Top 5 oil choices for std 4.3 road use only Griff -22k miles
Discussion
I had Valvoline 10w60 at the last but one service. Mobil 1 0w40 before that. The Mobil is just too thin and I think I remember the oil pressure light flickering once or twice. With the 10w60 the oil pressure guage is slightly higher and steadier.
I couldn't find any Valvoline this time, so I've got Millers fully synthetic 10w60 and so far it seems to be just as good as the Valvoline.
I couldn't find any Valvoline this time, so I've got Millers fully synthetic 10w60 and so far it seems to be just as good as the Valvoline.
morris oil..15-40.these enginesw are a 50 or more year old design,realy no need for synthetic oil..mobil 1 in my oppinion way to thin and burns off..tvr only recomended it as they where involved in propoganda of tvr advertisiny as was more recently opie oils.used to race motorbikes was never sold on expensive brand named oils..have and alwys will use morris lubricants..plus they are a family run buisness and they only ever sell you best product for your purpose ..
Using mineral oil in TVRs will require the oil changing frequently as the heat experienced with TVRs will quickly degrade it into sludge.
The main advanatage of synthetics are that they tolerate heat far better and don't need changing before the service intervals which is why they are a better choice for TVRs.
I used to use Kendall 20W50 mineral in the 520 before it was supercharged but it would quickly degrade. One track day or 2-3 sprints and that was it. With the supercharger, the oil runs at a higher temp and the stuff was really struggling. Now switched to a fully synthetic 15W50. Still needs regular changing but the engine is at the extreme level of performance.
After many years of experiencing the Oil Police (several pages on this in the bible BTW), the best advice I can give is:
If you use mineral, change it every 2-3000 miles. Don't wait for the service intervals.
If you use synthetic, use a 15W40 or similar oil. 0W40 is ok but a little thin.
Most importantly check oil levels frequently and don't rev the engine hard when cold.
The main advanatage of synthetics are that they tolerate heat far better and don't need changing before the service intervals which is why they are a better choice for TVRs.
I used to use Kendall 20W50 mineral in the 520 before it was supercharged but it would quickly degrade. One track day or 2-3 sprints and that was it. With the supercharger, the oil runs at a higher temp and the stuff was really struggling. Now switched to a fully synthetic 15W50. Still needs regular changing but the engine is at the extreme level of performance.
After many years of experiencing the Oil Police (several pages on this in the bible BTW), the best advice I can give is:
If you use mineral, change it every 2-3000 miles. Don't wait for the service intervals.
If you use synthetic, use a 15W40 or similar oil. 0W40 is ok but a little thin.
Most importantly check oil levels frequently and don't rev the engine hard when cold.
Steve is dead right, the only thing I would add is that I dont trust the blurb on the box...
Mobil1 15/50 is like treacle compared to the milk of Carlube 15/50 I found... The inferior oils retain hardly any pressure when hot, which I took to also be an indicator of them having the long chains broken down (degrading). This is why many will find an oil that they like and stick to it.
Dave
Mobil1 15/50 is like treacle compared to the milk of Carlube 15/50 I found... The inferior oils retain hardly any pressure when hot, which I took to also be an indicator of them having the long chains broken down (degrading). This is why many will find an oil that they like and stick to it.
Dave
no comments on the RS? - I have to say it has given me noticably higher oil pressure to the regular Mobil 1 - also smells a bit like the old R as a bonus - still no support? - I have left the RS in for 2 yrs (less than 1000 mls admittedly) and pressure is c. 50 at high revs and 30 around idle when v hot
Edited by lone granger on Monday 7th May 12:44
When I took my Tuscan into TVR Power for its 6K service, they used 10/40 semi synthetic. I recently had a 12K service done on my Griff at a well respected indie, and they also used 10/40 semi synthetic.
If the likes of TVR Power are using semi synthetic, is using fully synthetic incurring extra expense unnecessarily?
If the likes of TVR Power are using semi synthetic, is using fully synthetic incurring extra expense unnecessarily?
I would view 10/40 semi as good halfway house oil,more oil (tech wise not viscosity)than the Rover will ever need,but better suited to your tuscan generally semi syn works great in any multi valve modern engine,the rover tends to like an oil with a bit more body in saying that i use Quantum(porsche/vw approved dealer oil)5/40 fully syn(i buy in bulk) and have had no problems with consumption or oil pressure when hot,as the other guy says if your happy with an oil most tend to stick to it, i will be going Motul/silkolene next oil&filter though because i have found a bulk source and am happier with the grade
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff