Discussion
Does anyone know if the shims for the tappets fit other engines other than an AJP. Also does the timing chain need to be changed at the same time as doing the tappets, are they prone to breakage?
I'm going to take the plunge and reshim the tappets myself, but I don't want to be stuck with either no spare shims or need a chain and have to leave it off the road just when summer has started!
Obviosly I should have done it over winter
Any help/opinions would be gladly received.
I'm going to take the plunge and reshim the tappets myself, but I don't want to be stuck with either no spare shims or need a chain and have to leave it off the road just when summer has started!
Obviosly I should have done it over winter Any help/opinions would be gladly received.
i would ,nt think you need to replace the chain you are probably worried about some recent threads but those chains must have had somthing got wedged in them loose bolt or the like for them to have snapped i have never known a chain just snap unless some fellow phers know different, as for the shims not sure but one of the guys will know good luck with it anyway 
I know you need a lot of shims to make sure you have the correct sizes at hand when you get stuck into it.
It's a job that's pending on ine at the moment but Torqueflyte in Belfast are doing a check to see if they actually need to be done as my engine was rebuilt in the factory before I got the car and may be out of synch with the 12k, 24k, 36k etc schedule for tappet adjustment.
Using the engine and chassis numbers they reckon they may be able to track exactly what was done and when it was done.
Unfortunately I have to go this route as the b@stard previous owner has kept the service history documents and won't even send me copies.
I've asked but no joy .....
It's a job that's pending on ine at the moment but Torqueflyte in Belfast are doing a check to see if they actually need to be done as my engine was rebuilt in the factory before I got the car and may be out of synch with the 12k, 24k, 36k etc schedule for tappet adjustment.
Using the engine and chassis numbers they reckon they may be able to track exactly what was done and when it was done.
Unfortunately I have to go this route as the b@stard previous owner has kept the service history documents and won't even send me copies.
I've asked but no joy .....
ancol said:
cannot understand why someone would sell a car and keep the history for a car they no longer own what a f@@ki@ to@@a
I know.
I was meant to be going to the UK next weekend so I'd planned to just turn up on his doorstep for them as he's in Wales and I'd have been very close to him on my way in from the ferry ..... but plans have changed.
Perhaps I'll start a separate "Anyone want to collect my service history" thread.
Ireland said:
ancol said:
cannot understand why someone would sell a car and keep the history for a car they no longer own what a f@@ki@ to@@a
I know.
I was meant to be going to the UK next weekend so I'd planned to just turn up on his doorstep for them as he's in Wales and I'd have been very close to him on my way in from the ferry ..... but plans have changed.
Perhaps I'll start a separate "Anyone want to collect my service history" thread.
I've tackled setting the tappet with no special tools and it took some time but otherwise no probs
I used lock-wire to hold the cam sprocket to the chain and only did one side at a time, just took it steady and took a long time making sure that I really did have TDC where the pulley said it was.....
Matt
I used lock-wire to hold the cam sprocket to the chain and only did one side at a time, just took it steady and took a long time making sure that I really did have TDC where the pulley said it was.....
Matt
I've seen an engine with the chain and sprockets unfastened and hooked on a couple of bolts to stop them dropping down, and some wire wrapped around them to keep the chain in the teeth, so hopefully I won't need any special tools.
On the the subject of TDC are there any marks on the gears, I was just going to mark thier positions across the gear and cam and put them back in the origional position!
Julian64 had a long thread on TDC which lost me half way through, I should be able to get the crank/pistons close to the top, but where in relation to that should the cams be?
On the the subject of TDC are there any marks on the gears, I was just going to mark thier positions across the gear and cam and put them back in the origional position!
Julian64 had a long thread on TDC which lost me half way through, I should be able to get the crank/pistons close to the top, but where in relation to that should the cams be?
I've done it now. I followed the workshop manual implicitly, step by step and a cam is off and I know what shims I need. I'll go to a local engine builders tommorow and see if they have seen any of the "top hat" shims fitted on any other engines, if not TVR Power.
The job was quite straight forward, a bit fiddly setting up the cam, getting the buckets level then the inlet one 1.5mm lower, I used a piece of scrap metal 1.5mm thick bent so it sat on the inlet bucket and a straight edge across to the exhaust one and turned the engine untill they were level.
The "sprocket support tool" was a piece of 24mm bar with a notch cut out of one side so the end went into the gear and the notch sat on the top edge of the timming cover, then a flat piece of metal was drilled and bolted over the top to stop it moving.
Not badto do, but took a while to make tools and look at it, but I still need to put it back together, do the other cam and make it run
Here's some pics, after ages working out how to do it!
Take the 2 cover panels out of the engine bay, remove the fuel rail and cam covers.
Now you can see the cams. Check all the valve clearances and write them down, you'll need them later to work out what shims are needed to make the clearances right. Set the engine up as the workshop manual says, the pic below shows the bent 1.5mm strip and straight edge used to find when cam buckets are level and the inlet bucket is 1.5mm down. Also theres a removed shim and the pliers I neede to get the buckets out of the head (because of oil suction).
When the engine is set up put the cam sprocket holding bar, 25mm diameter (to fit in the sprocket front hole) into the front of the sprocket and I clamped it with a piece of metal and two bolts.
Remove the cam cap nuts evenly and take out the cam
Remove the buckets, I did it one at a time so they stay in there correct locations. Measure the shims with a micrometer to decide which sizes you need.
I've only done one cam at once to save confusion, I hope its as easy to put back together!!
Take the 2 cover panels out of the engine bay, remove the fuel rail and cam covers.
Now you can see the cams. Check all the valve clearances and write them down, you'll need them later to work out what shims are needed to make the clearances right. Set the engine up as the workshop manual says, the pic below shows the bent 1.5mm strip and straight edge used to find when cam buckets are level and the inlet bucket is 1.5mm down. Also theres a removed shim and the pliers I neede to get the buckets out of the head (because of oil suction).
When the engine is set up put the cam sprocket holding bar, 25mm diameter (to fit in the sprocket front hole) into the front of the sprocket and I clamped it with a piece of metal and two bolts.
Remove the cam cap nuts evenly and take out the cam
Remove the buckets, I did it one at a time so they stay in there correct locations. Measure the shims with a micrometer to decide which sizes you need.
I've only done one cam at once to save confusion, I hope its as easy to put back together!!
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