Changing Rear Shocks ??

[simonV8ster]

I've got to change my rear shocks soon, does the rear suspension have to be removed i.e. take both wishbones off or can the shock and spring be removed leaving them in place ??

Having not closely examined it yet is the spring already compressed on the damper ??

Any tips on removal ??

[cln1]

No need to remove wishbones

Colin.

[spend]

Just jack it up & pop the wheel off.

Dave

[overhere]

My suggestion is to change all four, the factory set-up is not great, and not adjustable, and if you change one end it will just expose the weakness of the other end. IMHO the best cost vs. performance option is Gaz, I've just had them fitted (well a few months ago) and it really does transform the handling. £753 all in, fitting, geometry and tracking. Nitron if you feel flush are supposed to be the best, double the cost for budget reasons, it might be less depending on the dealer.

[Jay Ayegees]

There's a full set on ebay at present starting at 250 pounds I think.

Jay

[s7paul]

As spend says, take the wheel off and all will be revealed. If you have standard unadjustable shocks on at present, then yes, the spring is under some compression. However, if you're changing the complete unit this isn't an issue as you won't need to disturb the springs.

[barreti]

Very, very simple job. We did a secret masterclass on changing a rear shock at the TVR meet at Chatsworth last month because poor old Jefsy was dragging his arse on the floor all the way there. Mind you, with the amount he put away at lunchtime we should have put a couple of JCB shocks in there
It took about 45 mins from parking to driving off to do one side.

[spend]

Just a warning, if they are adjustable you can wind the preload off, if they are originals

You should really compress the spring, but its fine to let them 'POP' off as long as you are aware when you pull the bolt out ~ and keep you & stray tools out of harms way.

Most of us forget - the non-adjustables only come off once (not too many replace them with kind)

Dave

[barreti]

spend said:

Just a warning, if they are adjustable you can wind the preload off, if they are originals

You should really compress the spring, but its fine to let them 'POP' off as long as you are aware when you pull the bolt out
Dave

I don't understand this Dave, providing you've jacked the car up on the main chassis rails there won't be any load on the spring. You can just undo the top and bottom bolts and pull the thing off, no need to worry about load on the spring that I can think of.

[simonb9]

spend said:

Just a warning, if they are adjustable you can wind the preload off, if they are originals

You should really compress the spring, but its fine to let them 'POP' off as long as you are aware when you pull the bolt out ~ and keep you & stray tools out of harms way.

Most of us forget - the non-adjustables only come off once (not too many replace them with kind) Dave

When you say they only come off once what does this mean ?? I've got a pair of rear Bilsteins that have only done 10K miles and are in good nick so I was going to replace my knackered AVOs. When I got the car it had new Bilsteins on the front so these would make a good match.

[spend]

barreti said:

I don't understand this Dave, providing you've jacked the car up on the main chassis rails there won't be any load on the spring.

Depending on the spring there may still be some load on the spring (even if it is just to keep it seated at full extent) ~ it can be enough to nasty damage to fingers / flick tools into eyes... It was just a word of warning (my good deed for the day - I can be bad now )

Dave

[spend]

simonb9 said:

When you say they only come off once what does this mean ?? I've got a pair of rear Bilsteins that have only done 10K miles and are in good nick so I was going to replace my knackered AVOs. When I got the car it had new Bilsteins on the front so these would make a good match.

I figured it was fairly obvious, but... Most folks are removing non-adjustables to upgrade to shiny new adjustables (factory non-adjustables are mega costly ~ so its generally a no-brainer to upgrade). There are a few who replace with non-adjustables - I was just pointing out that most reports of this kind of work describe just easing the platform down so there is nno stored energy in the spring...

Dave

[simonV8ster]

Thanks Dave - I see what you mean now, you're saying they only come off once as people replace with adjustables rather than they only come off once from a technical point of view (which is where I was getting confused ) Got it !!

If I had the money I would replace with a set of decent shocks/springs but currently just want to get back on the road to get through the summer so non-adjustables will have to go back on. As they have just arrived I can see that the spring is already on the shock so will be straight forward to fit.

Which are the rear springs - TVR D 0103 (Yellow) or TVR C 0098 (Red) ??

Cheers

[s7paul]

simonV8ster said:

Thanks Dave - I see what you mean now, you're saying they only come off once as people replace with adjustables rather than they only come off once from a technical point of view (which is where I was getting confused ) Got it !!

If I had the money I would replace with a set of decent shocks/springs but currently just want to get back on the road to get through the summer so non-adjustables will have to go back on. As they have just arrived I can see that the spring is already on the shock so will be straight forward to fit.

Which are the rear springs - TVR D 0103 (Yellow) or TVR C 0098 (Red) ??

Cheers

Mine still has the original shocks on the front, and the springs are red, so by a process of elimination....

[simonV8ster]

Thought it would be a piece of p*ss..........

Haven't even managed to get one off yet despite a couple of hours in the garage

I've got the bottom bolt out (eventually) and got the top nut off but, the top bolt will turn (gradually) but won't unwind, it just stays in the same position.

Any ideas as to how to get it out or whats stopping it coming out ?? If I can turn it (just) it can't be rusted onto the inside of the bush.

Edited by simonV8ster on Saturday 12th May 15:12

[simonV8ster]

I now know whats up.......the bolt has rusted to the inside of the bush as when I turn the bolt head I can see the bush moving around. How the hell do I get out of this ?? Soaked it in WD40 and pushed it back into the garage defeated.......

[mt10argyll]

You will have to drift it out with a
smaller bolt or grab the bolt head with
mole grips if poss and tap it out with
hammer

[the gazman]

Yep they can be a bar steward to get out and sometimes we have to cut them off.
I give a spray with a product called Rostoff, leave em for a bit and they generally crack and I can get them out with an air rachet but if not it's cut them off time.

[the gazman]

mt10argyll said:

You will have to drift it out with a
smaller bolt or grab the bolt head with
mole grips if poss and tap it out with
hammer

This can sometimes work but unfortunately the rubber bush absorbs the blows.

[mt10argyll]

Glad you replied Gazman bit off topic
but any chance you could let me know
geometry settings for chim 98 400
road and some track days sorry for
hijack