Sharing the Pain

[Chrimsontide]

Been a 96 Chimaera owner for 3 relativly painless years. Piston Heads has been an invaluable source of info so thanks to everyone who contributes here.

After attempting a rear disc replace this weekend i thought i would share some basic facts and problems about my car i found over the years that i could not find easily anywhere else and they fall into the category `easier said than done' . They are targetted at those individuals who think yea that sounds easy i will have go.

First Speedo sensor top of diff mounted. This is impossible in a DIY situation to remove. I have even had the car in the local garage up on a lift and it still can't be got at. They passed in the end.

Rear brake callipers removal. Bible says it will be awkward. Thats an understatement on an older car. Firstly the alum key size is 8mm if you dont know or are going to buy one. The bad news as the bible says is that you can't get it in on the top bolt unless the shaft is about an inch long. As the alum key is steel it won't cut easily or neatly so try to find one at the right length.

The locktight on the bolts make them very hard to budge . I got the bottom one off via a socket tool. Top one is still there. Been a whole day trying , heat applied all the usual things and the heads started rounding out.

Dashboard out. Not as hard as i thought it was going to be. Good advice off here and worth repeating again was the replacement of the nuts with wing nuts. Lifted it twice since with this mod and had it all back together in half an hour.

Hope others can offer some help on the unsolved above and thanks again for the resource.

[mdotrutherford]

A problem shared as the old saying goes Jay !, being a newbie Im afraid I cant comment on your stated scenarios but no doubt someone will be along soon.

Along those lines how about the Mods putting up a FAQ/Sticky for task difficulty which could be compiled/added to in an honest/unbiased light by those that have been there/done that.

Perhaps Alex could do when he has got time to breath on Chimaerapages.
Brgds
Ian

[Ballistic Banana]

Re the Speed transducer. I have heard if you cant get it undone then take the bracket of that it sits in and then you can take it out and put it in a vice and get more leverage on it and even give it a good dousing with a releasing agent. On my Grifith 95 I changed mine by taking rear wheel off and going through there. a bit tight but mine came of without taking the whole bracket off.

BB

[spend]

Which diff is it? Do you mean the sensor over the propshaft or the one on the driveshaft?

The earlier one over the nose of the diff: You can undo the top 2 of 4 nuts/bolts at the front of the diff and the bracket can be removed with the sensor IIRC.

Dave

[Chrimsontide]

Thanks guys, its vertically mounted over the prop shaft.I think the different mounting positions of the speed sensor is why some people dont understand why its easier on some cars than on others. The bracket removal is the way forward though, but whilst possible i think it still falls under one of those DIY jobs that stretch the home tool kit and abilities to the limit.

Its those little phrases like ` remove the the two bolts and clean the unit' that you get in maintenance manuals.

Which translated means meditate for a day to calm your self, giving you the zen insight to have found the essential addendum at the back of the manual not in the chapter. Search for or forge some special tool. Then grow another thumb. Now use your jedi like ability to produce a few tons of torque on a rusted bit of metal inside a 6 inch cavity at arms length away that you cant see into. Remove unit. When the blood has finally returned to the top of your body, after hanging like a bat for an hour, do the easy bit, clean it.

But what else would we be doing eh. Thanks for your replies

[spend]

I was actually asking which version, you had & simply giving you a hint. You need to remove the exhaust, and drop the prop shaft to access that area. Jobs like this are much nicer with the real wheels on ramps - axle stands just get in the way

Jobs worth considering at the same time (since you have access) are:
Propshaft UJs (<£10)
Support Diff and check replace bushes.
Tighten Handbrake pivot - clean & grease linkage
Give the handbrake adjuster a good clean & workout
Check & fettle chassis top rails (you can get head well up inside transmission tunnel)

I would point out that not all the fixings are metric, always check if there is a better imperial fit! Clean out the allen bolts anally, before putting pressure on. If you mess them up like your brakes you can always get a good strong wrench on them to release.

Dave

[Chrimsontide]

Now thats what i call good advice. Thanks Dave. Ever considered writing a repair manual ?

[chrispitman]

The diff has three bushes the bottom two look easy engough to replace as the brackets will come off. The top one is this actualling in a welded chasis mount, if so how do you replace this, or is a complete strip down job.

Also what would happen if I just replaced to lower two with powerflex one but left the top.

[spend]

You have a completely different diff (& chassis BTW).. The procedures vary, and there are even some different rear cases on the GKN diff which affect access.

Personally I would always drop the diff, and take the opportunity to do some chassis fettling...
There are occasional reports of bush removal tools working ~ but the only sure method is to cut the bush out. Hole saw type drills will go thru the rubber quite easily I find (compared to normall drills). If you have air an air saw is handy - but you still have to finish by hand (its very difficult to avoid cutting into the chassis bit..). I would always put poly bush in as a replacement - even if they do wear it will be a doddle to replace .

Its a PITA job with as much access as possible & car as high as possible, as always easier if you take the longer safer route stripping as much as you can to have better access IMHO.

Dave