Bleeding air from coolant system
Discussion
Morning All
Having all sorts of problems getting a reading from my gauge, and am pretty convinced I may be the victim of an air lock and was wondering if there are any tips in erradicating surplus air.
Checks so far
Gauge reads to the max if earthed out
Getting 6.4 v from the gauge at the spade connector
Sender increases resistance as it cools. Do not have cold and normal readings yet (todays job), but it read 800 ohms when warm and was getting greater up to 1300 ohms as it cooled (and I lost interest).
Removed the bung from the blanked off tube by the ECU temp sender to try to erradicate any trapped air
Topped up the system 3 times as some air was found (no apparant leaks)
Squeezed the life out of the bottom and top hoses to shift any air
Sworn at it (many times)
Been driven a few times to allow Themostat to open and hopefully release any trapped air
Heater on HOT and both pipes appear to be passing coolant
Top hose gets hot and rad appears to be doing it's job
Gonna get a 120 Ohm variable resitor today as a fall back plan, and will connect to the spare Land Rover sender
Pretty hacked off with the whole affair, as I've been without the Griff for 3 months due to engine rebuild and now just want to drive it everywhere, but reluctant to do more than 5-10 miles due to not being able to monitor the situation.
Any further tips greatfully received, before I take a hammer to all related parts.
Cheers
Moose
Having all sorts of problems getting a reading from my gauge, and am pretty convinced I may be the victim of an air lock and was wondering if there are any tips in erradicating surplus air.
Checks so far
Gauge reads to the max if earthed out
Getting 6.4 v from the gauge at the spade connector
Sender increases resistance as it cools. Do not have cold and normal readings yet (todays job), but it read 800 ohms when warm and was getting greater up to 1300 ohms as it cooled (and I lost interest).
Removed the bung from the blanked off tube by the ECU temp sender to try to erradicate any trapped air
Topped up the system 3 times as some air was found (no apparant leaks)
Squeezed the life out of the bottom and top hoses to shift any air
Sworn at it (many times)
Been driven a few times to allow Themostat to open and hopefully release any trapped air
Heater on HOT and both pipes appear to be passing coolant
Top hose gets hot and rad appears to be doing it's job
Gonna get a 120 Ohm variable resitor today as a fall back plan, and will connect to the spare Land Rover sender
Pretty hacked off with the whole affair, as I've been without the Griff for 3 months due to engine rebuild and now just want to drive it everywhere, but reluctant to do more than 5-10 miles due to not being able to monitor the situation.
Any further tips greatfully received, before I take a hammer to all related parts.
Cheers
Moose
Moose,
I went through the same agony a few months ago: could not get the coolant level to stabilise, heard faint gurgling noises when I switch the car off (when hot).
Bled the system, topped up swirl pot, checked for leaks etc, but was finally cured when Tower View found a weeping radiator at the last 12k service.
Replaced the rad and all solved now.
Henk
I went through the same agony a few months ago: could not get the coolant level to stabilise, heard faint gurgling noises when I switch the car off (when hot).
Bled the system, topped up swirl pot, checked for leaks etc, but was finally cured when Tower View found a weeping radiator at the last 12k service.
Replaced the rad and all solved now.
Henk
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