What's worth doing while the heater box is out?

[F.C.]

Well I'm truly FD after getting to grips with the heater blower box.
What a joke I'll not be putting it back the same way it came out!
I'm going to fit some "pop" nuts on the blower mounting plate so you don't need to get at both sides to remove the blower in the future, also fabricating an easily removable "lid" to give instant access to the blower for easy removal.
So while the heater box is out is there anything worthwhile doing before it goes back in?
I need some DECENT flexible spiral duct to replace the stuff thats on at the moment any one know where to get such an item?

Any sensible suggestions are welcome.
F.C.

[alex s]

I used some of this when i did the tunnel cooling mod. Much better quality than the standard stuff.
www.revotec.com/flexibleducting/flexducting.htm

Also I do know Gary at Crazy horses does a stainless plate ( already bent ) to replace the blower cover, though not sure on cost....

HTH

[F.C.]

alex s said:

I used some of this when i did the tunnel cooling mod. Much better quality than the standard stuff.
www.revotec.com/flexibleducting/flexducting.htm

Also I do know Gary at Crazy horses does a stainless plate ( already bent ) to replace the blower cover, though not sure on cost....

HTH

Thanks for the tip that IS exactly the hose I'm looking for!
F.C.

[alex s]

F.C. said:

alex s said:

I used some of this when i did the tunnel cooling mod. Much better quality than the standard stuff.
www.revotec.com/flexibleducting/flexducting.htm

Also I do know Gary at Crazy horses does a stainless plate ( already bent ) to replace the blower cover, though not sure on cost....

HTH

Thanks for the tip that IS exactly the hose I'm looking for!
F.C.

I still have a couple of meters left if you want to save a bit of cash..pm if interested.
Cheers
Alex

[mgbond]

alex s said:

I used some of this when i did the tunnel cooling mod. Much better quality than the standard stuff.
www.revotec.com/flexibleducting/flexducting.htm

Also I do know Gary at Crazy horses does a stainless plate ( already bent ) to replace the blower cover, though not sure on cost....

HTH

You can also get stuff from these guys:

www.carbuildersolutions.co.uk/

Bondy

[D_G]

Hi Tony,

I had someone to hold the other side when I took mine out, the only thing I'm doing is putting some underseal on the crossbar under the heater box for a bit of extra protection.
Worst bit was splitting the heater box...

Dave

[F.C.]

D_G said:

Hi Tony,

I had someone to hold the other side when I took mine out, the only thing I'm doing is putting some underseal on the crossbar under the heater box for a bit of extra protection.
Worst bit was splitting the heater box...

Dave

Tell me about it, what a piece of ST surely there must be a heater box from another car that could have been used!
I'm going to run a duct into the central tunnel to stop the gearstick getting hot when the windows are open
F.C.

[obes]

Definitely worth running some cooling into/down the tunnel

[NobleGuy]

F.C. said:

Well I'm truly FD after getting to grips with the heater blower box.
What a joke I'll not be putting it back the same way it came out!

Crap innnit? Satisfying when it finally pops off though .

Sorry about the shameless resurrection of this thread, but I've just got the heater box off (not working so might as well) and am trying to now direct some air into the tunnel. Problem is the plate guarding the tunnel is metal and the four screws that hold it in place are either jammed in or too awkwardly placed to get to.

Question is, I'm assuming others have cut the plate it situ, but what with? My back is already broken in half from my fun this morning....

Also, has anyone used alternative bolts to secure a/the heater back in place? If so, what and where can I find some? Thanks .

Oh, forgot. Is there an easy way to test if the heater box is my issue - getting a blown fuse and the aircon has been regassed first to check if it was simply low. Garage that did a bit of diagnostics concluded that it was most likely the heater fan. I'm pretty sure the matrix still works as I get warm air (slowly) when on hot, and cooler air when set to cold. Is the best thing to do replace the fuse, then plug in the heater to see if the fuse goes?

Edited by NobleGuy on Sunday 3rd February 13:15

[sean_goodman]

leave the fan unplugged, put new fuse in and check vehicle electrical systems, lights fans etc. then plug heater fan back in and see if fuse blows

gonna take my heater box out soon to do the tunnel mod also

[peterguk]

sean_goodman said:

leave the fan unplugged, put new fuse in and check vehicle electrical systems, lights fans etc. then plug heater fan back in and see if fuse blows

My fan has stopped working. Which fuse, and can the motor be got at without dismantling the heater box?

[NobleGuy]

sean_goodman said:

leave the fan unplugged, put new fuse in and check vehicle electrical systems, lights fans etc. then plug heater fan back in and see if fuse blows

gonna take my heater box out soon to do the tunnel mod also

Put fuses back in, started car, and bang. Fuse 12. Usually takes 11 with it (book says both are heating/aircon related.

[steve1]

Have you got your A/C on or off when the fuses blow?

[AMG Merc]

In response to this thread title...

Put plasters on your hands!

[Adrian W]

In the left side of the heater box just behind the wiper motor bracket there is a litle cover behind this there is a resister module,this is how Noble chose to control the fan speeds, check none are broken.

[NobleGuy]

I tried both.

I noticed the associated relay (top right hand corner one) is brown and has a slightly different diagram on it (it's got two lines going off the switch - I'm not really up on this kind of thing so it may be an equivalent way to represent the same thing. I've also got blue and black ones - the black are 12V, 30a and the blue 12V, 20/30a. I've drawn the diagrams on each colour relay and what colours are plugged where in my fuse box:

http://www.p3jfk.com/Car/Fuses.JPG

Can anyone spot anything awry?

I know I pulled out a few of these relays months ago when my starter motor fuse blew, so it could be that they're not back in the correct positions .

[NobleGuy]

Adrian W said:

In the left side of the heater box just behind the wiper motor bracket there is a litle cover behind this there is a resister module,this is how Noble chose to control the fan speeds, check none are broken.

Taken off the cover to reveal a thre-wired assembly that has a red, yellow and grey wire - the grey one may have come out as I pulled the cover off, but the connector looks separated - maybe this is the issue - although why would the fuse still blow in the cockpit if the heater isn't even connected to the car anymore?