New oil gone dirty in 200 miles
Discussion
Just done me oil, put Mobil1 15W50 in it.
After 200 miles, its started to go dirty already, dammit.
When I drained it, the car had been running until about 15 minutes before i drained it out.
Could anyone tell me whether the coil cooler remains full when the sump is drained?
I dont mind if the dirty oil in the cooler is mixing with the clean oil: i'll just change the oil regularly and it'll clean up. Im more concerned if Ive got combustion products getting into the oil. i.e. dodgy head gaskets.
Any ideas about the oil cooler?
Ed.
After 200 miles, its started to go dirty already, dammit.
When I drained it, the car had been running until about 15 minutes before i drained it out.
Could anyone tell me whether the coil cooler remains full when the sump is drained?
I dont mind if the dirty oil in the cooler is mixing with the clean oil: i'll just change the oil regularly and it'll clean up. Im more concerned if Ive got combustion products getting into the oil. i.e. dodgy head gaskets.
Any ideas about the oil cooler?
Ed.
Yes, it had Q8 in it when I bought it (well, thats what was in a half empty bottle in the boot). Mmmm, think I prefer the thought of Mobil1 corsing through its galleries.
Trouble with the Mobil1 is that its pretty expensive to be changing every 200 miles for the first few changes! Nevertheless cheaper that Castrol Edge Sport. And more available.
It tempting to give the oil cooler a flush through and replace the dodgy, jubille-clipped on hoses with some proper swage-lok Goodridge pipes.
Ed.
Trouble with the Mobil1 is that its pretty expensive to be changing every 200 miles for the first few changes! Nevertheless cheaper that Castrol Edge Sport. And more available.
It tempting to give the oil cooler a flush through and replace the dodgy, jubille-clipped on hoses with some proper swage-lok Goodridge pipes.
Ed.
Edited by ed_crouch on Sunday 6th May 14:18
Edited by ed_crouch on Sunday 6th May 14:19
Ed,
I'd would think the oil cooler stays full when you change the oil..
If you want pristine clean oil then I would firstly recommend a cr test to make sure your engine is in good shape first then change the oil every 1K with a good quality but cheap 20/50 like valvoline.
Then every 3K using the Valvoline semi synth racing oil - I think it 15/50 ..
I now would not put Mobil 1 in any TVR as its expensive and too thin..
I'd would think the oil cooler stays full when you change the oil..
If you want pristine clean oil then I would firstly recommend a cr test to make sure your engine is in good shape first then change the oil every 1K with a good quality but cheap 20/50 like valvoline.
Then every 3K using the Valvoline semi synth racing oil - I think it 15/50 ..
I now would not put Mobil 1 in any TVR as its expensive and too thin..
I dont think 5/50 is to thin but Moble1 has very poor splash properties and as we all know the RV8 requires oil throughen up by the crank to stop the top of the lobes been woren off, moble1 is good for high reving engines so not very good for a rover v8 as it will spend very little of its time at the top end, the engine in my seac started life from the factory on moble1 and eat a cam in 50000 miles, its a good oil for a lawnmower.
The factory use to be sponsered by moble1 for the tvr racing this is why many cars use to run this oil.
Cambelt
The factory use to be sponsered by moble1 for the tvr racing this is why many cars use to run this oil.
Cambelt
i allways change the oil for a semi sinth oil and change the oil on a more reg interval full sinth was made to exstend the service oil change for lease companys
when the oil gets black the black look is because there are very small particals of carben in the oil
allso when the rover v8 engine was made there was no thing as even a semi sinth oil
i would save your money and buy a semi sinth oil instead
when the oil gets black the black look is because there are very small particals of carben in the oil
allso when the rover v8 engine was made there was no thing as even a semi sinth oil
i would save your money and buy a semi sinth oil instead
Rev,
by CR, i resume you mean compression test?
If so, I did do one about 1500 miles ago, and the compressions (throttle closed) were about 190 - 195PSI all round.
If you mean one of those "soot-in-the-oil" tests, havent done it yet cos the test kit was a bit pricey!
Thanks for the info, keep it coming!
Ed.
by CR, i resume you mean compression test?
If so, I did do one about 1500 miles ago, and the compressions (throttle closed) were about 190 - 195PSI all round.
If you mean one of those "soot-in-the-oil" tests, havent done it yet cos the test kit was a bit pricey!
Thanks for the info, keep it coming!
Ed.
ed_crouch said:
Rev,
by CR, i resume you mean compression test?
If so, I did do one about 1500 miles ago, and the compressions (throttle closed) were about 190 - 195PSI all round.
If you mean one of those "soot-in-the-oil" tests, havent done it yet cos the test kit was a bit pricey!
Thanks for the info, keep it coming!
Ed.
by CR, i resume you mean compression test?
If so, I did do one about 1500 miles ago, and the compressions (throttle closed) were about 190 - 195PSI all round.
If you mean one of those "soot-in-the-oil" tests, havent done it yet cos the test kit was a bit pricey!
Thanks for the info, keep it coming!
Ed.
Just do a few 1K changes and perhaps an oil flush and then you will have clean oil.
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