U-Joints ok, still rear wheel movement
Discussion
Just replaced the U-joints on one of the half shafts. I do still have rear wheel 'wobble' (only when when the wheel is lifted and rocked at top/bottom position)- it is a bit less then before but expected to have none now. Do I need to replace the rear wheel bearings as well to get rid of that? Would be a surprise as I have no specific wheel bearing noise or other symptoms to indicate problems.
And I have a same type of rear wheel 'wobble' on the other side, and can't find (see) problems with the U-joints on that side.
Any tips/information appreciated. I am not in a hurry, I only need the wedge for a long drive (about 700km) coming weekend......
Rob
And I have a same type of rear wheel 'wobble' on the other side, and can't find (see) problems with the U-joints on that side.
Any tips/information appreciated. I am not in a hurry, I only need the wedge for a long drive (about 700km) coming weekend......
Rob
Rob, I have EXACTLY the same thing.
The MoT garage begrudgingly passed it.
The wheel rim moves by about 2mm 12oclock/6oclock. They reckoned it might be wear in the diff output bearings.
They also told me that there was NO RUNNING CLEARANCE in Hardy Spicer UJs, as they are the highest quality you can get (I had just replaced them all). Well, they are wrong. All bearings need running clearances, as illustrated in the Zeus engineering databook. I couldnt be arsed to talk about limits and fits, as they probably wouldnt have understood.
The running clearance in the UJs is all I can put the slight play down to.
Like yours, my rear wheels are dead solid when rocked left/right.
Dont worry about it unless its much more than a couple of millimetres.
Ed.
The MoT garage begrudgingly passed it.
The wheel rim moves by about 2mm 12oclock/6oclock. They reckoned it might be wear in the diff output bearings.
They also told me that there was NO RUNNING CLEARANCE in Hardy Spicer UJs, as they are the highest quality you can get (I had just replaced them all). Well, they are wrong. All bearings need running clearances, as illustrated in the Zeus engineering databook. I couldnt be arsed to talk about limits and fits, as they probably wouldnt have understood.
The running clearance in the UJs is all I can put the slight play down to.
Like yours, my rear wheels are dead solid when rocked left/right.
Dont worry about it unless its much more than a couple of millimetres.
Ed.
You could try re-torquing the hub nut to remove the play if you think it's excessive. Mark the position of the split pin in paint at the end of the stub axle. If the hub nut moves when you retorque it then you can drill it through that line and won't make an extra hole in the stub axle. Personally I retorque to 140 lbf, which is lower than the original installation torque, but the bearings have bedded in by now.
Thanks for the replies.
A-frame bushes are rock solid, both sides.
Will take it for a testdrive and see. But difficult to judge, as only done UJs at one side until now.
Today will have a look for movement at the diff. Hopefully this is not the problem as then I am in serious trouble.
Rob
A-frame bushes are rock solid, both sides.
Will take it for a testdrive and see. But difficult to judge, as only done UJs at one side until now.
Today will have a look for movement at the diff. Hopefully this is not the problem as then I am in serious trouble.
Rob
Discovered a bad Ujoint, working on replacing both then all done. Just had one where the new UJ didn't want to go in! All 4 I bought are the same, so even the half shafts on a TVR are unique: even left and right on the same car.
Torqued up the serious nut, and was able to nearly eliminate the remaining play on the side already done. That was a really good tip, thanks. Still weird, as I had marked the position to check regularly if it is in the original position: the mark was still ok.... Probably within the next couple of months it will be required to have a look at the rear wheel bearings.
Plan to finish the work at the rear tomorrow and will take any other work from the testdrive there after.
Rob
Torqued up the serious nut, and was able to nearly eliminate the remaining play on the side already done. That was a really good tip, thanks. Still weird, as I had marked the position to check regularly if it is in the original position: the mark was still ok.... Probably within the next couple of months it will be required to have a look at the rear wheel bearings.
Plan to finish the work at the rear tomorrow and will take any other work from the testdrive there after.
Rob
YAHOO.... Replaced UJs on other side, tightend the large nut and everything is back to at least as good as new. Went for a testdrive and no cloncks, not even during arse-out action/hard breaking/tight cornering. Checked again for play in both rear wheels and there is a bit, but this is probably required for the rear wheel bearings and differential play: all is very tight now! And handling feels superb.
Thanks again for the tips, and shows that you always get handy advice and that you can learn (even when you had nearly all parts on a wedge in your own hands).
Lots of driving and enjoyment: weekend, here we come.
It will rain in the benelux but the top will be down, and the noise will be roaring good.
Hope you all will have a nice wedge weekend as well (except reverend, as he is probably still spraying his SEAC in an 'the perfect'unknown colour...)
Rob
Thanks again for the tips, and shows that you always get handy advice and that you can learn (even when you had nearly all parts on a wedge in your own hands).
Lots of driving and enjoyment: weekend, here we come.
It will rain in the benelux but the top will be down, and the noise will be roaring good.
Hope you all will have a nice wedge weekend as well (except reverend, as he is probably still spraying his SEAC in an 'the perfect'unknown colour...)
Rob
rev-erend said:
Not much of a weekend for me - I'm off to America on Sunday (business) so a wasted day for me...
The colour - well it's finished.
I thought it;'s about time the two tone paint jobs made a come back - light brown and dark brown .. just like they had on the Austin Allegro (Class)
The colour - well it's finished.
I thought it;'s about time the two tone paint jobs made a come back - light brown and dark brown .. just like they had on the Austin Allegro (Class)
I hope you have twin Orange stipes separating the browns also?
Classy.
Can't wait to see it.
rev-erend said:
Not much of a weekend for me - I'm off to America on Sunday (business) so a wasted day for me...
The colour - well it's finished.
I thought it;'s about time the two tone paint jobs made a come back - light brown and dark brown .. just like they had on the Austin Allegro (Class)
The colour - well it's finished.
I thought it;'s about time the two tone paint jobs made a come back - light brown and dark brown .. just like they had on the Austin Allegro (Class)
Alan,
Telepathy : I think I owned a two tone Allegro (must have been drunk, fvery drwunk - even owned 3 at the same time for a month or so!).
Have you started a BBWF lottery on your colour yet? Liked the brg you had, and still have that colour on my wedge and won't change.
Hope you get the SEAC as you want. I was already a monster, and it will stay a monster isn't it? Or will it go all girly like in two tone shocking pink ;-). Would be quite a shock to the audience.
Wasted days for business travel, I understand too well, had too many of these and am trying to 'cut down' at the moment, even do a 'home office' now from time to time.
Rob
350zwelgje said:
Torqued up the serious nut, and was able to nearly eliminate the remaining play on the side already done. That was a really good tip, thanks. Still weird, as I had marked the position to check regularly if it is in the original position: the mark was still ok.... Probably within the next couple of months it will be required to have a look at the rear wheel bearings.
Rob
Rob
This is quite normal. The bearings at the rear have negligible capacity to absorb wear. As the balls bed into the bearing surface and wear it down you will get more and more play in the rear. This is why you can retorque the hub nut even though it hasn't moved.
Reading between the lines it sounds like you haven't got a split pin in there (or else why would you mark it in the first place?) I would seriously suggest you drill it and install one on each side.
350zwelgje said:
rev-erend said:
Not much of a weekend for me - I'm off to America on Sunday (business) so a wasted day for me...
The colour - well it's finished.
I thought it;'s about time the two tone paint jobs made a come back - light brown and dark brown .. just like they had on the Austin Allegro (Class)
The colour - well it's finished.
I thought it;'s about time the two tone paint jobs made a come back - light brown and dark brown .. just like they had on the Austin Allegro (Class)
Alan,
Telepathy : I think I owned a two tone Allegro (must have been drunk, fvery drwunk - even owned 3 at the same time for a month or so!).
Have you started a BBWF lottery on your colour yet? Liked the brg you had, and still have that colour on my wedge and won't change.
Hope you get the SEAC as you want. I was already a monster, and it will stay a monster isn't it? Or will it go all girly like in two tone shocking pink ;-). Would be quite a shock to the audience.
Wasted days for business travel, I understand too well, had too many of these and am trying to 'cut down' at the moment, even do a 'home office' now from time to time.
Rob
Never was over keen on the BRG myself .. bit to quiet.
I do like a SEAC to stand out and be noticed.. I like the sound of Wee mans idea with the orange. Thats next
Going away on business to America has one big advantage - everything here is so cheap.
I've got some goodies sitting on my desk :
2 * 4 into 1 collectors
2 * venturi reducer cones (exhaust part)
8 * 30lbs injectors ($280) .. wow
Wideband lambda sensor and controller with lcd display
plus an exhaust gas temp sensor..
ed_crouch said:
Rev,
Where'd you get the lambda unit from?? I might have a forage next time Im over there...
Ed.
Where'd you get the lambda unit from?? I might have a forage next time Im over there...
Ed.
I bought it from zeitronix.. but it's not just a lambda it the controller and a exhaust temp probe and a bunch of bungs for these to mount in the exhaust..
Pricey but much cheaper than in the UK and top quality kit.
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