HEEELP!! Sticking on a second hand front end ADVISE NEEDED
Discussion
I am repairing a damage TVR Chimaera and am having to remove the front end. My friend who own a very good bodyshop is repairing it for me and has already cut away most of the nasty stuff. The task now is to final check the alignment of the front and a stick it on!!
The question asked is what is the best way to do this. He has a full fibre glass kit inc matting etc but wonders if there is anyone experienced out there who has a suggeestions or do nots before we go ahead and stick her back together, sounds easy eh!! He is very competant but has asked me to make sure there are'nt any major donts or anything that will make the task a little easier.
Thanks to all who helped on getting it started, it runs like a dream. Cant wait to go and have a play.
Cheers
Simon.
The question asked is what is the best way to do this. He has a full fibre glass kit inc matting etc but wonders if there is anyone experienced out there who has a suggeestions or do nots before we go ahead and stick her back together, sounds easy eh!! He is very competant but has asked me to make sure there are'nt any major donts or anything that will make the task a little easier.
Thanks to all who helped on getting it started, it runs like a dream. Cant wait to go and have a play.
Cheers
Simon.
Edited by shuntridge on Tuesday 15th May 14:03
I'm not an expert (I'm actually having some minor front end repairs done at the moment) but I was told that a major issue often seen is that the wheel arches are not kept the correct size when a new front is put on. This happens when the join is made across the front wings at the top of the wheel arch. If the wheel arches are created too long then they look strange. If they are created too short then the wheels can rub when steering lock is applied. Probably best to get a correct measurement for the length of a front wheelarch. My car is in the garage so can't help - sorry.
Fraid I can't help with your question but wanted to tell you you've got a great looking set of wheels!! Do you know what they are? Also do you know what the car hit before you bought it to wind up looking like that? I mean was it another vechile or a piece of the scenery?
Lots of luck with the rebuild. You'll find THE best help on this forum with virtually every question you may have - except the one "Can I have my money back please?"
Lots of luck with the rebuild. You'll find THE best help on this forum with virtually every question you may have - except the one "Can I have my money back please?"

Professional GRP repair is a specialist area, and it's difficult to get excellent results. From what little I know, you need to take the time to align the panels precisely, using eye, templates, measurement - whatever. They bolt the panels firmly in place using brackets (fabricated as needed). Only when they are rigidly and precisely located can you grind away the areas to be joined to allow you to lay up enough GRP to hold the new section on (and provide crash strength etc). Some would leave the brackets in place for strength - I guess a purist would remove them. The actual lay-up technique building up of gel coat is important as you don't want bubbles or occlusions which will apear when you sand the join down. Also, it's very easy to get a great looking result, which doesn't look so great 6 months later when the filler has sunk, leaving the repair visible.
I'd advise getting a decent book on GRP technique or even attending a specialist training course - this is something you want to get right, or you'll be wasting your time.
Good luck though - it'll be worth it, and very satisfying.
Edited for two more things:
1) Cracks in GRP travel a l-o-n-g way. What seems like minor damage can lead to cracks propogating way beyond the impact area. Make sure you cut out (or at least grind out) ALL the damage. From the look of all that duct tape on your car the crack propogation could be quite extensive.
2) Don't let any water near the damaged GRP or the unsealed repair. If you get water in the GRP matrix it'll swell and delamintate in time.
I'd advise getting a decent book on GRP technique or even attending a specialist training course - this is something you want to get right, or you'll be wasting your time.
Good luck though - it'll be worth it, and very satisfying.
Edited for two more things:
1) Cracks in GRP travel a l-o-n-g way. What seems like minor damage can lead to cracks propogating way beyond the impact area. Make sure you cut out (or at least grind out) ALL the damage. From the look of all that duct tape on your car the crack propogation could be quite extensive.
2) Don't let any water near the damaged GRP or the unsealed repair. If you get water in the GRP matrix it'll swell and delamintate in time.
Edited by griffter on Wednesday 16th May 07:29
Edited by griffter on Wednesday 16th May 07:30
Give Julian a ring at Fibreon (www.damagedtvrs.co.uk) 01384 262211 and he will talk you through the process of fitting the nose and bonnet as he has fitted over 300 different body panels to all types of tvrs in the last 8 years so he should be able to help you,
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