Radiator split - options - Alloy or Recore ?

[Andy JB]

I would appreciate some views based on your experience of radiators options:-

The pressure in my 500 can be heard escaping after a run and leaks when theres no pressure in the system, therefore, time to consider my options:-

Recore to x3
Exchange
Alloy replacement

Any views on cost and options experiences welcome. Any Midlands based suppliers/indies also very useful

[That Daddy]

If money is no object i would go ali at around £390 but you can get the standard unit for around £90 quid new from various Landrover specialists,i seem to remember that someone on here paid about £60 and before the tongues start wagging it is a standard part(not modified)so he explained when grilled on the matter.

[spend]

Get it rebuilt with an upgraded core IMHO. You can get bung put in for otter switch at same time.

There seem to have been a coup;le of reports of problems with ally rads, are you prepared for the risk. I'm not sure they have proved their longevity. Later rads are even plastic sided IIRC

Dave

[markh]

First trackday outing with new ali rad (Thanks Tim,ACT) and am impressed, temp stays dead on , well worth the cash.

Mark

[spend]

If anyone cant spot the difference between this

and their TVR rad they have a serious retardation problem

Dave

That is a Discovery radiator....

[markh]

spend said:

If anyone cant spot the difference between this

and their TVR rad they have a serious retardation problem

Dave

That is a Discovery radiator....

THe differece is night and day, the plastic sided units are crap, have got through 2 of the stock units in as many years, they twist and leak.

[That Daddy]

Dave, i understand what you are saying about the bottom outlet and side brackets but this guy said he purchased the same rad as fitted to hes chim from a landrover specialist for around £60 from memory an early discovery, but he did make it clear there are alot of variations on the discovery,i am only repeating what i read from the post some time back i honestly couldent say for sure im sure if the guy does a search he will find it,Dave i hope i have not misread your post?

Edited by That Daddy on Monday 7th May 22:01

[nig-gtv]

I have just had mine re-cored (and took the opportunity to get an upgraded 4 core for a few extra ££. Went for a re-core as I wasnt confident of being able to buy the right Land Rover one.. TVR probably just fitted whatever they could get hold of at the time! It wasnt leaking but was beginning to look a bit ropey, the re-core looks like new - all stripped down, repainted etc. Removed it and refitted it no problems (bonnet doesnt need to be removed as is suggested in the Bible).

[andy jb]

nig-gtv said:

I have just had mine re-cored (and took the opportunity to get an upgraded 4 core for a few extra ££. Went for a re-core as I wasnt confident of being able to buy the right Land Rover one.. TVR probably just fitted whatever they could get hold of at the time! It wasnt leaking but was beginning to look a bit ropey, the re-core looks like new - all stripped down, repainted etc. Removed it and refitted it no problems (bonnet doesnt need to be removed as is suggested in the Bible).

Sounds ideal, i'm not sure an Ali is worth the extra, i have no other probelms with temperatures even on track.

Where did you have this recore done and how much did it cost if you don't mind sharing the data ?

I would be interested to see how you removed it from a Chim without removing the bonnet as i can only just reach the tank without distorting my body !!

[spend]

Just lift & tilt back as you lift (once the bottom hose has cleared the body box section) so you can rest it onto the exhaust, lift over the wings as a separate operation IYSWIM. Its easier 2 handed, but I manage it quite easily on my own.. Rad is not very heavy as long as you have got all the coolant out. If its a bit too heavy for you - strip the fans off as well (personally leave them in to stop scraping the fins).

Dave

[peebee]

To remove the fans (on a '98 model) I presume that you undo the two bolts on the top but are there some others on the bottom?

[V8 GRF]

I had mine recored with a triple core. It's about a third thicker than the standard and required some trimming of the fan shrouds to fit.
It's seriously efficient, 10 degree drop across the the rad from inlet to outlet.

£185 +VAT from these guys www.motorradiators.co.uk/

No need to go and spend £400 on an alloy radiator which probably IMO will be no better.

[spend]

peebee said:

To remove the fans (on a '98 model) I presume that you undo the two bolts on the top but are there some others on the bottom?

Yes, pretty symetrical IIRC, can be undone thru the grill - easy enough with a ratcheting spanner(unless they have got seized up - God I love copper slip ) under the rad. Its much easier than on the Griff apparently

Dave

PS: Dont forget to fettle the front chassis earths while the rads out.

[peebee]

Thanks Dave. And thanks for the fettling tip.

[nig-gtv]

The fans are an ar*se to remove thanks to the two bolts for each which are at the base of the radiator - but as per the advice above they dont actually need to be removed to get the rad out.

All you need to do is undo the 13" nuts to each side of the rad, unplug the coolant temp sensor and connectors to the fans, unbolt the expansion bottle from the inner wing and move it out of the way, then undo the lower and upper hoses and allow the water to drain out. You should then be able to lift the radiator upwards whilst tilting it backwards.... from memory I pushed the rad as far to the drivers side as possible and then lifted the passenger side clear. This was on a facelift 1998 car, but assume it'll be the same on all. It is far easier with two people. Putting it back in afterwards is easier though, thanks to the benefit of gravity!

I got a 4-core upgrade rather then 3-core, but the way they did it didnt need any fettling of anything. It was done by a place up here in Edinburgh so dont think it'll be much help to you unfortunately.

Edited by nig-gtv on Tuesday 8th May 19:12

[peebee]

Probably a daft question, but I don't know anything about recoring radiators, what is three core and four core and is a standard rad single or double core?

[andy jb]

If you look at the core you have thin pipes inside which the water is carried surrounded by cooling fins. The number of cores is the number of pipes across the depth of the radiator. So usually increasing the number of cores increases the depth or alternatively you may also find that a higher core density has a more delicate structure (more prone to damage). Also possible higher core density has finer pipe bores which may become blocked more easily - this is especially important on older vehicles which may have some residual corrosion deposits in the system even after flushing.

Unless you have a cooling issue I would fit same as standard. I will be sticking to o/e design

[peebee]

Thanks Andy, sorry to have hi-jacked your original thread!

[BatleyBoy]

Andy JB said:

I would appreciate some views based on your experience of radiators options:-

The pressure in my 500 can be heard escaping after a run and leaks when theres no pressure in the system, therefore, time to consider my options:-

Recore to x3
Exchange
Alloy replacement

Any views on cost and options experiences welcome. Any Midlands based suppliers/indies also very useful

Andy. Had a copper recore done on my Chim 500. Cost £130 plus VAT. Most cost effective solution in my opinion.

[that daddy]

BatleyBoy said:

Andy JB said:

I would appreciate some views based on your experience of radiators options:-

The pressure in my 500 can be heard escaping after a run and leaks when theres no pressure in the system, therefore, time to consider my options:-

Recore to x3
Exchange
Alloy replacement

Any views on cost and options experiences welcome. Any Midlands based suppliers/indies also very useful

Andy. Had a copper recore done on my Chim 500. Cost £130 plus VAT. Most cost effective solution in my opinion.

Yes i would agree with that, cant see the point in change to a ally rad unless your racing the thing or have a very breathed on motor.