertise on a three maintenance issues. I am what you might call averagely mechanically minded so bear that in mind in your response (in other words be kind!).
Oil change
- What oil is recommended (done 10000 miles on rebuilt engine)?
- To change the oil I know I need to drain from the main sump and the engine plug near the oil inlets to engine but
- Is there anything I need to be aware?
- Will I require a sump plug washer for both plugs (sump /engine)?
- I will change the oil filter - like for like unless there is a normal more easily available make - ideas?
Diff Oil Change
- What Oil recommended?
- How much to put in or is it simply up to the top?
- Top tips for filling bearing in mind it will be garage floor jacked up access?
Drive Shaft Boots
- Do I need any special tools outwith normal spanners and wrenches? i.e bearing separators etc?
- Apart from the new boots, clips and grease are there any other consumables I will need before strating job?
- A sequence of jobs would be v useful to avoid unecessary work?
- Any top tips to avoid major frustration.
Apologies for coming across like a right novice but your advice would be v welcome.
Oil change
- What oil is recommended (done 10000 miles on rebuilt engine)?
- To change the oil I know I need to drain from the main sump and the engine plug near the oil inlets to engine but
- Is there anything I need to be aware?
- Will I require a sump plug washer for both plugs (sump /engine)?
- I will change the oil filter - like for like unless there is a normal more easily available make - ideas?
Diff Oil Change
- What Oil recommended?
- How much to put in or is it simply up to the top?
- Top tips for filling bearing in mind it will be garage floor jacked up access?
Drive Shaft Boots
- Do I need any special tools outwith normal spanners and wrenches? i.e bearing separators etc?
- Apart from the new boots, clips and grease are there any other consumables I will need before strating job?
- A sequence of jobs would be v useful to avoid unecessary work?
- Any top tips to avoid major frustration.
Apologies for coming across like a right novice but your advice would be v welcome.
When you change your oil, for the grade look in the opie oils thread, change it as normal but pre fill the oil filter to the brim when refitting, you may spill a bit when putting it on but the engine could have a struggle getting initial oil pressure if you don't. It takes forever anyway
I dont know about the diff oil, for the grade see opie again, but I would have thought it was a filler/level plug job.
The cv boots are as any other, drive shaft off and a circlip to take the cv joint off the shaft, then swap the boot.
Good luck getting covered in oil and old cv greese.
I dont know about the diff oil, for the grade see opie again, but I would have thought it was a filler/level plug job.
The cv boots are as any other, drive shaft off and a circlip to take the cv joint off the shaft, then swap the boot.
Good luck getting covered in oil and old cv greese.
Thanks for the tip on the oil - I thought it might be something like that.
Ref the boots - as I have not actually had a drive shaft off before - do I have to remove everything from the disc, disc brakes backwards or can I get access to the drive shaft by simply undoing the allen key bolts around each end of the drive shaft. A noddy's guide is probably what I need. Once I have done one I should be fine.
Ref the boots - as I have not actually had a drive shaft off before - do I have to remove everything from the disc, disc brakes backwards or can I get access to the drive shaft by simply undoing the allen key bolts around each end of the drive shaft. A noddy's guide is probably what I need. Once I have done one I should be fine.
Just undo the allen key bolts at each end, then the shaft comes off. the circlips hold the joints to the ends of the shaft. So cut off the big and little tie wraps or clips on the boots, take the outer circlips off (without them flying away). The joint just slides off the splined shaft.
Fit the new boot, clean and regrease the joint, put it back on the shaft, replace the circlip (make sure it goes into the groove), reclip the boot, both sides and refit the shaft, make sure all the bolts are good and tight.
Thats it, and now your covered in old, black cv grease. Easy!!!!
Fit the new boot, clean and regrease the joint, put it back on the shaft, replace the circlip (make sure it goes into the groove), reclip the boot, both sides and refit the shaft, make sure all the bolts are good and tight.
Thats it, and now your covered in old, black cv grease. Easy!!!!
Do any of you remember the split-type drive boots from about 15 years ago that came with a row of bolt-holes along one side so that you could fit it without removing the drive?
I might have a picture of one somewhere that I can scan and post later.
Can they still be got?
It'd make that job a whole lot easier if they can.
I might have a picture of one somewhere that I can scan and post later.
Can they still be got?
It'd make that job a whole lot easier if they can.
Ireland said:
Do any of you remember the split-type drive boots from about 15 years ago that came with a row of bolt-holes along one side so that you could fit it without removing the drive?
I might have a picture of one somewhere that I can scan and post later.
Can they still be got?
It'd make that job a whole lot easier if they can.
I might have a picture of one somewhere that I can scan and post later.
Can they still be got?
It'd make that job a whole lot easier if they can.
I actually found one still on an old Beetle I have in the garage.
The boot is in bits but I'll take a picture of it to show you how they worked.
jbvipercerb - Many thanks for the info - so there is absolutely no need to start removing the the disc, calipers etc just undo the allen key bolts as described - fantastic. You have no idea how hard it has been to try and find a 41mm / 1 and 6/10 ths socket for the wheel bearing nut.
tbh the split ones never used to be much good i used them a few times repairing friends cars quite a few years ago now but they didnt last that long dont know if they have improved a lot now though, i tend to use genuine ones nowadays because they seem to last longer but maybe some guys have had good results with them
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