Radiator Removal

[Flintstone]

Before starting work I read and re-read The Bible and searched every topic I could find in here on radiator removal.

So why can't I get the bloody thing out?

All hoses are off, fans disconnected, expansion tank removed. I can't remove the fans because the bottom bolts are corroded and I can't get a socket or spanner onto them so it'll have to come out in one lump. No matter which way I lift or tilt it the bottom mounting brackets become firmly wedged when I lift. I'm seriously considering cutting the bloody thing in half (the rad, not the car).

Suggestions anyone?

[spend]

You have to lift it straight up until the lugs clear the mounts - just sounds like they are stuck in the rubber. Try pouring a kettle of hot water over the bottom of the rad, wood may help levering the bottom ofthe rad up.

Dave

[peebee]

Paul, I did this last Sunday and turned the air blue trying to get it out! Like you I tried this way and that. Just as I was about to give up I lifted the off side up high and twisted it around and out it came - I really don't know how but it is possible even when it seems impossible!

Got the rad back from being recored this morning and have re-fitted it tonight - it went in far easier than it came out.

Sorry I can't tell you how to get it out but I can reassure you that it's possible (isn't it annoying when all the topics on this seem to say how easy it is!)

Edited by peebee on Wednesday 16th May 21:23

[Flintstone]

Spend. Lugs not a problem, cleared those easily.

peebee, thanks. I'll have another run at it tomorrow when I'm fresh. Single handed and in the pissing rain (today) was possibly not the best way to go about it

[spend]

Flintstone said:

Spend. Lugs not a problem, cleared those easily.

Err... If you've cleared them - there is nothing holding the rad in...

2 bolts to the brackets on the side, then 2 lugs sit in rubber mounts at the bottom ?

Dave

[nig-gtv]

Some advice (including mine!) on this thread: www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=388450&r=5369695&hm=38030#5369695

[Flintstone]

spend said:

Flintstone said:

Spend. Lugs not a problem, cleared those easily.

Err... If you've cleared them - there is nothing holding the rad in...

2 bolts to the brackets on the side, then 2 lugs sit in rubber mounts at the bottom ?

Dave

Nothing holding it. The bloody thing just won't lift out. The mounting brackets keep fouling the inner sills. As peebee said maybe it needs pushing to one side and twisting. We'll see.

[spend]

Most of the rads seem to have the brackets trimmed down at the sides... Yours must have been interesting to get in unlucky really... Just cut the edge off the brackets when you get it out - leaving enough for the bolt hole.

Dave

[Flintstone]

spend said:

Most of the rads seem to have the brackets trimmed down at the sides... Yours must have been interesting to get in unlucky really... Just cut the edge off the brackets when you get it out - leaving enough for the bolt hole.

Dave

You read my mind.

[victormeldrew]

That's what I did - getting the original out left some gouges in the inner wings, when I fitted the replacement I cut down the tabs for ease of access.

I think they must must have fitted them before the body at the factory, but a body lift just to get the rad out cleanly is a bit much!

[tvr keith]

Removed the rad on my mates Chim.
Top tip is to put a couple of layers of gaffa tape on the body beside the lugs so you don't gouge it.
Managed to get it out and back in without removing the bonnet or removing the fans, but you need two people to do it.
As has already been said, grind the lugs down a bit to assist refitting

[Flintstone]

After wasting an hour yesterday it took about 40 seconds with another pair of hands

The bottom fan bolts are well and truly corroded though, looks like a job for my angle grinder

[Flintstone]

Got the new one and I have to say I'm pretty pissed off at the quality of the finish. It's been painted with black gloss and although the fins are protected with sheets of board the rest of it has been scratched so I'll have to rub it back and repaint the ends, top and bottom.


Honestly, if you want anything done properly..............................

[Flintstone]

Follow up question.

After fitting the new rad I followed the procedure outlined in the Bible for refilling the cooling system. Slight problem though in that I couldn't get the top off the swirl tank.

Instead I disconnected the top hose into the swirl tank and filled it from there. Trouble is this will leave an air gap of about 1-2" at the top of the swirl tank. According to the Bible the last step in refilling is to unscrew the swirl tank top and fill it to the top.

How big a deal is this? I'm hoping to have the top off eventually using BFI but until I can get a tool that's a snug fit (previous 'experts' have distorted the ends of the slot) and maybe heat the top/tank with a heat gun will it be ok to drive around?

[spend]

A kettle is an essential tool in the garage Not only for the brew, but hot water seems to scare alloy just enough to allow threads to turn very often

Dave

[victormeldrew]

A large screwdriver is useful, laid in the slot and used as a lever. Check Steve Heaths allen plug to avoid future problems!

[Flintstone]

victormeldrew said:

A large screwdriver is useful, laid in the slot and used as a lever. Check Steve Heaths allen plug to avoid future problems!

Large screwdriver doesn't work due to aforementioned nurgling of the slot by previous fettlers.

[peebee]

The slot is so big I used the shaft of a ring spanner laid across the top of the swirl pot. Worked fine and gave more leverage than a screwdriver can give.