MOT failure - hand brake (sic)
Discussion
Hi,
I've just taken my Tam for an MOT and sadly it failed
. But it was only a minor fault 
.
The hand break isn’t working properly (but do they ever??). Apparently, the off-side brake isn’t working, the near-side is ok.
Does anyone have experience of this and know how I can sort it out, or how to adjust the hand break generally??
Any help would be most appreciated.
Thanks.
I've just taken my Tam for an MOT and sadly it failed
. But it was only a minor fault . The hand break isn’t working properly (but do they ever??). Apparently, the off-side brake isn’t working, the near-side is ok.
Does anyone have experience of this and know how I can sort it out, or how to adjust the hand break generally??
Any help would be most appreciated.
Thanks.
I don’t think they knew themselves. They muttered about it possibly being a problem at the break end but said they would have to check as it could be any number of things. And at 80 quid an hour I don’t want them to spend much time 'checking'.
Surely it cant be that complicated?? Anyway, I be fiddling with it this evening.
Surely it cant be that complicated?? Anyway, I be fiddling with it this evening.
Not an expert, but I guess if its seized operating the hand brake will not produce any corresponding movement at one wheel or the other. Could the shoes be worn? Fiddly and time consuming but not over technical on many cars. Or, maybe the shoes just need adjusting up, often by poking a screwdriver through a purpose made access in the hub and ratcheting up - usually until the wheel just starts to bind and then back off a bit. This may/may not be the case with a Tiv, though. Try sniffing around a local Indy for info, or else just leave it with them as many charge sub-£40 ph
My Tuscan failed on this year before last and it was the small operating lever on the caliper that was sticking. If it doesn´t spring back properly the adjustment ratchet inside the caliper will not take up the slack. I sorted it with careful use of WD40 and moving the lever back and forwards until it moved easily.
Rear brakes are the same as a Sierra Cosworth, so should be fixable by any half-competent mechanic.
With regards to the MoT, it's worth asking the garage to use a decelerometer instead of the rollers, which avoids any danger of damaging the LSD. It's also a lot easier to prove a TVR's handbrake works...
With regards to the MoT, it's worth asking the garage to use a decelerometer instead of the rollers, which avoids any danger of damaging the LSD. It's also a lot easier to prove a TVR's handbrake works...
Thanks for that info. I did try fiddling last night but with no success. Though I haven’t tried what you suggested, yet.
However I did find something useful that I would like to share. It is incredibly easy to adjust the tension in the hand break (very un-TVR to make something easy) so that you get the right number of 'clicks'. All you have to do is take the off-side wheel off and reach in to the chassis where you will find two wires, one with a PTFE adjustment screw. Its easier to see if you get someone to wiggle the hand break a bit. Turn it anti clock (viewed from the rear of the car) to reduce the number of clicks. 1/4 to a 1/2 turn seems to be about one click.
However I did find something useful that I would like to share. It is incredibly easy to adjust the tension in the hand break (very un-TVR to make something easy) so that you get the right number of 'clicks'. All you have to do is take the off-side wheel off and reach in to the chassis where you will find two wires, one with a PTFE adjustment screw. Its easier to see if you get someone to wiggle the hand break a bit. Turn it anti clock (viewed from the rear of the car) to reduce the number of clicks. 1/4 to a 1/2 turn seems to be about one click.
ZooOOM said:
Thanks for that info. I did try fiddling last night but with no success. Though I haven’t tried what you suggested, yet.
However I did find something useful that I would like to share. It is incredibly easy to adjust the tension in the hand break (very un-TVR to make something easy) so that you get the right number of 'clicks'. All you have to do is take the off-side wheel off and reach in to the chassis where you will find two wires, one with a PTFE adjustment screw. Its easier to see if you get someone to wiggle the hand break a bit. Turn it anti clock (viewed from the rear of the car) to reduce the number of clicks. 1/4 to a 1/2 turn seems to be about one click.
Just be aware that, if your handbrake is not working because of the caliper lever sticking, adjusting the slack out of the cable will stop it being able to return even if freed off. I know from experience. However I did find something useful that I would like to share. It is incredibly easy to adjust the tension in the hand break (very un-TVR to make something easy) so that you get the right number of 'clicks'. All you have to do is take the off-side wheel off and reach in to the chassis where you will find two wires, one with a PTFE adjustment screw. Its easier to see if you get someone to wiggle the hand break a bit. Turn it anti clock (viewed from the rear of the car) to reduce the number of clicks. 1/4 to a 1/2 turn seems to be about one click.
Top-man and good advice, too. I shall remember that myself.
I wonder if a pre-emptive spray of white lithium grease, or similar - copper slip might be safer (given the vicinity of brake pads/disc), on the adjuster might remove the need for future WD40 resto-treatment?
I wonder if a pre-emptive spray of white lithium grease, or similar - copper slip might be safer (given the vicinity of brake pads/disc), on the adjuster might remove the need for future WD40 resto-treatment?
Edited by earlyriser on Thursday 24th May 12:28
Edited by earlyriser on Thursday 24th May 12:31
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